Bandsaw "Screaming"; Problem?

Sad to say, if it starts slowly, it's likely the motor. After a bit of run, check for heat at the bearings, perhaps drop the load by freeing the belt and check again for play, scream and heat. Chiwanese motors are a mixed lot, in my experience.

If you mean that the noise starts slowly versus the motor, check the thrust bearings. I find I really have to keep up with the lower bearing, especially after cutting wet wood.

Does it make the same sound if you run it with the blade removed?

DJ Delorie wrote: Does it make the same sound if you run it with the blade removed? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ You can't always assume that removing a blade, or a belt proves the noise wasn't coming from the "driven" side. Taking off the blade relieves the lower bearing of its load, and could easily change the sound.

I have had good success isolating noises with a stethoscope--not the medical model--Harbor Freight has one for a very cheap price, which uses a long slender probe. You touch the end of the probe to the equipment, and you can tell immediately whether you are close to the source of the noise. Many mechanics use a long thin screwdriver for this, but it has never worked as well for me as the 'scope.

No, you can't, but it's an easy thing to try and it might make the problem more obvious. Like my dad always says, "Try the easy things first."

Thank you one and all for you advice and suggestions. I am going to try one at a time and see if I can locate the source. I did clean it out real good today but that didn't stop the noise.

I will let you know when and if I solve the mystery. I really hate it when a machine doesn't run perfect!

Thanks, Ruth

Woodturners Logo My shop and Turnings at

remove the V-belt from the motor and see if it goes away.

Ok, here's where I'm at with this dilema; I have a link belt, I brushed it out as well as I could, I wiped out the pulleys, it still screamed.

I can't tell if it's the shaft to the pulleys or from the motor because they are in close proximity. It is definitely one of these.

It doesn't scream with the belt off, but wouldn't that take the pressure off both these shafts, not telling me which is the culprit?

I was going to first replace the belt, albeit it looks fine, feels fine so must be fine. Then I'll take the shaft to the lower wheel apart; ugh! you guys don't realize how nice it is to be able to loosen bolts with your shear muscle power. : ) So, then what do I do with it? I'm looking for wear, but if it's got enclosed ball bearings ....... maybe I should just call Grizzly? I really hate that Grizzly tech is a toll # and most of the time you're on "hold".

enough babbling

Ruth

Woodturners Logo My shop and Turnings at

IIRC, you can email them at snipped-for-privacy@grizzly.com (check their webpage to be sure of the address)

I haven't had to use them for a long time but when I did I found they were very responsive to emails.

Stuart Johnson Red Oak, Texas

With bearings, you can normally feel some slop if they're going bad, or, if you're careful, a bit of growl as they turn. A _good_ bearing is noiseless.

Rotate by hand, with no load on 'em, if it's bearings, they'll give themselves away.

You may have done all of the following before:

A loose woodruff or square key will produce an annoying sound. The sound will increase gradually as the key, the slot and seat go out of tolerances. First, the shaft and key arrangement should checked. Second, the drive belt should be verified. If you have a spare you should installed it and check if it makes the same noise. If you do not have a spare you may want to use a belt dressing. I avoid using dressings because they are messy. If you have oilite, ball or needle bearings they may be in need of some lubrication or replacement? Your heated shop is inside a barn and the night temperature may vary enough to produce condensation and accelerate rust on the rolling parts and equipment. Check the sheaves (pulleys) for any anomalies. They are made with recycle Aluminum die cast at high speed. Gas vapor do not always escape and after a while air pockets and hairline cracks start to show up. Is the motor still in line with the drive pulley? Many of the instruction books are made for publicity and not intended for trouble shooting and repair. However you may have a section for trouble shooting and a parts list. At time, I have use toll numbers only to find out that the technician was out on the road and wasted money. Now I either fax (at night/low rate) or email my concerns to the vendors or original importers. I was impressed by the information that these technical reps have on hand. FWIW

Ruth, The stethoscope is a god idea, but if you don't have one or are not near a source that carries them, a piece of garden hose will act as a good substitute (also, an auto heater hose or vacuum hose will work well). To use, just put one end to your ear and the other to a point near the suspected point of the noise. If you can get it directly on the part in question, it's best, but don't risk injury on moving parts. (However, you may be able to get diretly on shaft ends as there is little relative movement there at the center of the shaft). This is about the best way I know of to locate noises that are hard to determine the location. Good luck, and be sure to let us know what you find.

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.