Just bought a Jet 10 X 14 lathe. Been thinking about a stand for it. Got somewhat of a plan in mind. 4X4 legs, shelf, maybe a 2nd shelf for weight (sand). But I'll bet many out there already know much more about designing a stand. Did a Google, but only came up with comerical items. Pointers and ideas are very welcome. Many thanks.
I had some 2x2 galvanized angle laying about (also available at Lowes or HD), did the 4 legs to my height requirement and added a shelf for wood storage/weight. Used 5/16 bolts and cross braced top and sides. Quite sturdy with a plywood top. Bolted 1014 on with 2 - 3/8in carriage bolts. BTW, cut out a hole in the top under the motor for air flow and chip discharge.
Let me know if you want measurements/sketch.
Joe
Principles The stance should be wider than the swing of the lathe to offer resistance to off-balance conditions. For a ten-inch swing, I'd make sure the legs spanned at least 15. Not sure exactly by physics where the point of diminishing return is, but it's probably around double the swing, in my experience.
Counters to off-center forces are better at a distance, so keep weight near the floor, providing your stand is rigid. If the stand flexes, move it up closer to the source of the imbalance.
Application A small shop has no room for storing sand. There might as well be door/drawers and a cabinet under the thing as space for gathering shavings. If you store heavy items in there, might not need extra sand, but plan ahead and make a place for it under the bottom shelf. If you make the ends out of rigid material like glued and screwed sheet goods, you'll want it down below.
Real nice to stand your lathe up against a wall, because it puts your racked tools in easy reach and keeps shavings generated from turning insides from falling into stoop and scoop territory. Not many people regularly go behind their lathe, except when cleaning. Might as well get support from the wall.
Excellent idea to elevate the lathe above the tabletop, where a solid top is used, for easy shaving collection. That way you can work the motor more easily, and reach shavings which fall between and beneath the ways without having to hook them out. Alternative is to use no top, and let 'em free fall. This for those who have lots of shop space and don't mind bending over all the time to scoop. Doesn't take much extra elevation. Mine is on two layers of 3/4 sheet goods.
Place the head end of the lathe out of line with vulnerable cast iron. The day will come when you want to turn wet wood or damp and acid wood. It will rust any iron it falls on almost instantaneously. If you're up against a wall, hang only plastic items in the water and sealer throw zone. Alternative is barriers and covers, but the first time you get lazy it's time to get out the wet/dry and the wax.
As an addition to George's thoughts about adding weight and low being better, I store wet logs on a low shelf on the stands on both my mini and 14" lathe and they work very well..
BTW: I also discovered this summer that you have to USE the logs and replace them with new, wet ones, as they don't stay wet OR heavy in 100+ weather with little humidity..lol
mac
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Thanks for the impute. Some very good points. Anyone know of plans on the net?
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