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Jet 1442 potential problem

I have had my jet 1442 for a little over a year now and have turned probably

20 or more bowls in that time, most from mountain ash, boxelder, or cherry. This afternoon I had a mountain ash bowl on the lathe that I was starting to sand. After awhile I turned off the lathe and when I went back to it and turned the shaft by hand, it seems to turn somewhat harder than usual.

Usually, it turns quite freely and now there was a distinct difference even when I took off the heavy chuck and bowl. I am wondering if I should have been doing some lubricating over the last year but could not find anything in the manual about that. Any words of wisdom from 1442 users (I know that are quite a number of them in this group). I don't want to do any further damage at this point if there is something I should do. I have a compressed air line in my shop and I often blow out the motor and the interior of the headstock casing. The only thing I did different today was that I turned up the speed one step further than I ever have before (up to

2300 RPM while waxing with the Beall bowl system).
Reply to
Bob Daun
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IS it the VS model?

2 things I've noticed with mine, which is a veteran of hundreds of turnings:

your situation is unusual because on my lathe (and my brother's 1442) is that the higher the speed dial is set, the easier the spindle turns when off...

I've also noticed that the reeves drive, being a good system but with limitations, doesn't always change the pulley sizes exactly the same, so you could get slip or tightness from that.. If so, starting the lathe and turning the speed up or down should correct that..

SAFETY NOTE: You should turn the speed down before shutting off.. Not fun putting a bowl blank on, firing it up and remembering that you're at

2,300 instead of 450... DAMHIKT

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Reply to
Bob Daun

No, I don't, Bob.. no mention of it in the manual that I remember.. I do use a dry lubricant on the slides once in a while, though, just to make speed changes a little easier..

Oh.. I think I oiled the reeves in the Shopsmith a few times, but not for about

20 years and I'm still using the hell out of it.. ;-]

Actually, my brother learned to turn on my 1442 and then bought one... used it for a few years and traded it in for a Jet 16" with digital speed control.. I used mine for about 5 years and just moved up to a Nova 16" with digital...

The 1442 will still do everything I need to do, but the Nova is a lot more fun..*g*

Right now, the 1442 is a dedicated buffer and guest/student lathe and the Jet mini is on loan to a friend.. I never get rid of lathes or computers, just add to the network..lol

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Mac,

You said you used a dry lubricant?? What did you use and would it work on a Shopsmith?

Shopsmith recommends a light machine oil but I've had a lot of trouble because the fine dust mixes with the oil.

Thanks, Dave

Reply to
Dave Bovey

Molykote D321R is what I use for many purposes when dust is apparent. Dis ensemble as mutch as possible, clean, degrease, spray the D321R. It gives a molybdenum-sulfide saturated coating. I use it for chucks, tailstock mechanism and banjo mechanism. Works very well. Greetings from The Netherlands!

Reply to
Gerard

Gerard,

Thanks! I'll look for Molykote and give it a try. Dave

Reply to
Dave Bovey

Gerard,

I did some checking...

Molykote D-321R is a Dow Corning product that is not available in the United States. I'm sure there are similar products available here that would work.

Thanks, Dave

Reply to
Dave Bovey

I've been using LPS greaseless lubricant for a couple of years.. Available at the Borg and lots of places, it sprays on wet and dries so as not to attract dust.. I seem to remember the Shopsmith having oil caps, but maybe not? if so, an aerosol might be difficult..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

I don't know about the specific product (D-321R) but I sure have used a lot of MolyKote in my days as a mass spectrometer operator. I was a material we used to coat steel screws which would then be subjected to high temperature under vacuum. The MolyKote kept them from sticking after the temperature extremes and they could be removed easily. I was actually a Molybdenum based grease. I am surprised that if it is now a Dow Corning product, it is not available in the United States.

Reply to
Bob Daun

Perhaps the same kind of product is available from some other brand? Maybe this helps to understand my former description of the product: "Moly coatings are a combination of molybdenum disulfide lubricant and high performance resins."

Graphite powder could be an alternative, just rub it on the surface.

Good luck!

Reply to
Gerard

Graphite (black lead), the stuff that used to be used for cleaning cast iron stoves works just fine. If you can't get hold of any, buy a 6B pencil, and use the lead ground up, or just rub the lead all over surface.Means dismantling and reassembling the pulleys,but you don't have to do it very often.It's what the British army used to lubricate rifle bolts in desert conditions back in the dark days of Lee Enfield rifles! It's kept my Draper lathe working without problems for the last 5 years. cleshe

Reply to
c.les hewitt

"c.les hewitt" wrote in news:LoTKj.77774$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe17.ams:

The Lee Enfield .303. A fine, fine rifle. As was the Springfield '03 and the Mauser '98K. All based on the same/similar design. All were worthy of the brave men that carried them. I often wonder what the world would be like today if all those same brave men had only carried them. A bunch would have probably been turners. Hank

Reply to
Hank

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