I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't had any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..
This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width of his planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..
Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
It does help, and if you have the room, an 8 foot melamine surface is even better than 4 feet. You only lose 3/4 inch or so of thickness, and it's rare to need it all. On the other hand, you might want to give hand-planing a look for an even better result, no thickness or width constraint, and a whole lot quieter.
Yes.
Thanks.. I might try it.. Maybe my brother isn't as nutz as I thought..
Nah, he's pretty spaced out.. lol
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Hi I find if I push a stick right behind the stick I am planing I don't get snipe on either at this intersection
Sure. Cuts down on the angle the board can achieve tipping up into the cutter or down out of it. Those with lunchbox planers lacking good pressure rollers and chipbreakers often use this, as well as the waste follow or angled entry to control snipe. If you feed with the trailing end of the board elevated slightly at entry and elevate the leading end as it exits, you can control it perfectly as well.
Downside is the drag, of course.
Makes sense.. I have the Ridgid 2 blade model, that I might turn on some day... To much fun turning to do flat work.. *g*
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required