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Different Header, Same Problem

[I'm going to take another shot at the Jet Mini msg. Google has done such a bang-up job with their new format....]

My 3+ year old Jet Mini, with thousands of hours on it, finally stopped running this afternoon. The motor gradually go slower and just about stopped. I can't say as I'm faulting it, because it has certainly paid for itself. However, this is NOT the time of year to be w/o my lathe!

Can anyone diagnose the problem, besides the obvious "the motor is dead?" I would be willing to take a stab at re-building the motor, if it only requires brushes, but beyond that would be a bit more than I'm technically capable of. As I said, the motor just suddenly started slowing down and almost came to a stop. It was somewhat hotter than it usually runs, but there was no electrical smell coming out of it.

In lieu of a re-build, would anyone know of a relatively inexpensive source for a rebuilt or new replacement motor, or even a whole lathe (Jet Mini, of course), either new or used, at something less than Amazon's price of $249. I have no dealers in my area who carry them, so would have to do everything via mail.

I have about a gazillion Christmas presents to make, as well as a bunch of comissioned pieces to turn which will enable me to buy those presents I can't turn.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

TIA

Reply to
Chuck
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Take the belt off, and see if the motor comes up to speed.

If you have an air compressor, take the ends of the motor off and blow it out.

I don't think it has brushes

Reply to
Dan Kozar

Reply to
Leif Thorvaldson

Chuck wrote: snip

Just a thought. That's got a variable speed switch, right? What if the switch just died.

Dave in Fairfax

Reply to
Dave in Fairfax

Reply to
Carl McCarty

Chuck, If it has bushings instead of bearings, try a couple of drops of oil on each end. I think don't think that the Mini has a universal motor, so it won't have brushes. Beyond that, the only quick fix would be to take the motor out and take it to a local repair place that does electric motors. If there was no smell, there's a good chance it's mechanical rather than electrical. Good luck

Ken Moon Webberville, TX ===============

Reply to
Ken Moon

For some reason, nothing I post from my ISP is showing up on Google, so none of my replies are being seen by anybody who accesses the ng here.

So, in a nutshell, I tore the motor completely apart, no brushes, no burned anything, no idea why it doesn't work, but I just went and bought a new one, since I couldn't find a new motor. Thanks for all the suggestions!

Reply to
Chuck

this is a single speed induction motor, right? I'd check the run capacitor

Reply to
william_b_noble

Yes it is, but I haven't the faintest idea how to check the capacitor. It doesn't smell and isn't particularly warm. The only sign that there was something wrong was the motor started slowing down and the lights dimmed a bit. Re-starting the motor, after a thorough cleaning, produced the same result.

Is that particular cap an expensive item to replace, should I decided to try fixing it?

Reply to
Chuck

Yes it is, but I haven't the faintest idea how to check the capacitor. It doesn't smell and isn't particularly warm. The only sign that there was something wrong was the motor started slowing down and the lights dimmed a bit. Re-starting the motor, after a thorough cleaning, produced the same result.

Is that particular cap an expensive item to replace, should I decided to try fixing it?

Reply to
Chuck

If you have an ohm meter remove the capacitor. Set the ohm meter to the highest scale. Watch the meter as you connect it to the capacitor. You should see a momentary "kick" as the capacitor charges and then the meter should drop off to zero. If you get a continuous reading the capacitor is shorted. If there's no "kick" it is most likely "open".

Typically a new capacitor should cost about $10.00 at a motor repair shop.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Reply to
Nova

Reply to
william_b_noble

I don't believe it's a capacitor-run motor, Bill. At 1/2 horse, wouldn't make a lot of sense. Manual lists only one capacitor, which I would assume is the starter.

If the motor does not spin freely by hand, bearings or gunk.

My bet is on gunk shorting internally.

Reply to
George

Not necessarily so. My $39 Chinese drill press developed similar faults. I checked for a centrifugal switch, didn't find one. Replaced the 'run' capacitor and it has been running as well as ever. (Which isn't really great! (-: ) It is cheaper to use a run capacitor than a starting capacitor and the required centrifugal switch.

Reply to
Harry B. Pye

Live and learn. I knew those Chinese motors were lightweights, now I know why.

Reply to
George

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