I have to replace some elastic, 14 years old, that isn't elastic
anymore. It doesn't pull back.
Is there a way to determine how long the piece was in the first place.
I want to duplicate the original.
I guess I could tug the new stuff until it's as long as the old stuff is
now, and use that amount, but I'm not sure how taut to tug it. Is it
okay to stretch elastic "as far as it will go"? I figure that will ruin
Some of the pieces are 1" wide and some were 1/2" but for that I bought
5/8" because that's all I found at Jo-Anne's
It's going in my car, a 2004 Sebring. They used it to hold the top
liner up against the frame. This was not a secret. I was planning on
mentioning this in a later post, and this is a later post.
My first cars had no headliner and the two prior to this one used
velcro. In one case the velcro wore out, well, one half of it did. I
think it was the loops. I looked all over for velcro mounted on a stiff
backing, like the manufacturer had used, but couldn't find it. Ended up
drilling out the rivets that held the backing in place and using
self-adhesive which stuck much better than I expected.
Elastic may be a better idea, but I can't tell because after 13 years,
it's all stretched out.
It's funny, I looked at the elastic and a couple weeks later thought it
was 2 or 3 inches wide, but when I looked again, it was only 1 inch
wide, plus the part I hadn't seen before that was 1/2". So i got about
3 feet of each which I'm sure is enough. If it's not, they sell more. I
am not sure yet how many placesy have it. So far I've only found 2 or 3
places per side. I wonder if there really is some 2" stuff that I
haven't found this time. (It's been hot.)
My first answer to your post here doesn't actually get to the point.
The elastic is used to hold parts of the headliner up when the top is
up, so the elastic has to be short enough to hold things where they're
meant to be.
But when the top is lowered and the metal frame of the top folds into
three layers, the elastic has to be long enough, loose enough not to
So the best length seems to be what they used in the first place. But
the straps are longer than they were originally; they have no stretch,
so they're as long or maybe longer than their original stretched length.
So I'm trying to figure out how long they were when first installed, to
make mine the same length.
Pardon me for getting a chuckle from your post. Here I was
thinking,"just put the new elastic around [body part], add an inch
for overlap and done". I see now that it is not for clothing, but
for some sort of automotive(?) function. You may get better
instructions from a group for vintage car restoration, such as
alt.autos.antiques or alt.autos.[car maker].
:In alt.sewing, on Sun, 13 Aug 2017 18:54:04 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
:>> I have to replace some elastic, 14 years old, that isn't elastic
:>> anymore. It doesn't pull back.
:>> Is there a way to determine how long the piece was in the first place.
:>> I want to duplicate the original.
:>> I guess I could tug the new stuff until it's as long as the old stuff is
:>> now, and use that amount, but I'm not sure how taut to tug it. Is it
:>> okay to stretch elastic "as far as it will go"? I figure that will ruin
:>> Some of the pieces are 1" wide and some were 1/2" but for that I bought
:>> 5/8" because that's all I found at Jo-Anne's
:>What is this new elastic going in?
:It's going in my car, a 2004 Sebring. They used it to hold the top
:liner up against the frame. This was not a secret. I was planning on
:mentioning this in a later post, and this is a later post.
You can buy a complete replacement headliner for about $150 bucks.
You can get a new top, complete, installed, for $500 or so.
Factor that into your futzing trying to get the elastic to work.
Sorry, my answer might have sounded curt. I didn't mean to be that way,
but I had just priced a new top.
The rear window detached from the cloth beneath it, and I thought I
might either need a new window or I would have to glue it myself, which
would be very hard to do, but I came across a top shop who offered to do
it, for only $200 - $300. He didn't guarantee it but he said if it
failed in 30 days, he'd let me apply half of that to a new top, (or
rear window I guess, but it's cheaper to get them both at once). That
was on the phone but at the shop he said $200 and changed the time to 6
The top and window was going to be 1575. Then he said, "Of course I
can't charge you the same price if I'm giving you credit for half of the
200. It would have to be 1650. I just laughed and laughed and managed
to say, so then you're only giving me 25 back. That's all I said but
while I was laughing he lowered it to 1600 and then to 1575 again.
The guy's a trip, but they've been in businss a long time. And they had
lots of good-looking cars in the shop. And his guy did glue it and
it's been 2 weeks and still looks good.
I also priced my previous car the same day and it was also about 1500.
Even a top and window alone, so one can do it himself, for the Sebring,
with a plastic window (this vendor doesn't have glass), which is far
worse than glass and only good for 2 years if you park outside, is 460
or 520, depending on the fabric.
and for the Toyota with glass it's 520 or 650
Not installed, and no mention of a headliner, which they might not stock.
It's probably been a long time since you shopped for one of these.
Prices keep going up.
Or 150 is actually what you said
I figure it will take about 2 hours, but no time will be needed to take
it to the shop or pick it up. About 90 minutes round trip x 2.
Plus not everyone does but I like working on the car. I just bought it
and I had to fix the windshield washer, wiring to one fog light, and the
heater fan only had high speed. I fixed them all.
Those are good ideas. Still I thought you guys would have more
experience with elastic that car people, who normally don't use it.
But I guess neither of you need to measure stretched elastic to figure
out how long it used to be. Instead you decide how long you want to
Except I nearly always use quarter-inch elastic, so it's half an inch
of overlap, at most.
Once I sewed both ends to tape so it could meet exactly end-to-end,
but I've forgotten what I was making and why I did it.