Link belt failure on Bandsaw...

Hello to the group,

Well it seems that my initial enthusiasm with a recent link belt replacement (of an aging "V" belt) on my bandsaw appear to have been premature. :-(

A few days after the replacement, the belt failed. The belt had been run in and tensioned correctly, but failed during resawing operations on a block of green Winged Elm.

My bandsaw is an 18" Italian model, with the original Italian 3 H.P. Motor. It is about 10 years old. These motors are notorious for running hot and the belt appears to have melted in the failed section.

I have since replaced the damaged links and reinstalled it, whilst I await a replacement 'V" belt. I have heard many good things about link belts, but it's unclear if they will perform well on my bandsaw and the brutally heavy use it receives. Not to mention the heat generated by the motor.

I plan on switching back to a traditional "V" belt however, to install this will require removal of the lower wheel. The wheel looks like it is pressed onto the shaft bearing and will need to be pulled off with a gear puller. :-o I'm not thrilled with the idea of pulling off the lower wheel for obvious reasons.

Has anyone performed this type of repair before on a bandsaw? Any tips on getting it off and back on? The realignment of the wheel once is is back on does not sound very fun either. All of my diagrams and instructions are in Italian... Now if I could only read Italian! Any help would be appreciated. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

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Reply to
Steve Russell
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"Steve Russell" wrote: (clip) I have since replaced the damaged links and reinstalled it, (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Did you have a stall since installing the link belt? In my experience on a wood lathe, if the belt stalls, the motor pulley will damage the links in that area, and soon thereafter the belt will fail.

One thing for sure: I would not replace the belt as long as it continues without failing.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Three horse seems a lot for a single V to handle. Horse and a half appears to be the upper limit normally. Do you have two, and the problem a difference in tension? Matched belts seem the rule for things like that, or at least I've followed the manufacturers' recommendations and done it on the planer and the school unisaw.

Bad thing about yanking the pulley is if it's a cheap pot metal type it might deform or even crack. I'd do a bunch of loosening, tapping and lubricating before I tried, that's for sure.

Reply to
George

Hello Leo,

Yes, there was a very minor stall (not uncommon with green wood as we all know) and soon thereafter, the belt failed. I really wonder about the heat from the motor as well. It is so hot after running for a while that you cannot keep your hand on it comfortably.

The manufacturer says that's the way these European motors are, but it's still odd to me. The motor has worked fine for ten years though, so who knows? Thanks for your insight, I sincerely appreciate it. Take care and best wishes to you and yours!

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Reply to
Steve Russell

Hello George,

I thought that as well when I first purchased this bandsaw (3HP on a single pulley), but it has worked fine for ten years. No, there is a single "V" pulley only... I know what you mean about matched belts. I went through that with my Unisaw as well.

I would hope it's not cheap pot metal as the bandsaw cost about $3,000, IIRC. It has held up really well, but no belt can last forever. That's why I changed the original continuous "V" belt, which lasted ten years. Amazing to me when you consider the amount of wood that has gone through that bandsaw.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but I see dark clouds on the horizon and they're heading my way. :-o There are some bolts on the back side of the bandsaw that centre the lower wheel shaft and another bolt that secures the back side of the shaft.

It would be easier to remove it from there and skip pulling the bearing, but I'm not even sure you can remove the wheel that way. There is probably a bearing back there as well. Also, the wheel would have to be recentred and maybe even balanced. Sounds like a long road to hoe, no matter what I do...

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Reply to
Steve Russell

So, take a small fan, wire it in parallel with the motor, and blow air on the thing when it's running. Run a duct outside and bring in clean air, even better. Might be that it's a 50HZ motor running on 60 hz. Sounds like a poor design choice on the belt placement, anyway - am I gathering that the belt pulley is between the wheel and the frame? That's the only configuration I can picture that would make the belt especially hard to change. One option would be to use a belt long enough to go over the bottom wheel, and move the motor mount if that's too long for the current motor mount position.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Hi Steve

I don't believe your new link belt is at fault.

There's a good chance that either your v-belt pulley has worn after all those years, I have seen that often enough, especially in a abrasive environment, that would also be a good reason to have a new belt slip, or that as this is a european machine, the v-pulley very likely has euro dimensions(metrical), they are not the same as the imperial sizes, and your link belt has those.

