step jaws instead of jamchucking?

The chuck works fine but pad the jaws. I use a strip of bicycle inner tube.

Ken Miller

John I have for many years used a Set of Mini Button Jaws I made that allow me to hold anything down to 70mm [2¾"] internal diameter a full description can be found on my web site in the Hints and Tips section.

I made some wooden jaws for my small Vicmarc, a picture is here:

turned the jaws in place, while a short piece of 3/4" steel rod was gripped in the center by the jaw slides. I mada a simple drilling jig to accurately drill the screwholes in the jaws, as I knew I'd have to make more sooner or later.

Ken Grunke

John,

Another option is the Longworth Chuck which is a shop-made selfcentering chuck for bowls. I have two and both work reasonably well. Not too difficult to put together and very inexpensive as well (I have $8 in one and $21 in another...the more expensive one sports it's own faceplate which is permanently mounted on the chuck).

I think it's Fred Holder's site (Fred...thanks for the info for building mine!) has a wonderful description on how to put one together.

only difference between the one shown and mine is that I used rubberbottle stoppers from my local homebrew store (already has the hole drilled)instead of what is recommended. Here is a link to another site for a quick look at one....

is the Coulee Region Woodturners web page.Anyway.....I rather like mine and use it a good bit for finishing bowlbottoms. Have used it on bowls up to about 14 inches....and down to somepretty small stuff as well. YMMV Peace.... Spencer Ten Mile, TN

Hi John,

I love turning small boxes with simple lines and let the wood grain speak for itself. I have two Talon chocks. One has #2 jaws and one has the expanding step jaws. There will be some marking to the inside of the box base. The trick is using sharp tools and a light touch so the chuck does not have to be too tight. Using the tail center for support can be a big help for most of the task. I would buy them again in a heartbeat. Might even consider trying to dip the jaws in the plastic used to coat tool handles. I will have to try this and see how well it works.

I usually turn tenons on both ends of the workpiece. Part off the top and turn a lip on the bottom. Then hollow the bottom and do some shaping of the base. Finish inside and out and part off the bottom with a slight concave arc to the base. Mount the top and do some basic shaping then hollow the top to get a snug fit on the base. Sort of (gasp) jam chuck if you will and need to do any finish work to the base. You can use this (gasp) method to finish the entire bottom and use the tail center for support if you like. Pop off the bottom and make the final cut to make the lid fit to your taste. The process sort of provides a jam chuck automatically. Part the top from its spigot, apply some finish and you are done.

Boxes are one of my favorite turnings because getting proper fitting tops or lids is excellent practice. I also like the step jaws on the inside of the lid when making a final cut for a good fitting finial of contrasting wood. I usually pre drill the hole before parting off the lid at the beginning. Sometimes I add a contrasting wood to the base but only when I manage to blow a hole in the original base! ;)

I think the expanding step jaws are well worth the money!

Dan "Eccentric by Nature"

A way I grip easily damaged items is to remove the jaws and replace them with the rubber buttons from my Coles jaws.

Works great for small things such as turned boxes.

You can get a bunch of spares with screws from One-way.

Bob