Dye penetration

I've put together a page showing the results of my testing on dye penetration from the recent thread.

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Maybe someday I'll get the other woodworking pages I want to do finished, and make this one look pretty. I should probably go back and test TransFast under a vacuum. Although I'm considering trying polyester resin under vacuum (set for about 3-4 day curing time) to see if that brightens the color up. I think the dark/dirty color I currently get is due to the dye not filling the voids between cell walls.

Reply to
Nobody Special
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Interesting Jason, Thanks for doing this study, although this sort of logical work can lead to disaster for rcw. Just think if we pundits had to rely on posting experimental logic and INductive instead of armchair reasoning. :)

BTW, could you put frozen blocks in your vacuum jar to partially "freeze dry", then reconstitute them with both water and alcohol diluted dye? Also re extra- vs intracellular dying, could you look at some thin slices under higher magnification?

I know liquid dishwashing detergent soaks thru Norfolk Is. pine rapidly and deeply, I never investigated, but it's probably extracellular (there goes my mistaken DEduction again) I have used LDD as a 'carrier' to color NIP by adding it to block printing inks. It worked pretty good.

Ain't I scientific! You and Leif are probably nauseated at the desecration. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Reply to
Arch

Nicely done, J. Thanks for posting results and pics of your efforts.

I may be in a position to try something different soon, as I am getting a semi commercial food vacuum sealer that the manufacturer swears will pull about 24" of pressure. I don't know about that... maybe...

But at any rate, it should work with my vacuum cannisters, and if it does I will float some wood in there for a few days under vacuum with some different dye mixes. I have found that the FoodSaver cannisters work pretty well at keeping a vacuum seal.

My current Gast setup never shuts off. It is fine for most of what I do with it (it really does pull 26"!), but it isn't a good solution for something that needs to be under vacuum for several days.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

Neither does my pump. I just put a valve inline where the hose comes through the lid. Once things stop bubbling I close the valve and leave it. A day later I still have to fight the lid off.

5 days later it's got no vacuum left.

But I figure once the blocks have sunk to into the dye the vacuum's mostly redundant.

I'll try to get some pictures and a description of my setup added to that page.

Reply to
Nobody Special

You guys are way to scientific! I have been messing about with dyes for a few years and here's my take. Apparatus. Large Mason Jars with new lid. Method. Mix a really strong batch of dye (enough to fill jar) Add about a tablespoon of white vinegar and bring to a boil. Throw in your pieces of wood. In a separate pot boil the Mason jar in clean water. Pour dye and wood into jar while still in boiling water. Screw on lid and seal. Remove from boiling water and set aside to cool. Store for about 2-3 months before use. When needed open jar and microwave wood until dry. I find fresh cut green wood will get absolutely 100% solid penetration through 2" in a few weeks. The vinegar helps but I don't know why. I use this to colour wood for turning flowers and so I don't always need 100% penetration but I never had less than 1/4" even after a few days. The vacuum is for ever, just like Mom's pickles and preserves:-) Pete

Reply to
Canchippy

In message , Canchippy writes

This is just a guess, with no scientific testing behind it.

Vinegar is used in cooking meats as it helps break down the fibres, maybe it does the same with the wood, which then allows easier dye penetration. It may also affect the boiling point of the water

Reply to
John

Put that one to rest. Flesh, with remarkably few exceptions, contains no cellulose.

Boiling point elevation and freezing point depression (for us in the salt belt) are standard chemistry.

Reply to
George

Pictures of the rig and several additional tests are up. If you look closely you can even see the rubber faucet washer that helps seal the lid of my vacuum jar.

Reply to
Nobody Special

Excellent. It looks like you have been really busy with the penetration tests. Have you decided if it is worth your time to process your own stopper blanks in lieu of purchasing?

Seems like as many as you turn you might come out ahead to fill that jar with blanks and draw a vacuum on the whole thing while full of wood blanks.

Thanks for the investigation and the pics.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

The tests are nice in that they're a low drag item. 5 minutes here and there fits in between other things.

If I really turned that many. I've probably saturated most of the market unless they take off as regatta prizes.

Pricewise, it's miles ahead to do my own. But so far the color's not as nice as I'd like.

Compare:

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The first is maple I dyed (transTint) with purpleheart, the second is commercial boxelder burl for both parts. Focusing on the color, the green in the second one is much, much nicer. But at $30 most people keep walking. Definately seems $25 is a point of serious resistance.

Hopefully I'll get some resin and do a comperable set of tests, but with better color results.

Reply to
Nobody Special

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