Goblet and Hollowing Interiors

..steep grind on a spindle gouge, that is.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch, is that steep as in bevel or as fingernail shape??

Ken Moon Webberville, TX

I try to keep a good edge on the tools. I have a white stone grinder

10 feet away, and have tried with burs and no burs, and polished with diamond stones. I don't have a jig yet, but plan to build one. My sharpened edges aren't perfect, but I think the're OK.

I currently do this.

I sometimes do this. I have also tried drilling out the majority with a forstner bit. (Yea, I know, it's cheating - it was on some spalted birch that didn't want to cut well AT ALL...)

Owen, Thanks for the input! I haven't had a chance to get in the workshop since posting, but your brief tutorial - along with Del Stubs videos, Raffan books and videos should make this easier the next time I manage to get time...

Greg G.

Well, I'm left-handed, so it should fit me fine. ;-) With more experience I will probably try some custom grinds, but for now, I've pretty much stayed with the stock profiles. I need to develop the ability to reflexively know what grinds mods I need when turning - and this takes experience I don't yet have...

Thanks, Arch, for the info.

Greg G.

Greg.. a question from another "correct handed" turner:

Having a choice, which side of the lathe would you work from, the conventional "headstock on left" or the other side?

When you shift from outside to inside/hollowing, do you change hands, or move to the end of the lathe?

I seem to change hands a lot, and move around more than the right handed folks that turn stuff in my shop.. just wondering...

mac

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I guess conventional thinking has permeated my thought process... My lathe isn't reversible, so I work from the conventional headstock on the left side. I hold the tool handle in my left hand, and guide the tool with my right.

I didn't really think about it - it's just the way that felt right to me the first time I picked up a tool.

I move towards the end of the lathe, being particularly careful not to perforate my right elbow with the very sharp live center. I have a bed extension, so this is more difficult than it should be - I have considered removing the extension, but it was such a pain to set up a seamless transition between the two, I haven't bothered as I still do some spindle work.

The current location of the lathe doesn't allow me to move completely to the other side for inside hollowing work - but that may change in the future...

Living in a world dominated by the *right* (dark, evil) side has forced me to become somewhat ambidextrous... Scissors, spiral bound notebooks, guitars, political elections, etc. :-o

Greg G.

same here... on spindle stuff, it doesn't really seem to matter..

I find that to hollow, I have to either move to the end or the other side of the lathe, or work right handed.. I can do most things with my right hand, (computer mouse, screwdriver, wrench, drill, saw, etc.), but for the actual hollowing, I need to be correct handed... If I'm just truing or rounding a face or something, that's pretty easy to do right handed..

I did notice that all my lathe chisels are right handed.. maybe I need another set?? *g*

mac

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Hi Greg & Mac, I'm right handed, but I sometimes hollow open bowls with the work rotating in reverse while I stand on the usual side.

Making your motors reversible or changing to one that does, and ensuring that the work is secure on the spindle might very well be worth the expense and trouble for you southpaws. Maybe you have already tried the method on another's lathe. If so, is it a 'left handed solution' or does it really help? :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

After over 20 years of playing with lathes, I don't think my brain could handle the concept of the work turning in the other direction, Arch...

There have sure been times that I would have liked reverse for sanding, though..

mac

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