Turning green aspen

Newbie here...

I've been lurking (I reckon that's the right term) for a few weeks and am very impressed with the knowledge and expertise that shows up in this group.

Very briefly, I've been into wood all my life. Taught high school woodworking for several years until moving into another position in education. The wood lathe was always almost therapeutic for me and I

-thought- I knew how to use all the tools properly. HA! Since getting back into the lathe with my little mini-Jet and doing a bunch of reading, I've discovered I had been not using several of the tools properly, so I've been re-educating myself on proper grinding and use of the tools. Also bought and used my very first bowl gouge in the last month. What a revelation - that thing works wonderfully.

Anyway, I've been turning some aspen (3"-8" diameter) that a neighbor harvested to clear space to build a cabin. This is also my first experience with turning green wood, so I don't have an experience base to know whether the green aspen is typical or not. I didn't expect it to dull the tools quite as quickly as it seems to, nor was I expecting it to gum up the tools as quickly as it does. The fibers seem to catch on the cutting edge and at that point it's stop and take care of business (clean, sharpen, strop, or whatever is necessary). First question - is this SOP for aspen and/or green wood?

I've turned everything from weed pots with a simple drilled hole in the center to my very first hollow vessel (looks sorta like an egg). The holes I drilled are ragged inside with lots of fibers (so that's a disappointment); I've tried both Forstner and spade bits. The bowls and hollow vessel had to be sanded a ton to get a decent surface - I'll even admit that I was unable to get a decent surface using tools and had to "finish turn" the bowls and vessel with abrasives. Question #2

- am I just needing more experience or is turning green aspen always going to need lots of sanding to get an acceptable surface?

I've not used anything except an English wax (sorry, senior moment prevents me from naming it) to finish the aspen. It seems to be slowing down the drying out process and, so far, is keeping the cracking down - and, it looks very good. I'd like to use some Watco Oil, tung oil, or even MiniWax polyurethane finish to get a more permanent finish but I don't know how long the items need to dry before attempting those.

I realize I haven't asked very many questions. I guess I'm really just looking for replies from anyone that has also turned aspen to see what their experiences were. And, I'm also establishing a little contact with a very knowledgeable group.

thankie.

Reply to
cuchara.red
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Turning free and available wood is a great way to break in.

As to aspen/popple, it's not so much that it dulls the tools as it requires special sharpness and careful cutting angles because its fine-fibered, soft and stringy. Once the bark's gone, with the grit it holds, it shouldn't be too bad in the dulling department. Only corrosion from the juices to dull the edge. Couple that with a tendency to grain reversals, where you unexpectedly find yourself lifting up the grain where you thought you were running down hill, and it can be a furry experience. If you turn dry, things are much easier.

As to drying, it's almost bullet proof. Very difficult to get aspen to crack, though it will sometimes, because of the interlocked grain, warp in unexpected direction or dimension and render an otherwise safe thickness rough incapable of being turned back round. Use any of the methods of slowing the moisture loss if your relative humidity is real low, only don't slow it so much - e.g. plastic bag - that it mildews. Those black spots will run into aspen quickly.

Lots of people put oil finishes on real early in the drying process, even without it. Makes for some sticky days, but when the oil cures, you know you're ready for the second coat. I like the temperature test, where you touch your lips to the piece to see if it's cool - by evaporation - compared to other objects. For better sensitivity find a mother - they can detect half a degree of fever on their child's forehead.

Reply to
George

I turn lots of Aspen. Prefer turning it green, sharp tools and a decent speed results in fairly clean cuts. Microwave dries quickly, scorches real easy, watch it.

Turned some the same day I cut it. Messy. I was soaked to the skin, but what a blast. LLLLLooonnnggg ribbons of wood flying over the shoulder.

Reply to
Bill B

Hi Cuchura

I have turned a few bowls out of some aspen I brought along out of BC a number of years ago, and also poplar and willow from the area over here in Southern Ontario Canada, the problem with aspen/popular/willow is there are a number of different species in that group, something like

350 species worldwide and 35 or so native, then we have natural and manmade hybrids, so turning willow and popular and aspen is not always the same. Most are fuzzy like yours, some less so, colors range from a muddy white to a light golden tan, and from just plain wood to a really beautiful shimmering chatoyance. Light weight wood that does not split readily when drying, but it is soft and easily dinged and damaged. I find with the willow and aspen/ poplar that the presentation of the tool makes a big difference, you really have to hold it so that it cuts or better slices, and of course the tool has to be sharp. Try to keep your shapes with no abrupt changes and when sanding don't go for the real course paper, or you have a lot of torn grain to clean up. There are a couple of willow/poplar turnings in my albums, take a look if you like.

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Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

Ah, you do beautiful work Leo. I had looked at your album before. Thanks for the reply.

Reply to
cuchara.red

"...fine-fibered, soft, and stringy." You're obviously speaking from experience. That's a perfect description for what I'm seeing.

Thanks for info on oil finish and testing for dryness. I'll give it a try.

Reply to
cuchara.red

Microwave for drying, huh? I'll give that a try. Any time/power suggestions?

I've got a sackful of those long ribbons. Seeing those come off was a real hoot.

I like your sig. Good philosoply.

Reply to
cuchara.red

Where are you located?

I th> Newbie here...

Reply to
william kossack

If you want to get a headstart with understanding green timber, John Jordan has a very intersting DVD available that contains discussions about it, "The Aethetics and Properties of Wood". Actually two DVDs and unlike most "turning" videos, there is next to turning at the lathe shown.

Very worthy of several viewings as there are many pieces of useful information contained within his discussions.

Safe turn>Newbie here...

Reply to
Alan

Reply to
JimC

Hi Leo,

What is chatoyance?

JimC

snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com wrote:

Reply to
JimC

Hi Jim

Comes from chatoyer, which would mean roughly shimmer, and chatoyance means the bands of reflected light, caused by aligned inclusions, like in gem stones, especially when cut. So the chatoyance in wood is the shimmering lines and waves etc., we see in wood, especially showing up when smooth and polished.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

It's the cat's (chat) eye, rather than the meow. Iridescence like tiger-eye or lapis in stones, or curly woods.

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Reply to
George

Try the lowest power setting, only a couple of minutes. The idea is to just warm the wood. If it is too hot to hold you are overdoing it. Let it cool for about 15 minutes and do it again. After several cycles it will not have any damp feel when you take it out.

Microwaves excite water molecules, turning them to vapor. It then dries from the inside out, instead of the outside in which is why wood usually checks.

Reply to
Bill B

"Where are you located? I think most here in Denver don't bother with green aspen..."

I'm in the Dallas/Ft Worth, Texas area - but my green aspen came from south of La Veta, CO. That's where I'm building a cabin and harvesting my neighbor's cut green aspen (HE cut it, not me). I'm also using standing dead aspen for trim in the cabin. It would be nice to turn, but not until I've used what I need otherwise. All the SDA cutoffs will come back to DFW with me for later turning.

Reply to
cuchara.red

If you can I recommend letting it dry a bit.

I f> "Where are you located?

Reply to
william kossack

Hi Jim

Here's an example of Chatoyance

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Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

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