Hopefully, an unnecessary reminder for dummies like me.

Oct 29, 2007 2 Replies

It was time to make another thirty or so favors for Lori's Waves & Navy Nurses monthly luncheon. I chose to make small ring bowls and turned them from mahogany offcuts and burned a crude fouled anchor in the bottoms. To speed things up I thought to chuck and turn short cylinders without bothering with making tenons. Hollowing the end grain with any pressure at all made them fly out of the chuck even when it was over tightened. I relearned what I had unlearned, so I'll caution a few beginners and remind two lazy oletimers.



George explains it better, but in compression mode although scroll chucks need to close on a tenon radially, just as or more importantly the front of the jaws need to firmly abut the radial foot of a tenon. Clamping, no matter how tightly, a cylinder without a tenon in the the jaws with its end contacting the chuck body is no good, but if you insist on doing it, be sure to wear a catcher's mitt and mask. :)



Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter


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Also a good thing to have that dovetail hooking in and wedging tight. When you get behind that shaving on the inside, you're pulling against a couple of foes.

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The 3rd time that it either came out of the chuck or wobbled from moving in the jaws, I figured out that though my tenon was the right diameter and square for the fit of the jaws, (Oneway chicks don't use a dovetail), the tenon was about

1/16" too LONG... It was bottoming out in the chuck be by so little that it wasn't really visible until I checked the depth.. (Sorry, not with a micrometer)

Took it outside and used the disk sander to take about an 1/8" off the bottom of the tenon and it works fine.. I'm definitely going to keep that in mind on the next 2 goblets!

As you said, hopefully this will help someone out there...

"Experience is the ability to recognize your mistakes when you repeat them"

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

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