Assuming you meant "tool rest" and not "tool test":
I've got that lathe. It comes with a tool rest extension that works reasonably well for me.
One suggestion. The ways extension for outboard turning only fits on one end of the bed - the headstock end. I turned the bed around (it's symmetrical) so the extension is on the tailstock end. That way I don't have to turn the head 180 degrees, I just slide it down. When I turned it the cord was always getting hung up somewhere.
While I haven't done it yet, I've also considered making a block of wood to fit between the bed and the extension to move the extension out further.
Enjoy the lathe - everyone I know that has one, including myself, thinks it's the greatest. They initially had a problem with the speed control but that appears to have been solved a while back.
We'll see if it's included with mine... I don't see it listed on General's site.
Nice tip, thanks! I am getting the bed extension so have to move stuff around in the shop. I'll take that trick into account as I plan...
What will that gain?
That's great to hear. My little Delta Miidi has done me well, but I had to turn down a really interesting commission simply because I can't spin a piece of wood big enough. It would have paid for 1/3 of the General.
Irresspective of the size of your lathe. When you turn outboard, EVERYTHING is in its weakest position. As long at the piece is balanced, you are okay. Rough turning is OUT.
Forget turning something heavy outboard, unless you life insurance is fully paid, or you really like pain.
I have a JET 1442, which allows the same outboard turning. On my JET, all I do is slide the headstock down far enough to allow me to move the banjo to the back side of the head stock and I am in pretty good shape. I also have an extension left over from an old Harbor Freight lathe that allows me to get around to the the face of the piece.
All that being said, remember, you are turning OUTBOARD for a reason - i.e., the piece is too large in diameter to turn between centers. That mean you "rim speed" is going to be rather high, so keep you lathe set to one of the lowest speed settings. Even then, that rim speed, depending on the size of the piece (my largest, so far, has been about 24 inches) can be a lot faster than you turn between centers.
I don't outboard turning anymore (No big logs in Baja) but when I was, I tried all 3 methods..
Rest extension that came with my late - sucks big time and IMHO dangerous..
Optional outboard setup made by manufacturer.. Better and safer, but vibrates a lot because it transmits any vibration the lathe gets..
Shop made free standing rest - The way to go, IMO.. More adjustable, less vibration and a lot beefier.. If I made another one, it's make foldable tri-pod or detachable legs to save shop space..
As others have said, BE CAREFUL.. I looks easier than over the rails turning, but it has a lot of new torques and vibration involved.. My Nova has a 16" swing and that's more than I really need.. If I'm not using the tailstock, I usually rotate the headstock to 45 degrees and use my normal rest.. Just a better position for my old bones than leaning over the rails..
My Delta came with a toolrest extension. It broke the second time I used it They sent me a new one but I never used it. The failure of the first was a little scary.
The outboard extension as sold is pretty short. Fine for platters but not for a very deep bowl. By moving it out 2-4" I can do a deeper bowl.
But I second what someone else said. Balance the block before you try to turn it outboard. Band saws are a lot less likely than the lathe to do something dangerous with an unbalanced piece.
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