Has anyone had experience turning purpleheart? I have quite a bit of it, albeit in 4/4 stuff, but it could be laminated into spindle or bowl blanks. And the oxidized color is gorgeous. My experience with this stuff is that its harder than hell on tools, and irritating to skin and respiratory passages. Being an open-grain wood, I was wondering if a decent finish could be obtained with tools alone, or if it requires some sort of grain filler to look presentable.
I've used it quite a bit. Mainly on small items or accents rather than large pieces such as an entire bowl, plate or hollowform. It's a bit "chippy" and doesn't do as well in thin sections as other woods.
I've not had a problem with Purpleheart affecting my skin or breathing in any way. Of course, I've never had a problem with any wood doing this to me either and I use a LOT of different kinds of exotic and domestic woods too. Some smell bad but never a reaction of any kind.
As far as being hard on tools, I've not noticed it being any more so than most other exotics or many hard domestics. If you're comparing it to maple, pine or softer oaks then, yes, it's tougher. I've had no problem getting a finished finish straight from the tools with Purpleheart. It certainly does benefit from a good sanding up to 800 when you want a really polished look to it though. I'd never use a grain filler with Purpleheart. Perhaps a sanding sealer, depending on the final finish over the top of it, would be fine but I don't normally do that with this wood either.
Oils will darken the purple color considerably. A shellac or shellac type of finish (most friction polishes) works well. Lacquer is great for it. Urethanes, especially specialty types with UV inhibitors, work nicely as well. A simple wax buffing on the BARE wood will tend to stick in the pores and show noticably. The color will fade in time due to exposure to UV light. Different finishes will slow this process to varying degrees.
Of course, the colors of Purpleheart can vary quite a lot even within the same board. What you see on the surface isn't necessarily what you're going to get underneath as you turn it. It can be bright purple on the outside and a fairly bland light brown on the inside. Of course, this light brown may or many not turn purple with exposure to air. You just never know.
I tend not to be allergic to most substances (felines excluded), but I noted that purpleheart fibers on my arms, when crosscutting on a table saw, feel similar to fiberglass fibers, at least to me. No respiratory problems so far, but I've seen the warnings in the literature.
I've saved your post for future reference, Andrew. Finish considerations are where I generally have failed with purpleheart. I've used Behlen's clear salad bowl finish and some oil-based varnishes, but with less-than-desirable color results. The wood loses its bright purple coloration and becomes rather brownish-burgundy. You are right that the wood tends to be "chippy," but I was hoping it could be turned with decent results, especially in larger objects. Guess I'll do some experimenting, especially with other finishes, most likely lacquer. I'd really like to create a displayable object that will maintain that bright purple color. Thanks.
.(clip) I'd really like to create a displayable object that will maintain that bright purple color. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The first time I turned purple heart, I was dismayed that the beautiful purple color I wanted was gone. I went back to the guy who sold me the wood (a retired forester with lots of expertese) and he told me that the color is produced by the oxygen in the air acting on the wood. Indeed, the color returned in a couple of days. He also told me (and showed me) that sunlight changes the wood from purple to turd-brown.
So this is what recommend: 1.) After turning, allow the color to return before finishing. This gives the oxygen maximum access to the wood. 2.) Keep purple heart away from sunlight as much as possible.
Absolutely. I should have said that your mileage may vary (YMMV). I didn't intend to say that there wasn't any chance of some reaction of some sort. I dare say (and assume everyone knows without further word) that everything can be a reactant to some people at some point.
I'm not looking forward to the day when I too start becoming allergic and reactive to things like most people are. I'm afraid it's actually started, in fact, with poison ivy. Fiberglass doesn't bother me either ... yet.
As a youth in college I worked summers in RV factories, earning money for the following year's expenses. One summer I worked setting/mounting cabinets inside the coaches. The fronts, backs, and roofs of the coaches were choppered fiberglass moldings, and when the roof vent openings were routed out the fiberglass dust sifted down onto me. The irritation I felt for a week or more on my neck, etc. was not an allergic response, rather a response to the fibers that lodged in and irritated my skin. However we did have one summer employee who had to quit after a week as he was severely allergic to the resins--probably vinylester or polyester--used in the production of FRP. Fortunately I'm not in that predicament--yet, as you say.
For some reason I have no problem with the fiberglass irritating my skin either. That's what I meant in my previous message. My dad has always been bothered by it so I have always ended up working with the fiberglass insulation in the houses we've built/restored/maintained. I hear that it does really bother some people as you said of that one guy actually being allergic to the resins.
I've turned quite a bit of purpleheart, from 4/4 to 16/4 (there are some pieces in my album on WoW) with very good results. Never had any problems with skin or respiratory irritation, personally, nor any real hard time on my tools. However, it does require a _sharp_ tool to work it satisfactorily, and even then, can have a tendency to tear out or chip. In spite of it being open-pored, it finishes nicely with oil-based or laquer-type or poly finishes. The thicker finishes keep out the UV, which help it to retain its color longer. Overall, it's not a bad wood and I use it regularly.
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Good info Leo. This is probably why people report such differences in the color of their purpleheart pieces. There are two opposing effects occurring. Martin
Have used Purpleheart a bit. Must use very sharp tools, take light cuts. Do a good job with the tools so that you only have to sand with fine sandpaper. Then use Deft as a sanding sealer... two coats sanding after the first, and again after the second. Sand up to a 320 or 400 grit. And then, for the final finish... use a power polishing system (red rough, white tripoli, and wax) and you will have a very glossy, clear finish that looks great and preserves the purple of the wood.
jack
Maxpr>Has anyone had experience turning purpleheart? I have quite a bit of it,
Are you describing a bench grinder-type polisher with fabric wheels? Or something chucked into a drill? Please excuse my lack of knowledge of these things. Guess that's why I'm asking questions.
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