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Jet 1236 tailstock problems

I have posted this question also on AAW forums.

I am having tailstock problems. I have a Jet 1236 that the c-ring which prevents the tailstock quill from sliding backwords when under pressure, keeps coming out of its groove.

I have uploaded a picture to help explain.

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The c-ring is part #48-1. It sets in a groove on part #47. Part #47 also has threads that pushes the quill forward or backword depending on turning the handcrank on back of tailstock. I have called Jet and received a new c-ring and also part #47 but even with the new parts it still jumps out of the groove over time.

I only use the tailstock for support when using a woodworm screw or a friction/jam fit when turning off the tenon on the bottoms of bowls. I dont apply a lot of pressure to the tailstock, but it continually jumps out of the groove.

Does any other 1236 owners have this problem, if so what have you found to remedy the problem. Would it be possible to weld or glue this c-ring in place. Is there a different manufactures tailstock that will work with the 1236.

Thanks, Steve Massman

Reply to
massmans
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Steve

I have a 1236 and use it as you do and also for spindle turning with the tailstock. I've never experienced any problems like yours even why I crank it tight.

Sorry no ideas for you though Jerry

Reply to
Simoogle

"Simoogle" wrote: (clip) I've never experienced any problems like yours (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I had that same problem when I was using a Jet 1236, but it hs been so long I can only vaguely recall how I solved it. I think I put in two clips.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Steve - have tried calling Jet tech support? Their Powermatic support is outstanding!

Reply to
hwahl

Hi Steve

These are the reasons why I always say, "buying quality hurts only once" or "pay me now or pay me later"

However as the case is, I do assume here, but would expect that the corner/shoulder where the C-ring butts up against is gone or rounded off a lot. I also assume there is not a lot of cast metal there, if there was/is, you could get a counter bore and square that shoulder up, and then use a washer to sit flat against that new face and have the C-ring turn against that, would be a better surface than the soft cast iron.

So if there is not enough metal to do the previous, another thing that should work, is to epoxy a washer against the surface where the C-ring runs against, that way you should be able to get a flat and square shoulder that would survive for a while if not abused.

And yes others have problems with the tailstock to, one person had the C-ring wear right through the back, and had gotten a new casting, buying cheap isn't cheap, you keep on paying afterwards.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

explain.http://www.massmans.org/1236_diagram.jpeg > > The c-ring is part #48-1. It sets in a groove on part #47. Part #47 > also has threads that pushes the quill forward or backword depending > on turning the handcrank on back of tailstock. >

Reply to
l.vanderloo

Wanted to say thanks to everyone that replied. I will most likely try the epoxy to something like "JB Weld" to either use a washer or another c-ring.

There is still most of the lacking shoulder of where the c-ring sits. So putting another behind it and securing with something like epoxy should help.

Thanks again, Steve Massman

explain.http://www.massmans.org/1236_diagram.jpeg > > > The c-ring is part #48-1. It sets in a groove on part #47. Part #47 > > also has threads that pushes the quill forward or backword depending > > on turning the handcrank on back of tailstock. >

Reply to
massmans

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