turning a vase.

If you do decide to bore it Brian I would suggest the Canadian National anthem......That always bores the hell out of me...........:-) All kidding aside. If you have the tools to bore it then by all means do so. At least that will get most of the wood out. I suggest a Forstner bit. Now about the Arbutus.............unless it has spectacular figure I would suggest using it for it's intended purpose..........Firewood.............:-)

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M.J. Orr

You could. Just be aware that chip clearing is especially important with wet wood and deep borings. I use the big Chinese brad point bits Woodcraft sells. They're not great at holding an edge, but they are easily resharpened, and the flutes are pretty deep to move shavings. Clear often, and remember that there is a point and cutting edges below the depth you measure!

With green wood, don't put an insert in, unless it's flexible plastic (cigar tube) until the piece is dry, and the hole retrued. It'll pop glass tubes.

I am partial to boring a hole, then expanding the inside with a scraper shaped to cut on the side (several companies make them)

More to the point, I don't like to use inserts, whether glass or plastic. They limit the size of the interior. I pout the inside full of varnish (anything labeled as waterproof.) Let it stand about ten minutes to soak in, then pour it out. To be safe, let it dry a few days, then repeat the process. You can reuse the varnish you poured out, but for godsake label the can because you can re-use it but not for good finishing.

Bob Moody

I picked up two pointy gouges at the woodworking show a couple of years ago but never got the hang of using them. Maybe I'll try again.

Almost all my vases hold water. The varnish even fills pinhole knots. The only times I have had a problem were when I had not aged the wood long enough and got a bad split a week or so after the vase was finished.

Don't understand your comment about cork. Where do you use it?

Bob Moody

I cork the top and shake the finish for distribution.

Wonder if old varnish of questionable drying characteristics might not be just as good as fresh.

Guess I'll give it a try.

You don't have to use the pointy gouges in a "reverse" cut. I sink the nose in like a spoon bit, left wing cut out, right wing in. You can get pretty aggressive with a full inch of wing, or control the width of the shaving to your taste when using a half-inch detail like mine. The gouge is firmly supported throughout by a toolrest.

I'll try again with the pointy gouges.

Now I understand the cork. What I do is fill the vase plumb full with varnish so it soaks in everywhere. After ten minutes I pour back in the can all that I can, then put the vase upside down on a high tech rig--dixie cup and two popsicle sticks until I think it has drained. Wipe the lip off and let it dry. Throw the dixie cup away. Popsicle sticks too if you don't mind the loss.

By all means use any water resistant varnish as long as it is liquid. For cheapskates like me that is the only way to go.

Bob Moody