Jet 1442 belt

I know that there are several 1442 users here and I am looking for some advice. Mine seems to be slipping quite a bit even at low speed. I think the belt may be worn/stretched. I have a new belt but I also know that it is not the easiest job to change belts so I am looking for advice on using a link belt instead of the v-belt. It appears that the v-belt is actually about 3/8 inch in width and I know that it is possible to get 3/8" link belt material. Could anyone advise me of a good supplier for the link belt and any tips about mounting it. In other words where should the speed setting be set when the new belt is installed? Any other information will be helpful.

Bob Daun

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Reply to
Bob Daun
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"Bob Daun" wrote: clip) In other words where should the speed setting

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Is this a Reeves variable speed drive. I have had considerable experience with such a set-up on the Jet 1236. Ideally, the belt length should be such that when you pull the maximum belt tension (for minimum speed) the motor pulley just bottoms out. If the belt is any longer than this, you will reach a maximum setting, but the motor pulley will be wider than you want. Similarly, if the belt is too short, you will not be able to reach the maximum speed setting. Link belting can be adjusted in 1/2" increments, so you can get a very good setting by trial and error, adding or removing one link at a time.

When you buy your belting material, I suggest you buy about 6" more than you are going to need for your setup. If you ever stall the lathe, the motor tends to spin on one par of the belting, causing it to burn. About a month later it is likely to fail. When this happens, there is no need to replace the entire belt. Just put in two or three new links and you're good to go.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Actually, it may well be the set screws on the Reeves Drive pulley on the shaft in the head stock. Mine just started slipping a couple of days ago, since this had happened before, I pulled the cover, tightened the screws and was off and running at full speed again.

Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

I get my link belt at Harbor Freight.. Works fine, despite some of the other "less than quality" stuff they sell..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Before you replace your belt, you should check that the variable pulleys on the Reeves drive are sliding properly on the shafts, through the full range of speeds.. If they don't adjust themselves to tightly grip the belt, you will get slip when you put the chisel on your wood.

Just take off the cover, and run the lathe through its speed range. If the belt is not stretched tight, it's the pulleys' fault.

Jet dustomer service told me to use WD40, sprayed onto both shafts through the slots in the pulleys. Be sure to put the cover back on before you run the motor again (DAMHIKT).

Old Guy

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Reply to
Old Guy

"Old Guy" wrote: in message news: snipped-for-privacy@a7g2000yqo.googlegroups.com... Before you replace your belt, you should check that the variable pulleys on the Reeves drive are sliding properly on the shafts, through the full range of speeds.. If they don't adjust themselves to tightly grip the belt, you will get slip when you put the chisel on your wood. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Good point. Do this from time to time *BEFORE* you start to have problems. If you wait 'till the sliding pulley is seized, you'll have a much harder time. If you ever do have to disassemble the motor pulley, tie a string to the spring BEFORE you take the clip off. It's really easy to recover the spring from the pile of wood chips if all you have to do is follow a string.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

I did that with "dry" lubricant"... Ever try to clean lines of that stuff off of a ceramic tile floor?

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mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Had a boss try to fix a squeaky hard drive with WD40. While it was running and while he was wearing a white shirt. Was kind of hard to tell him what he didn't want to hear, so everybody just backed off while he pulled the cover. Way off. The results were as expected and the sound of the heads gouging the platters was something I don't want to hear again.

Reply to
LDosser

I have owned a Jet 1442 and a 1642. The belts are not hard to change, just follow the instructions in the manual. Both units required belt changes. I never had a slippage problem but flat spots on the belts caused excessive vibration. I didn't realize how much vibration those lathes had until I got a belt less unit. The Nova DVR XP...BIG DIFFERENCE

LB

Reply to
LBledsoe

Reply to
Russ Stanton

I have an XP, along with a Jet mini and 1442 var..

The XP is quiet, uses less electricity and is a wonderful lathe.. The "universal" stand sucks and I'd pay the extra $150 for the cast iron legs..

Once you get used to the speed adjustment and such, you don't want to stop turning stuff... It makes it so much more enjoyable.. less vibration, less noise, easy to find the best speed for out of balance pieces, etc..

I don't do much big stuff anymore, but use the XP for pens, vases, bowls.. anything I turn... I thought that I'd use the other lathes along with the XP but no way.... The 1442 is a dedicated buffer and the mini is a loaned/teaching/demo tool..

I've turned the headstock 45 degrees to hollow a large vase and then brought it back to normal and turned pens without checking the "point to point".. It seems to run true and I don't get "oval" pens of abnormal vibration, so I guess it's aligned..

Hope that helps...

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

I have a DVR-XP and a Jet Mini. All the "small" stuff (pens, etc) is done on the Jet. The reason is the high-speed (3500 rpm). Replacing the bearing race on the Jet would be easier then rebuilding the DVR-XP.

High speed is hard on any lathe, smaller lathes are a good choice for small high speed turning

I really like the DVR-XP for a number of reasons. Given the budget, I would get one again

Reply to
Ralph E Lindberg

Russ,

The head stock locking system used on the Nova pretty much assures that the head/tail stocks will come back to perfect alinement. The tail stock is adjustable if you should ever have a mis-alinement problem. When set at the 45 degree angle, hollowing bowels and vessels is at a very comfortable position and the tool rest stability is very impressive. The infinite speed range makes turning large out of balance pieces very do-able. High speed and the lack of vibration make the Nova an excellent lathe for pens and other small projects. I would suggest a

6 inch tool rest for the smaller work. All in all I am very pleased with the Nova and would highly recommend it.

LB

Russ Stant> Do you use the Nova for Bowl turning and/or pen turning? If so how do

Reply to
LBledsoe

I never seen a Nova in use, I assume you turn it 45 degrees so the turned object would be to the rear and then you slide the tool rest over to the rear. If this is an incorrect assumption how do you orient the tool rest so you are still cutting with the bowl going downward?

Can you turn a larger bowl at the 45 degree position? If so what is the limit?

Reply to
Russ Stanton

Reply to
Russ Stanton

Good point.. I have a 4" and 6" rest, along with an assortment of curved ones..

My main regret of going from the Jet to the Nova is that I bought some really nice tool rests used and had to cut an inch off of the posts to use them on the

1442, which makes them useless on the XP, of course..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

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