R.I.P.

Sorry to hear of the death of your drill. I just got lucky and picked up a manufacturer's reconditioned Milwaukee for $53.00 delivered. It was from a web site

Bill

robo hippy wrote:

I'm using a conventional 9.6 volt Panasonic cordless drill for power sanding with no complaints. Actually, it works pretty well. On the high range top speed is 1500 rpm, which is plenty fast for sanding. I had the battery rebuilt at a Batteries Plus for half the cost of a new one. Does anyone else use a conventional drill for sanding?

Barry

I got mine about the same time that you did... It's done a great job on a lot of bowls, using 2" and 3" sanding disks and never complaining... For less than $30 including shipping, I'll buy one (or 2) again and probably will...

IMO, it's better than buying the brand name and worrying about burning IT up..

mac

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The expensive drills also fail, mostly due to accumulation of sawdust inside. Friends of mine have paid more for repairing them than the total cost of your "economy-priced" drill.

R.I.P. - That would be Rest In Pieces?

...Kevin

If it spins a piece of sandpaper at the proper angle and speed, how can it _not_ be "as good" as the aformentioned?

When I started turning, just over 4 years ago, I had a Master Mechanic drill, which probably cost about $29.95 over 10 years ago, when it was bought. I have used it for the time I have been turning and am still using it, although occasionally I get a hunk of motor brush (?) smacking into my hand from time to time. I'll use it until it quits, then probably replace the brushes for a couple of bucks and use it for a few more years.

I used a DeWalt 12v for a couple of years but got to thinking of the sandpaper grit getting into it so got a B&D VSR tailed drill and it works fine. I have an outlet just over the tailstock which makes it convenient. Never felt the need for an angled drill.

SNIP ............. ============================== Sounds like you may have just fried the bearings. If there's no damage to the drill body or signs of roasted windings, I'd get some replacement bearings and probably run it as long as you did before. Of course, if there's visible damage to the areas other than the bearings, well, so long import!

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.

My 10+ y.o. Master Mechanic drill I use, which I mentioned in the previous thread, is conventional.

Works like a charm.

How can it not be as good as? Easy, given my experience with both drills, I would say that under the same work loads, the Sioux/Milwaukee drill will last about 3 times longer that the cheap model. This is still a test in progress. robo hippy

Actually, my question was in regards to the _functionality_ of the cheap vs. expensive drill, rather than the life span, which is what I thought your rhetorical question was also in reference to.

That's exactly why I ordered one, Leo.. I know myself well enough to guarantee that I won't blow the drill out with air, regrease or replace bearings... so "disposable" is the way to go for me..

mac

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I still use my Craftsman corded 3/8 VSR drill for a lot of sanding... especially on the deeper, narrow stuff... The close quarter drill is great when it's shallow or wide enough to fit inside, but sometimes the extra "reach" of a conventional drill is easier than extensions or added pads (I also use them) on an angle drill..

mac

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George... I have what looks like the same cable... don't remember the brand, but same size, price, etc... I'm really unhappy with the chuck being connected with a drill-driver type snap on and am considering gluing or set screwing the chuck on the shaft...

Have you had any problems with the chuck wobbling or coming of?

mac

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That was my thought when I bought my "cheapy"... it's 1/4 of the price, so if it lasts 1/3 as long as the Sioux, I'm ahead of the game..

mac

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It's screwed on, same as any other chuck. No problem. I'm on my fourth or fifth in twenty years. Only thing you have to be careful of is jamming the entire thing so that the flexible wire unwinds. You can do that by mistaking a 60 for 80 grit and sanding with a 3" disk freehand. Just about broke my wrist, too. Anyone need four old 60 grit 3" disks from my sampler set?

When using coarser than 120, make sure you keep a light touch. I like to rest it on a toolrest and use it as a rotary gouge. When used with power-lock hard disks, it doesn't dive into soft areas in spalted stock, which is a real plus.

hmm.. different brand, then... the chuck on mine snaps on to the cable with a driver-bit type hex and wobbles..

It's my second cable.. first one jammed and kinked the first time it was used and had to be exchanged... not having a lot of luck with flex cables.. *g*

mac

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It's regional. Up there in Juneau where you live I hear it means "Rusted In Place"

-mike