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I hope someone can give me advice - quickly!  I have a Husqvana Rose
machine, and haven't used it for a long time.  Yesterday I managed to get it
working, and did a few tests on scraps, before putting them on a t-shirt for
my granddaughter for Christmas.

Then I ran out of bobbin thread, and after being unable to make the winder
work, I took the embroidery unit off, and finally wound a few bobbins this

All went well until I discovered that the needle was at the extreme left of
the possible positions, which of course doesn't fit the embroidery foot.  I
couldn't change it, until I took off the embroidery unit again, but each
time I put the unit back, the needle jumps back to the left position again.

What am I doing wrong?  I can't find any other position for the foot, to
line it up with the needle, or any other instructions in the manual to
change its position.

I'm hours away from the nearest agent, and it's Sunday anyway!  Please help!

Joyce in RSA.

Re: HELP!!!
I can help with the bobbin situation. When you have your embroidery
unit on the machine the foot controller pedal is deactivated. Put a
bobbin on the spindle and thread it up. Then press the "run" button.
When the bobbin is full press the "run" button again.

I'm puzzled as to the needle being to the extreme left. Do you turn
the machine off  to take the embroidery unit on or off? You should. Is
the presser foot up? It should be up.  Do you turn the machine off
before inserting or removing the design card? You should. Is the
design card inserted in the machine? It should be.


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Re: HELP!!!
Thanks for trying to help.  Not long after I posted, my modem gave up the
ghost altogether, so I had no option but to wait for replies until Monday,
when I was able to phone the dealers.

Technicians were all away on holiday, but I was eventually directed to a
very kind and efficient lady who tried to help.  After I'd tried her
suggestions, we decided whatever was wrong necessitated opening up the
machine, so it has to wait, and go to the agents after Christmas, with my
DD, who lives close to them.  Emily thinks it could be a piece of thread
broken off inside.

I'll ask them to look at the bobbin problem too, as I did try the "run"
method first.  It just didn't run!  Even using the foot pedal I had to move
the needle each time before the bobbin started turning.  DGD will have to
wait until after Christmas to get her completed teeshirt!

I have a new modem now, not before time after several partial hits by

Joyce in RSA.

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Re: HELP!!!
Not about the embroidery but the lightning.

Make sure your machine and anything connected to it are all plugged
into one powerbar with surge protection and the modem phone line also
so goes through it. This means your computer, machine, monitor, modem,
and anything else there is a cable going to from your computer or
embreoidery machine (assuming they are connected together). This makes
sure all the devices are at the same potential despite lightining or
other surges. Without a difference of voltage on bad surges (lightning
etc..) the equipment has no place for the electricity to travel
through to. IN other words the lightning may travel into your
equipment but cannot go out the other side and should do much less

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Re: HELP!!!
I have had surge protectors, but have been told that when hit they lose the
power to protect, and one doesn't know when they've been hit!  Permanent
ones cost too much for my pocket, so there doesn't seem to be a solution.
The hits on computer equipment all seem to come via the phone line anyway,
although the phone itself is not affected, unless it's a cordless phone, so
my solution is to unplug the phone line, as well as the pc, as soon as
there's any thunder or lightning around.  A couple of times, though, it's
come out of the blue, with absolutely no warning!  Blue sky, sunny and
bright, and suddenly a great crack!  Weird!

The Rose is plugged in only when I use it, so is not normally vulnerable.

Joyce in RSA.

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Re: HELP!!!
That is the way I do with all my sewing machines, Joyce.  I never leave them
plugged up when not in use.  I have an excellent surge protector on the
computer, even so, I don't leave it turned on all the time like some of my
children/grandchildren do.

Re: HELP!!!
The trouble is a switch will not stop a damaging hot of lightning
coming down your wires. It jumps across the open contacts if bad

The unplugging is a good idea if you have over service wires coming
into your home. I have underground feeds and I never worry about any
of that stuff.

The power bar should smell if it gets hit bad enough to damage it. I
install these little MOV devices from time to tiem on our equipment at
work and if they get hit real bad they explode open and you can hear
the pop and smell the burn. Inside a power bar? who knows? Some have

I would use them as well as the all into one unit advice if I lost my
valuable equipment to this. Get a highly rated unit. They vary in
protective ability. I fthe lightning cannot go through to somewhere
else it cannot do damage. Lightning is looking to get to earth. You
computer and machine are grounded and provide that path so lightning
coming in the phone line will go back out the ground line and vice

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Re: HELP!!!
Joyce wrote:
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  If power bar 'smells', then it is grossly undersized - ineffective.
Undersizing promotes more sales of extremely profitable (grossly
overpriced) products.  One minimally effective protector earths
transients AND you never knew a transient happened.  That 'smelly'
power bar does not meet 'minimal'.   A protector that self destructs -
grossly undersized - also costs tens of times more money per protected
appliance.   A protector damaged by a surge provided ineffective

   Common source of modem damage is AC mains.  Surge that seeks earth
ground often damages modem's DAA section; where modem connects to phone
line.  Others then 'assume' surge from AC mains must have entered on
phone line.   Modem is often repaired by simply replacing only one PNP
transistor.  That less than 'half Euro' transistor was in the path from
AC mains to phone wire.  Modems are often that easy to fix because the
damage is so often same - enters on AC mains.

