I've taken the plunge, and the linen suit project is well underway. Of course I can't just do the simple thing and follow the instructions, nooooo, I have to make improvements, and now I'm mightily puzzled.
I'm using Vogue 2853, a snazzy little Anne Klein number:
Problem is, the instructions for making the canvas front don't exactly work with the pattern, because of the dart that ends in the pocket. The tailoring book assumes a body dart that is pointed at both ends, but this one just ends and full width in the pocket slash, then the lower part of the jacket is cut narrower. you can't really sew the dart without slashing the pocket, whereas the tailoring book wants you to wait to cut the pocket till the front side piece is stitched on.
That would be way easier, I've already got one pair of fronts with wrinkles around the pockets. I'm ready to scrap those and try again - I've got plenty of extra fabric. I'm wondering if there is a way to stitch the dart and slash the pocket after, with the welts in and all.
My other source of confusion is more general. I went with silk organza interfacing for the back pieces (I just love that stuff!) and it is perfect
- crisp and lightweight. If I use the canvas in the front, the front, I'm afraid the front and back will be too different, and If I use the canvas in addition to the organza, it will be too heavy in front, but the organza by itself probably won't do the job.
I guess what I really want is something in between the easy RTW approach of the pattern instructions, but not quite so built up as the fully traditional tailored route. Any good suggestions - especially for a favorite book that will help?
Oh well, worst comes to worst I can try it a couple of different ways and chalk it up to learning experience.
-Liz