Jet vs Delta 14" lathe

Solution: I purchased a 1x8--to--1 1/4x8 adaptor to enable using a chuck with the larger thread diameter. Now everything clears the motor, and I've incurred no additional vibration of any sort. I got rid of my 1x8 faceplates and only use 1 1/4x8 plates now.

Solution: I put an old nylon stocking--a wifely discard--over the motor grill and so far no dust buildup in the motor at all. I blow the stocking "filter" off every few hours with high pressure air. Work like a charm.

Max

Unless kept clean the pulleys become hard to move and will not go the full range. Depending on what you turn and sand, humidity, and other shop conditions this can be rather frequent. Also, this drive system can drift out of parallel too easily for my taste. When I'm in my shop, I want to work on wood, not machine maintenence. Once aligned and set up perfectly, a machine shouldn't need additional set-up/alignment work more than once in about 10 years (unless it's abused). BTW I wouldn't consider 150 hours to be heavy use. That's not even the break in period.

Well Maxprop, looks like we have another Capt Neal or Bobsprit here on rcw.

LB

I wasn't implying that it was heavy use, only that amount it has been used so far. I'm new to turning. But my statement stands--no problems so far, and I pull the cover over the drive from time to time just to inspect and lube the pulley half that moves. Everything in there looks fine, with minimal debris and no apparent belt wear--another 'complaint' about Reeves drives.

It's fairly common to hear complaints about Reeves drives. It's obviously not the ideal system for a lathe, but it allows speed control without the high cost of an electronic VS drive, ergo the lathe simply doesn't cost as much. Purchase price is a major consideration for some new turners. Not everyone can afford a VS lathe in the range of $2K or much more. To simply criticize the RD as an inferior speed control device is akin to criticizing a Mazda Miata because it isn't as capable as a Saleen S7. A RD, properly maintained, will give years of useful service. It is unreasonable to eliminate a particular lathe from consideration simply because it does not benefit from state-of-the-art technology, especially in this price range.

Max

LOL! Yup.

And who might you be on ASA?

Max

I am a muddy water sailor on the Ohio river in Kentucky and a wanna be salt water man. Have always had power boats, sailboats just don't work on the river.

Took basic sailing lessons in Florida a few years ago and got hooked. Read everything I could and scoured the Internet for sailing links. Have mostly been a lurker on ASA. I had this grand design to sail of into the sunset, but with a wife that is not much into boating and a family I am still wanna being.

Then I discovered turning. If sailboats are as money hungry as powerboats, which I am sure they are, I am probably better off financially with the lathe. But to quote Sterling Hayden "Is it better to be broke of purse or broke of mind?"

And yes, the Jet 1442 is a find lathe. Should I ever feel the need move up, I would look real hard at the Powermatic 3520.

Lem Bledsoe Warsaw, Ky

I agree that the Reeves is a good alternatie to electronic. Actually, I think it's a better alternative, not so much because of price, but because you maintain low end torque with a mechanical drive. Personally, I still prefer a direct drive belt/pulley cluster. The Reeves is a secondary consideration. The last time I looked (and that was some time ago) the Delta & Jet were quite a bit less than the 3K. If they are now at the same price point as the 3K they are overpriced. The machining, design, and engineering on the 3K is superior.

I paid $767 for my Jet 1442 one year ago, including the legs. Now the price at the same store is around $950--an increase (probably due to the falling dollar against Asian currencies), but still well below the price of a DVR. As for the 3K, I haven't seen that model for sale for some time. A good used one shows up from time to time, though.

Max

The wife issue is the primary reason those sail-off-into-the-sunset dreams never materialize. Few wives, it seems, have the desire to live in rolling, sweaty, cramped quarters for months on end, like we men seem to have.

They can be, but as a rule are not.

Ah, yes, another Sterling Hayden fan. I can't imagine not having a boat.

I was primed to order a PM 3520 until I had the opportunity to turn a bowl on an acquaintance's Oneway. Talk about precision, smoothness, and power. What a lovely machine. But realistically I'm probably not going to sell the

1442 for another year or so, it's doing so well and I'm quite used to it. For the money it's a great lathe, and probably underrated.

Max Mishawaka, IN

My local Woodcraft has a 3K on the floor. It's also in the Woodcraft catalog (with 1.5 HP Ac motor) for $899.99.

I don't like the DVR. Way too much money, way too risky (any motor problem kills the lathe), and (as I said before) I truely believe that variable speed is way more hype than reality.

Hmmm. That's a good price for a fine piece of equipment. I probably would have considered one, had they been available at the time.

Does anyone know if the 3000 is still available, or does his Woodcraft store have a carry-over?

Max

Delivery delayed, according to what I've seen.

Implies availability, but March.

My woodcraft store had a Nova 3K on the floor and I bought a Jet 1442.

BTW what ever became of the Nova Mercury Lathe...can the 3K be far behind?

LB

I have previously heard about the holes too but haven't had a chance to take a look at it. A previous post suggested that gentle emery reaming and a drop of oil will remedy.

The Jet on-line tech support recommends cleaning the belt-drive area but that sounds a bit flakey. I had the problem before the machine had a chance to gum up. I'll need to tear it apart and try the ream and oil.

Had I not bent my original pin, I would have tried that, and with success, I'm sure. A proper size rattail file should do the job quickly.

You can actually ream the detent holes without removing the speed control unit. Same with oiling the pivot. Mine will actually go past the holes on either end a little, with no binding whatever. One other suggestion: try one of those red linked belts--the resulting smoothness is amazing. And the one I installed doesn't seem to wear at all; at least there's no apparent belt residue in the compartment.

Max

I second that ... but I wish mine WOULD show some wear -- it jumps the pulley on my HF 12x33 when I try to take it to top speed.

Hmmm ... maybe I should try taking a link out?

Bill

The quandary I faced when installing the link belt is that it seemed to be perfect somewhere between removing or leaving the final link. But I left the link in and it works fine. I haven't noticed any belt stretch, and it hasn't jumped a sheave. I'm satisfied.

Max

Hi Bill

You sure your pulleys are lined up ?? Hold a straight edge along side your pulley and check, belt shouldn't jump out of the pulley if lined up, unless there is a piece missing out off the belt, not because its a little loose.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

An-- it jumps the

I took the link out last night and that was the ticket. I guess I should have mentioned that it is a Reeves drive in my original posting, eh? I suspect that makes a difference. The drive was closing up completely before arriving at the final detent. This spat the belt out because the v became too shallow.

Bill