Thanks!

Thanks for all the good advice! I have turned a few spindles and other various practice pieces before moving on to what I thought were good 'starter' projects in goblets and glasses. My coffee mug actually came out rather well and I think I will look into a Hunter hollowing tool. I can get them right at Woodcraft. Tool control and sharpening are not new at all to me. I've done much cabinetmaking as well as carving through the years, so I definetly know the value of a sharp tool. I was actually taught to sharpen a chisel by an older gentleman I used to work with whos lathe work was the inspiration for my own lathe. He used nothing more than a slow speed Delta shopmaster single wheel water grinder with a modified table and 600 or finer grit paper on a dowel or square block for the final edge. Sounds almost caveman to sharpen a $60+ chisel that way, but believe it or not, the edges are razor sharp, the method is quick, and the tool works perfectly.

Reply to
marc
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SNIP

Don't be closed minded about how you approach a craft, and don't be intimidated by someone that has spend $$$$$ on tools. If that old fella can teach you to sharpen that way and it works well for you, that's the what you should look at doing.

You may change you methods of sharpening your lathe tools later, but then again... maybe not. I still use a my old jig setup that I made out of red oak (extension arms) and planed yellow pine (base). It works perfectly on spindle and roughing gouges without any other modifications or holders.

But in order to speed things up and to quit unnecessarily grinding my bowl gouges a few years ago I bought a Vari Grind tool holder to fit in my jig when they were on sale at Woodcraft. This allows me to grind the same exact profile every time, which in itself is a time saver, not to mention a metal saver. Most importantly it allows me to experiment with the actual grind I like over and over, then insure that I can repeat the one I am most happy with.

So I have a 10 year old version of the Woodcraft grinder that is on sale for $80, and my two jigs, one made of shop scrap. That's it. My cost is probably less than your old buddy's.

I'll bet most here are doing something similar. Unless you have some really fine quality tools that will SUSTAIN the edge a Tormek (or the new Jet Tormek knockoff) will give you, I wouldn't worry much about a microfine/mirror finish bevel edge that these machines will give you.

I sharpen at the grinder first.. Then I take a shaped waterstone that sits in a plastic peanut butter jar full of water next to the grinder and I knock of any kind of roughness on the edge and hone it as much as a few quick swipes will do.

Cost of grinder with soft wheels: $80 Wood for grinder base/extension arms: scrap Cost of Varigrind holder: $28 Cost of two tee nuts and bolts for knobs: $2

I use this setup on every tool I sharpen on the lathe, regardless of cost. A good edge is a good edge, and that's what you want.

Glad you are having fun turning. Hope you stick around and post away!

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

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