Help converting pattern for the math-impaired

This happens to a lot of people Debi! The thing is, you have to take the seam allowances off *first*; then double the lengths; and then add the half inch back again.

If you double it without doing that, you get double the seam allowances as well.

And don't forget also, that, if you double side lengths etc, you need

*four* times the amount of fabric - if that is relevant to what you are doing. . In message , Debi Matlack writes

This is a 4 X 4 grid. For a 12.5" block, the center square would be 6.5". The other squares 3.5". To sew the HSTs, you need to cut squares 3 7/8", cut in half diagonally for triangles. (Or sew a very scant quarter inch on each side of the diagonal. Press and make sure the finished square is 3.5".) Roberta in D

"Debi Matlack" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:76Pji.5112$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...

Thanks Roberta and Patti. I knew it had to be simpler than I was making it....Yeah, I didn't get rid of the seam allowances first. This is probably going to be scrappy so as long as I know how long to cut strips, I should be good. I appreciate it very much.

the general rule is subtract seam allowances before doubling, then add them back on again, if you double everything for a 6 inch finished block, you'll get a 12.5 inch finished block, rather than a 12 inch. Anne

I found a contrary wife 12" block. Perhaps that would help you convert your pattern.

Debi, You have already gotten the info to remember to remove the seam allowances, double the measurements and then add the seam allowances back on. However, I would probably make one more change to this block. Looking at the top left you have 3 'squares' that are a "triangle square" (composed of 2 HST) a square and another triangle square. When assembled they make a parallelogram with corners added to form a rectangle. I would cut 4 rectangles per block at 9 1/2" x 3 1/2", cut

2 background squares at 3 1/2". Draw a diagonal on the backs of the squares, place on the ends of the rectangle, sew on the diagonal line, then again a scant 1/2" towards the corner. Cut between the lines of stitching, which will give you the parallelogram you need plus a triangle square. These "left over" triangle squares will be about 2 3/4" square, or 2 1/2" finished. A good size for all sorts of things. You can even use them, if you make enough of the blocks, as a pieced border on your quilt. To join your parallelogram units to the center square of the block you do need to do a "partial seam" for the first one. That means you sew from the edge where the center and the parallelogram unit line up for a distance, leaving enough room at the other end , where the parallelogram will be longer than the center, to join the last section. Add the remaining parallelogram units, then finish the first seam. Works wonderfully well, and has fewer seams in it. Of course if you are going to make the parallelogram parts scrappy then this method won't necessarily work.

(Just checked, because I thought this block was familiar, > I want to make Contrary Husband blocks 12 inches instead of 6, found here at > this

link:

However, trying to figure it out is giving me a headache. Simply doubling > the measurements seems like it will make it bigger than needed. After the > fiasco I had this morning with making a quilt block, I'm asking for help > *before* I bugger up any more fabric.> Help?

The easiest way to do it is to draw it on a square that is the size you want the finished block to be. Measure the pieces, add your seam allowance, and THAT'S IT.

I like that idea Mary! No math...

That's what I would do too. Debra in VA See my quilts at