Upgrading (?) a Nova Chuck

I have one of the original style Nova Chucks - OK, it's old, but so am I!. I am considering buying a set of the serrated jaws (45 mm) since I sometimes have problems with "larger" pieces and/or unbalanced rough outs. I use a Nova TL

1500, usually make stuff that is 10 inch diameter or less. Do the serrated jaws give that much better gripping power or should I bite the bullet and buy a Stronghold??

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

Reply to
Kip055
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Try the Oneway serrated jaws on the Nova chuck.

Reply to
Joe Moran

Hey Kip,

Funny you should ask this. I've had problems with a non-serrated chuck tonight making some ~12" salad bowls. I'd be hollowing them out and have the piece work its way loose a little with the 4 bowls I done tonight. I've been using my Talon (which is serrated) a lot over the last half year and decided to go back to this old chuck and see if I could tell a difference. For me there's a big difference. I think I've just become so used to the Talon and being able to really hog things out that going to this other chuck isn't doing very well.

I've never had the slightest bit of wood loosening with the Talon and I credit much of it to the serrations. My blanks are pretty rough too. I don't take the time or effort to round out my blanks on the bandsaw. If I can't get it round enough with the chainsaw then it doesn't need to be turned.

I don't think you'll be disappointed with a Stronghold but I also don't know if you need more than just the serrated jaws for your Nova chuck either.

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

Hi Kip, If you really want a new chuck you can't go wrong with a stronghold or a vicmarc but if it's holding power you want nothing beats a faceplate. For turnings 10" or under you could buy a half a dozen oneway 4" faceplates for the price of a chuck and jaws. How long does it really take to put in a few screws and you have the best mounting you can get. If your a production turner buy a stronghold.

Bob, Naugatuck Ct.

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Reply to
Bob Pritchard

Lots more gripping surface with the serrated jaws. It's contact area that counts, and they make their own when tightened. I've hung out 15" long 12" diameter logs on mine. Just remember that a single tightening isn't always enough, they will "work" a bit, even in dry wood, and may require another tightening. If you just have to have a jazzier chuck, go ahead, but it's not really necessary.

I've got two regulars and a super, and keep 1" pin jaws, 2" regular, and

45mm tenon jaws on the trio for best variety and utility.
Reply to
George

Reply to
Tony Manella

Would any of your jaws be the 45mm?

Reply to
George

Mine are.......love 'em. They do grip! Barry

stronghold,

Reply to
Barry N. Turner

Question for those who might know regarding use of other Oneway parts on the Super Nova chuck. Oneway offers chuck spurs, ie, spur drives that mount in the chuck. Will these fit the Nova? Bill K

Reply to
BillK

I was just wondering at the comparative "superior," when you didn't appear to have the item in question. As an owner/user, the Nova 45mm jaws work great as grips. As indicated above, I've exceeded the capacity of the original poster's lathe with mine, no problems, though a generous tenon depth on wet wood is a good idea.

Do you still have to remove the safety stop to mount Oneway stuff to a Nova, or is that only for some pieces? Seems another reason to go with the original.

Reply to
George

Reply to
Joe Moran

Hmmm. 12" on the 2" dovetails is good here. Sometimes, for "art's" sake I even use the 1" to give a fade to null effect. Do you keep the piece between centers until final cuts? I find that saves me a lot of potential grief.

Reply to
George

No, I do nearly everything with the blank mounted in the chuck. Between centers I true up the blank, add a chucking point, and perhaps do a little rough shaping on hollow forms. On bowls, I definitely rough shape the profile before reversing into the chuck. The size of the chuck has no bearing on the size of the foot of the completed bowl since I always reverse the piece again to finish the foot.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

Reply to
Mike Paulson

I use the other center even when the piece is in the chuck, which is why I asked.

I have the pin jaws which I use for roughing outside, and I rough inside, leaving the "pillar" with its 1" hole for remounting if it's wet wood, or remove it at the last when the piece is being final turned.

Reply to
George

Oh, now I understand what you are doing. Yes, support from the tail center can make all the difference. Good idea.

-mike

Reply to
Mike Paulson

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