Well put... I'll add that if you double that 5", you have the "swing", which most folks use to compare lathe size.. I think the Jet mini is a 1014? (10" swing, 14" spindle cap.)
Mac
Well, it's not much of an issue now, I've got a larger lathe with a
12" toolrest- but I think vibration was more of a testiment to my lousy welding than tool technique. The vibration wasn't audible, it was causing little hairline fractures in the weld. I used 5/8" rod to match the tool post, and mild steel isn't that tough over a span of any distance. The curved rest I made was clamped in a vise and bent over by hand. I don't have the exp. necessary to weld anything but the mild steel, so that was where it was at. Easier to stick with slightly smaller projects anyhow.I'm sure you're right, it just never occured to me to make a stand alone tool rest (if I understand what you're talking about) for a little midi lathe. The point was less of a worry about my current turning than relaying my experiences buying my first lathe and discovering a few things that I thought were a little deceptive. Had I known an experienced turner who could have stood over my shoulder and taught me a thing or two about it, many things would have been easier- but I suspect that many people do what I did. Go to the hardware store, buy the lathe and start turning by guess and by gosh.
Point is to not have it stand alone. Support it on the same table as the lathe, so that you don't get paradoxical motion. If you're cutting, there's really very little pressure from the tool on the rest.
Did a mess of pillars for an Italian restaurant with an old Delta powering and tailstock bolted on another table with interconnecting "toolrest" and alignment lumber. Worked well. The few times I turned outboard on Ol' Blue I used his regular banjo bolted to the table. Also worked well.
Used a freestanding (Powermatic) rest in college and it scared the daylights out of me. Easy to lean and tip, and my hand trying to return and steady the tool sometimes got out of sync with the lathe oscillations. Dangerous.
Promethus, I understand your point of banjo interference even if George doesn't. If they had a larger tool rest available it wouldn't be a problem but that little 4" one can be tiny at certain times - when you're trying to turn something 10" in the rough - and, hell, with only 10" to start with what do you expect? Haven't tried to make a substitute; even worse welder/fabricator than you.
By the way an live center extender usual clears up enough room TomNie
">>> The 5" distance from bed to center can be a little deceptive- the tool
Just because you mention it, how many hp did that old Delta have? I've been thinking about mounting a tailstock to the wall of my turnery for that sort of thing, but I've been hesitating because I don't want to burn out the motor by overloading it.
Lots of different size tool rests are available for the mini, Tom... I got this modular system for a gift and it doesn't suck too bad....
3/4 by the nameplate. Countershafted to less than 100 rpm. Pillars were hollow coopered basswood types, so there wasn't a real problem with support at maybe 70-100 pounds each. Doesn't take much HP to rotate something, or to take shavings, as I mentioned in Arch's latest thought thread. Ended up smoothing with a plane, after roughing with a gouge.
Job started with the assumption of some kind of router jig, but the interrupted load and the "chew" factor of a broad bit didn't please the lathe.
Don't know if the motor on the JET mini/midi is DC or not but if it is, a variable full wave rectifier minimizes the problem I think you're describing - low torque at low rpms. Foredom uses full wave rectifiers in the foot pedals of some of their flex shaft tools. You get almost full torque starting at about 100 rpms. Since the JET VS's lowest speed is 500 rpms, adequate torque at low speeds isn't an issue.
I think I said the VS was handy during the roughing to round stage, dialing up the rpms 'til unacceptable vibration began to occur, then backing off 'til it falls to an acceptable level.
In the "LOW" range, the speed can be dialed continuously from 500 to 1200 rpms. To do that on a multi pulleys set up this would involve many pulley changes and in steps rather than continuous. You probably wouldn't go through the hassle
I agree. But it's nice to quickly and easily dial the highest "comfortable to you" rpms rather than guess, set the pulley combination, try turning, change the pulley combination, try turning again, ...
link.
charlie b
Mac, Great link, thanks. Klingspor had been the only place I'd tried with no luck. TomNie
Happy to help. Tom...
Lee Valley is not only a good place to shop and has excellent (IMO) customer service, but the big guy is a frequent poster here...
hmm.. I think that's a good thing.. *g*
Mac
That's what I get for not thinking it through... I was envisioning a whole log to make a post, and wondering how to keep it from cracking. The coopered post makes a whole lot more sense. Thanks for the info- I'm guessing 1.5hp should be fine then.
Was the router for smoothing the column, or fluting after you smoothed it?
Make that Son Of The Big Guy who has learned well from The Big Guy that high quality at a reasonable price AND great customer service is a recipe for a very successful business, held in high regard by anyone who has done business with them.
charlie b
These were not fluted. The carpenter I was working with was more of a router than a lathe man, and thought he'd make some sort of a giant version of those router crafters they used to sell. Combination of flex in jig and piece, plus the chew of a 5/8 mortising bit tore up the wood as it reduced the edges.
BTW, one of the great experiences of my life, working with him. He proudly displayed his journeyman's papers (in German) to any and all. A product of the apprentice - slave, according to him - system, he could do almost anything.
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