Can anyone please explain to me exactly how to use a bandsaw to create
blanks? I'd like to cut them out of stock so that they are presized and
in a draw. I THINK i want the blanks 3/4" x 3/4" x 5" is this correct?
what blade do I use? I don't know how long the saws sat so what
maintence, checks do I need to do to it?
The bandsaw is a craftsmen 12" model 113.243310 circa december 1982.
I have LOTS of brand new blades and several used blades. 2 of which
have kinks in them so I don't know if those two are ok or not.
Or should I use a different tool, like scroll saw, miter saw, table saw,
This big of a question is too comples to answer in one post. There are
several books available on using a bandsaw, which will cover tuning it
up and which blades to use depending on what kind of turning you are
doing. Is there a woodcraft store near you? Some of the big stores
(Home Despot, Ace, Lowes) will also have books on this subject, Fine
Woodworking, etc. Blanks can be any size that you can fit onto your
lathe, depending on what you want the finished procuct to be, which for
me means weights from an ounce or 2 to 100 lbs or so.
I tend to cut pen blanks on a table using a sled. On the other hand. a band
saw is a lot safer although the sides of the blank are not as smooth. Since
they will be turned away, this is not a great issue. One thing you mant to
make sure of is getting a square cut for the top and bottom of the pen
blank. It makes a big difference for drilling for the brass tubes. Mark the
blank for length and then ease the blank into the blade at the cut line.
Just nick the wood, say a 1/32" deep. Rotate the blank towards you so the
blade line is up. Assuming the blank is square and the blade is square to
the table, a cut across the line will give a surface square to the sides.
Stay tuned to the web site. One of these days (famous last words) I will get
a page up on both pens and using the bandsaw for wood turning.
God bless and safe turning
Truro, NS, Canada
Hall Family wrote in news:ed21vl$uvb$1
My method is to use a table for everything. Cut the stock into 3/4 x 3/4
strips and then using the mitre gauge, cut the blanks to size. Ensure that
you are cutting them a hair long so you can square the ends using a barrel
Not exactly the most pleasant job, but do a complete band saw tuneup.
Without the tuneup you will likely have issues and frustration.
Install the thickest blade that you have that the bandsaw will
take--this will give you more control for straight cuts. You can also
use a table saw although small pieces can be more risk. Mark Duginski
has several good bandsaw books.
As Karl said tbale saws are great for various tasks. I also use a table
saw to make my pen blanks. I find it is easier for me, and I also find
with the rip fence I can keep my fingers FAR away from the blade and use
a sacrificial push stick. I dont think this would be as easy to do using
a bandsaw. As I like to keep my fingers far away.
On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 13:45:48 -0500, Hall Family
Best reason for cutting (assuming pen?) blanks on the band saw is less loss of
wood from blade thickness...
In a draw???
Depending on what type and size pen you're making, blanks are usually either
5.8" or 3/4" square... I cut all of mine to at least 3/4" unless I have some
nice wood that I can get better use of the stock by cutting skinnier blanks..
Once your saw is set up, make 2 simple fences out of scrap... I use 3/4 particle
board with hardwood or corian runners for the miter slot...
The idea that when you have the runner in the slot, one fence extends to about
3/4" from the blade path, the other fence would be 5/8"...
Clamp the fence in place and run your stock between the fence and blade as
needed.... I run them through twice, to get them square for easier drilling
You can also build a cutoff sled for the BS using a larger piece of scrap and a
runner on the slot side, and a piece of 2x1" or something at a right angle to
the blade as a fence..... cut a slot part ways into the sled and fence so that
it's easier to line up your blanks when you cut them to length...
Start with marks on the fence that you measure with the tubes from your pen
kit... later, as you see what kits you use more often, you can make stops at
Throw out the kinked blades or make something out of them, like sandpaper tear
off boards.. blades are a LOT cheaper than body parts... YMMV
I have a paper I wrote for a college class that includes a description of my
process along with photos. If you or anyone else would like a copy just
email me. It is large, about 4 megs so you may not want it if you have
ndd1"at"ptd.net (remove "at")