Jaw sets

The Teknatool stable of jaws is as good as any, better than a lot. What were you planning on doing with them?

You'll want the pin jaws, for sure. Handy as can be for small stuff and starting. Here the Teknatool jaws are a great choice because they don't mess their own nest by chewing the wood, just snuggling up tight to it without changing its shape. You also get a 25mm dovetail capability, and a dowel-chuck setup all in one.

I work mostly with the 50mm on mortises, and they come with. If you don't bully your work, they'll do at least 16x9 that I can vouch for.

Next up would be the so-called 75 mm. They're great tenon-holders, with good broad reference faces to snug up with the dovetail, and an 82 mm mortise hold.

I also have the "power grip" jaws, but seldom use them save to hold small, lightweight stuff like lids, where a small groove is all you need to reference to. Suppose if you're a tenon guy they'd do almost as well as the

75s.

Then there are those toothed monsters, which I bought because other people recommended them. Don't give me anything the smooth ones don't do better, except for square pieces, and even that's debatable. Sure can chew up wood, making precise recentering almost impossible, though.

I'd like to add a set of the extended jaws this Christmas for the rare times when I'm turning from the headstock end for whatever reason. They'd give some extra room.

Get a Oneway steady. Makes any set of jaws at least one size bigger with the resistance to lateral loading, and keeps chatter to a minimum below 1/4 thick.

Hi Nat

Nat as far as I know it is some > My question is, are Teknatool and Oneway jaw sets interchangable? I am

snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com wrote: /SNIP/

Make that

Well you get my drift as who we are talking about I think, and the accuracy of those statements.

Leo are you trying to confuse George with facts again? ... chuckle(tm)

Nope, we still measure wood strength by resistance to force per unit of area, so dividing the force over a larger area, as always, is the best way to ensure that the material is not deformed. No ridges or teeth, contour meets contour is the best.

Those are facts. What's nice to know is that you can use bad practice and still get good results when you use jaw types designed to divide the load, and carry it over a broad area.

Is anyone going to answer this mans question?? Opinions aside!

Bob Edwards San Antonio

Yes, I'm pretty sure the holes line up, and yes, you would have to pull the safety pin out of the oneway jaws. However, I work with both the oneway and teknatool chucks and jaws. I own a teknatool supernova. I've used oneway on pieces up to 16" diameter, as well as the teknatool. Holding power, one over the other is a non-arguement. They both hold the wood to a capacity that is limited to the wood not the chuck. I would recomend to anyone, skip the oneway, consider a g3 or supernova, and enjoy an excellent line of jaws teknatool make available.

The main arguement of the G3 is price, but it isn't sealed, and it's an older style key. The supernova2 is sealed and uses an allen key. for me it would come down to how budget conscious you need to be.

Thanks everyone for the onfo.