I do not believe it was the motor heat that damaged the belt but the stalled saw, and for either one or the other reason.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

Don't know how much you need translated, but I've got a *lot* of years of studying French in, and can read Italian and Spanish relatively well. If you're really in a jam, and can send the text or a scan of the pages from the manual you need, I'll see if I can make it intelligible enough for you to use before you get too far into the guts of the machine. It won't be a translation suitable for high-level diplomatic negotiations, but close enough to get the gist, anyhow!

If you're extra lucky, there may be some easier way to get that new belt on that you've overlooked, but is described in the manual. It's hard (though certainly not impossible) to believe that a machine that size really requires all of that messing around to change a simple belt.

Of course, it'd be very helpful if you can isolate the sections you really need to do the job at hand- I just don't have time to muddle through a 400-page technical manual, but a few well chosen pages might do the trick.

If you're interested in trying this out, you can e-mail me off list at prometheuscharter.net.

Reply to
Prometheus

Hello,

Good idea... I have used an auxiliary fan for years directed at the motor to keep it cooler. Yes, the belt pulley is behind the wheel and in front of the back of the frame. Unfortunately, there is not enough room to move the motor mount up high enough to use a larger belt (one that would go over the lower wheel). There is some amount of play in the motor mounting location, because a threaded rod connected to the motor adds the tension to the belt assembly. Thanks for the help and assistance.

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Reply to
Steve Russell

Hello Leo,

I never thought about pulley wear, but that seems like it would be compensated for when the belt was tensioned... Visual inspection of the pulley does not reveal any wear but who knows. I wonder if there are metric link belts? I had also thought about the Imperial vs. Metric size question, however, the link belt when installed fits into the pulley like a glove. BTW, this particular link belt is a 3/8" size. That may be part of the problem, less surface area than a continuous belt.

One thing for sure... If the link belt fails again, I will just pull the wheel and put another continuous belt back on. The original "V" belt lasted for ten years, so the replacement should deliver the same longevity. I'm still struggling with how to get the bloody wheel off easily. Thanks and best wishes to you and yours!

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Reply to
Steve Russell

Hello,

Thanks for the offer of assistance, I sincerely appreciate it. If I come to an impasse, I may take you up on your offer. I'm going to take a really good look at it today and say a few prayers to the gods of wood... We shall see. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

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Reply to
Steve Russell

Reply to
Gerald Ross

"Steve Russell" wrote: (clip) this particular link belt is a 3/8" size. That may be part of the problem, (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Earlier posts discussed whether multiple belts are necessary for the amount of horsepower you have. Certainly, downsizing to a 3/8 belt makes that question even more critical. Is link belt available in 1/2" width?

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Hi Steve

Are you say> Hello Leo,

Reply to
l.vanderloo

There are high-tech belts that are narrower than normal, but can carry a large Hp load. The Rockwell 20" with 2Hp motor uses a 3/8" wide belt, but it isn't your typical rubber fan blade belt. And keep in mind that at the belt speed increases, so does its Hp capability. Dan

Reply to
Dan Bollinger

Hello Leo,

Yes, 1/2" link belts are available, but my bandsaw was manufactured to use the smaller 3/8", or metric equivalent belts. I agree it sounds way too small, but that's they way it was made... It has performed flawlessly (except for a capacitor change) for ten years, but it does make you wonder why they did not use a wider belt on an 18" bandsaw (150" band).

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Reply to
Steve Russell

Hello Leo,

Yes, that's correct... A 3/8" (or metric equivalent) belt with a 3H.P. motor. I will check the pulley per your instructions. There are some holes in the wheel, so I guess a gear puller might work, if it can grip the wheel around the holes. Looks like it's going to be fun. :-o Thanks and all the best to you and yours!

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Reply to
Steve Russell

Hello Dan,

Thanks for the tip! I will look into some type of high HP load belt in the correct size. Take care.

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Reply to
Steve Russell

high-tech belts that are narrower than normal, but can carry a large

As belt speed increases the flexing and temperature increases also, then again I have seen 6HP vacuum cleaners also, I'd rather see a multi-V on a application like that.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

Regardless of your preference, that narrow belt on that Rockwell 20" survived over 12 years in a heavily used university student design shop.

Dan

Reply to
Dan Bollinger

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