   All appliances have internal protection - already contain what a
power cord protector would hope to accomplish.  So that appliance
protection is not overwhelmed, a protector must earth before a
transient can even enter the building.  Electronics in a path to earth
ground are easily damaged.  Effective protectors must have a dedicated
earthing wire; a less than 3 meter connection.  No earthing wire (such
as on grossly undersized power bars) means ineffective protection.  It
is undersized to promote more sales - ie the 'smell'.  Grossly
undersized promotes sales to the naive AND profits higher profits with
each protector.

  Protectors so grossly undersized as to 'smell' and 'lose power to
protect' are sold on hype by pricing them higher.  IOW take a $7 from
the grocery store, cover it in fancy paint, and sell it for $100.  Some
will claim it is a 'high quality' only because it is so expensive.
More problems with those 'quality' protectors:

  You had modem damage that is often due to an AC mains surge.  Besides
sewing machine and modem, other appliances to protect are smoke
detectors and heating system; essential to human life. These are also
protected by only one 'whole house' protector.  Plug-in protectors
cost tens of times more money per protected appliance, are often
grossly undersized to 'smell', and without earthing cannot protect
from the typically destructive type of surge..

  How to identify an inferior appliance protector.  1) No dedicated
wire to earth - an absolutely essential connection.  2) Manufacturer
avoid all discussion about earthing.  Look at their numerical specs.
Instead, facts are withheld so that the naive will assume all surges
are same.  No earth ground means no effective protection - from a
typically destructive type of surge.

  Anything that plug-in protector might accomplish is already inside
each appliance.  Internal protection that is overwhelmed when surges
are not earthed before entering a building.  Again, what defines the
effective protector?  A less than 3 meter connection to earthing. No
way around that principle even defined in IEEE and British Standard

  Two posts that discuss protection and household wiring problems are
in rec.crafts.textiles.quilting on 25 Apr 2005 and 4 May 2005 entitled
"OT - irons and computerized sewing machines" at

  More details are in rec.crafts.textiles.sewing  on 6 Dec 2003
entitled  "CAUTION: power outage DANGER!" at

Re: HELP!!!

For accurate information on plug-in surge suppressors try John Bengi.

Or the best information I have seen both surges and surge protection at
- the title is "How to protect your house and its contents from
lightning: IEEE guide for surge protection of equipment connected to AC
power and communication circuits"  published by the IEEE in 2005 (the
IEEE is the dominant organization of electrical and electronic
engineers in the US).

And a second guide is
- this is the "NIST recommended practice guide: Surges Happen!: how to
protect the appliances in your home"  published by the National
Institute of Standards and Technology (the US government agency
formerly called the National Bureau of Standards) in 2001

Both guides were intended for wide distribution to the general public
to explain surges and how to protect against them. The IEEE guide is
aimed at people who have some technical background. The NIST guide is
aimed at mere mortals.

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Because of his religious belief in earthing w_ can not understand how
plug-in suppressors work. As described in the IEEE guide, they work
primarily by clamping, not earthing.

Both the IEEE and NIST guides say plug-in surge suppressors are

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"Undersized" is a "straw man". Plug-in suppressors are available with
ratings from junk to very high.

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If you don't have technical arguments you try pathetic scare tactics

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For anyone with minimal reading skills, the hanford  link talks about
"some older model" power strips and specifically references the
revised UL standard, effective 1998, that requires a thermal disconnect
as a fix  for overheating MOVs. Overheating was fixed in 1998.
None of these links say the damaged suppressor had a UL label. None of
them say plug-in suppressors are not effective, or that they should not
be used, or that there is a problem under the UL standard that has been
in effect since 1998.

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The religious earth mantra again - not shared by the IEEE or NIST. And
numerical specs are readily available for plug-in suppressors.

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Religious mantra #3. The IEEE published the IEEE guide that says that
plug-in suppressors are effective.

As John said, all interconnected equipment has to be connected to the
same surge suppressor or connections to other equipment (including
phone, cable-TV, ...) have to also go through the suppressor.

Suppressors can 'wear out'. If selected with a high Joule (energy)
rating they will last a long time. The IEEE guide describes 2 ways a
suppressor can connect the protected load - either across the MOVs
(protective devices) or directly to the incoming line. If connected
across the MOVs, if the MOVs wear out they will be disconnected and the
load along with them - a warning that the protector has failed.
Suppressors also should have lights that indicate whether they are

For John - voltages above about 6000V produce arc-over in panels or
receptacles reducing the likelihood of arcing across an open switch.


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