Extra fabric for framing

So, how much fabric to people REALLY leave on the sides of their project for framing/finishing? I usually go for 5", but I finally decided to try a scroll frame, and it's not quite big enough. I'm working on Mirabila's The Dreamer at 28ct, and the stitching width is about 12". My frame's 20". Trimming the fabric down to fit leaves me with 4". Think my framer will be happy with me? Or should I go for a bigger scroll frame?

This is the project I had on q-snaps, but with it being almost 30" long, I want the ability to roll it up easier.

Thanks! Allura

------ WIP: The Dreamer, Clean Dog Cross Stitch News:

formatting link
formatting link
's Ramblings:
formatting link

Reply to
Allura
Loading thread data ...

My ONS figures it at 3" a side when she's kitting up a chart for me.

But if you're going to double- or triple-mat something (which I never do), then 4 or 5 is probably better.

Reply to
Karen C - California

I don't normally leave more than 3 or 4" and my framer has never said anything about needing more. That's even what I leave for needlepoint which needs actual blocking and sometimes needs to be pulled and stretched into shape.

Lucille

Reply to
Lucille

The figure most shops/framers give is 3". IF you have a good, experienced with stretching/fitting needlework framer - they can certainly do it with as little as 1", or less (I can recall doing some with about 1/2" ) but that's difficult to do well. If you're planning on matting the piece, a larger margin of extra fabric makes it more straightforward for the framer. If there is say only 2" of fabric around, so when stretched there is about 3/4" of linen showing, and you're going to put a 3" wide mat on it, then the framer has to piece in a supporting backing next to the needlework piece - so that the mat is properly supported. The back - under the dustcover - will hide what looks like a bit of a puzzle. With a good framer - you'll never know - it may reflect a little bit in what they charge for labor.

So, to be safe - 3" all around is really good - when I worked at the LNS?framer that was what we used as a standard. But, certainly 2.5" is fine as well. Going under 2" makes it a tough thing to frame. If you're going to do a soft finish, like a bell-pull, or pillow - that can be done with about

1" margin (minimum).

BTW - have you tried your handi-clamp scroll?????

Ellice - who's been swamped with work plus and off line for a while. And now off to softball

Reply to
ellice

It won't if you use basketweave (diagonal tent stitch) lol (RDH)

Reply to
lucretia borgia

That's a good plan. I have though, when winging it with samplers of my own making, got down to the wire and in two instances only left about 1/2 inch. The meant when off the frame I had to stitch another piece of fabric along the bottom. The matte covered the join, so it worked but is not particularly recommended, but a rescue operation if all else fails.

Reply to
lucretia borgia

I do use basketweave and it doesn't need very much stretching, however, it still has to be blocked a little. Sometimes, even with basketweave, a little pulling is necessary if there are a lot of tiny areas with one or two stitches or 10 stitches in a straight line.

Now if you could fly here and show me the right way to do lacing that would be nice. I've done it from a picture and it just doesn't seem to come out perfect.

L
Reply to
Lucille

If the truth be told I've had to do that even with a needlepoint and that's tricky. It's hard to join needlepoint fabric without a lump. I probably could have done it with a muslin, which would have been thinner, but I didn't think of it at the time.

Reply to
Lucille

Remind me when my nice pc is back and operating and I will scan some pages from a book I have that explains lacing very well. Easy once you do it correctly once. I rarely buy anything except the frame. Gold/silver work would be the exception, they are tricky to stretch and really need to be severely stretched and well pinned down, so if I do a piece I 'treat' myself to the full meal at the framers lol

Reply to
lucretia borgia

Yup, that's what prompted this. I had the piece on q-snaps before, and when I went to move it to the handi-clamps, I realized it was way too much fabric for the frame. I tried folding it over like I would with the q-snaps, but it just doesn't give enough tension. I'm always nervous about cutting fabric (and it was midnight when I posted that, so I wasn't going NEAR it with scissors), esp since I've already started stitching.

The frame is 20" long - do I trim the fabric to that (leaving me 4" on a side) or do I need to go down to 18" (3"/side)?

Any tricks for getting the tension nice and tight on a scroll frame? The ladies at Scarlet Thread (I had a chance to check out this store in VA on Thursday - it's great!) mentioned some sort of suspender- style clip to tension the sides; any links for those?

This project is driving me mildly nuts, between my stand not holding the q-snaps, the fabric being just in the way, etc. I just want to stitch! That's what I get for picking such a BAP. :) I'm reassured to hear though that 5" is excessive, and that 3" is just fine.

Thanks, Allura

------ WIP: The Dreamer, Clean Dog Cross Stitch News:

formatting link
formatting link
's Ramblings:
formatting link

Reply to
Allura

Pick me up at the airport. :)

Reply to
Karen C - California

Nordic Needle has the little suspender clips for q-snaps. They're at

formatting link

Louisa

Reply to
Louisa.Duck

Hi Allura, Trim the fabric to the 20 inches, or even down to 18, whichever makes life easier for you. I'd actually recommend at least a little less than 20 inches so you have a bit of clearance to the sides of the scroll frame. Since I'm fairly sure I know who your framer is (grin) I can promise they're fine if there's three inches/side, and have even worked with me with less than that. If you ever saw my framed Stretch, that only had two inches/side and turned out great! I was never able to get the side tension I liked with scroll frames, so I'm following your progress with interest! Heather in NY

Reply to
Heather in NY

atwww.NordicNeedle.com.

Hi Louisa, Do you know what they're actually called? I tried a search at NN for suspenders but nothing turns up. And I'd be *very* interested in this concept! Thanks! Heather in NY

Reply to
Heather in NY

The funniest part of this - we have them at the shop I'm working at. And I can't find them to save my life - because we totally rearranged the shop last week (Sunday including my poor DH moving huge spinners). And I know that they were hanging someplace, and I moved them - all by myself - and now can't find them. But, when I do, I'll post the name, etc. I'll be at the shop tomorrow and might have some luck.

They're essentially like short suspenders - with those type of clips - meant to attach to your fabric on the side and then somehow loop/attach to the side of the scroll frames so that you can get some sideways tension on your fabric (for those that feel the need for more than the tautness that the scroll provides).

Ellice

Reply to
ellice

atwww.NordicNeedle.com.

In the catalogue, they're called Stitch CLips, item no. 6934, and they are actually currently on sale, until September 5. I'm looking at my May sale flyer. They should be on the website, too.

Louisa

Reply to
Louisa.Duck

atwww.NordicNeedle.com.

Thanks a bundle! Now, has anyone actually used them? I'm a little concerned that they may pull a little too hard where they grip the fabric and pull it out of shape. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

TIA, Heather in NY

Reply to
Heather in NY

Found them; thanks! Link:

formatting link

Reply to
Allura

I know one person that uses them, and they seem to work for her. OTOH, she also stitches in hand some of the time. I don't know what that means, but thought I'd mention it in the vein of full disclosure ;^)

ellice

Reply to
ellice

I have them and use them. I like the tension I can maintain on larger pieces. It's up to you how tight you make them. Just remember it's a piece of fabric you're clipping them to so don't adjust them too tight! You want a good tension without distorting the fabric.

Mavia

Reply to
Mavia Beaulieu

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.