I have been getting some tear out in certain spots when turning the = inside and outside of some maple bowels. It seems to occur when there is a change in the density of the wood. It = is a pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice. Is this a matter of sanding, dull tools, type of wood, or changes within = the density of the wood being turned? Yes, I am a new turner. Any tips or advice appreciated.
Dan
That should be "Bowls"
Sorry about that.....Dan
Dan
On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:37:55 -0600, Dan Jefferson wrote (in message ):
Consider the use of a hand plane for smoothing a board. It will be the case that a change in the grain along the length of the board will result in a smoothing job that looks and feels wonderful except in those places where there is a change in the grain. No matter which direction you go with the plane, you will at some point be planing in the "wrong" direction. So it is with the lathe. Yes, it is a change in the density or perhaps the direction of the grain. Could be a burl or a swirl or a curl. Try the lightest touch with your chisel or gouge, to remove just a suspicion of wood with each pass, using the very sharpest cutting edge you can manage. Some turners will also treat the wood with some kind of penetrating liquid - a glue or varnish of some kind - to bolster or stiffen the fibers and make them less likely to tear or crush. I have never tried those products yet, myself, but many other turners here have experience with these methods. They will soon give you the details, I am sure. tom koehler
outside of some maple bowels.
pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
density of the wood being turned?
There is no easy answer, Dan, but "most" tearout is from either the tool not being sharp enough or your cutting/shearing angle being wrong..
If I make a few passes after sharpening and it's still tearing out, I throw in the towel and use a scraper.. Same as any tool, sharp and light cuts..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
outside of some maple bowels.
pain to smooth while the rest of the bowel cleans up really nice.
density of the wood being turned?
Hello Dan,
You've received some good replies and sharp tools is probably the reason for the tearout. However, you must realize that when turning a bowl there is alternating side grain and endgrain. The endgrain is the place where the tearout is most likely to happen. If the wood is slightly spalted or even starting to rot the end grain will be very difficult to completely avoid some tearout. I have a bowl in work now that is heavily spalted. A few passes with a very sharp chisel gave me tremendous tearout on the end grain portion. I soaked it for a day is Turner's Choice and let it dry for about three days and then remounted it. A pass with a sharp gouge and there was no longer tearout. I've found that Turner's Choice, which is expensive, makes any wood turn easier and with less tearout.
I have no relation to Turner's Choice except that they have been an advertiser in More Woodturning magazine. I believe their advertisement is in the sample issue available on my web site.
Fred Holder
Sharp tools are a must. Sharpen often, even before you really think you need to.
Set your speed as fast as you can safely, and move the tool into the cut slowly.
Make sure you're shearing and not scraping (rub the bevel).
...Kevin
Use the 120 grit gouge. Then use the 200, etc.
ROTFL!!!
Wimp, I've sometimes started with the 60 grit gouge
Yeah. I use that for roughing.....
Help me Mama, help me Mama I'm gonna lose it all right here.........hee hee George
"JoanD'arcRoast" >
Yep.. I power sand with 60 grit wave disks when needed.. Time may not always be money, but it's still time..
mac
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Do you ever have problems with the wave disks delaminating? I used to use the New Wave (yellow) disks but some seemed to have poor glue holding the fabric backing and with the least warming would sail off like a flying saucer.
I remember having that problem a few times, but not for a few years.. Maybe they changed adhesive or something.. I'm not real crazy about their Velcro, though.. doesn't seem to cling as well as other brands..
I like them for sanding inside bowls because of the edge protection, but can't use them on most of my stuff because they really suck on natural edges or "snags" on a piece.. Love the 3M PSA disks for that kind of stuff..
mac
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By far, I prefer the 800 grit scraper...
Bob
I want to thank all those that responded to subj.
All ideas had some positive effects on my turning. Now I need to = practice, practice, and more practice!
Dan J
practice, and more practice!
Dan.. practice is a GOOD thing, but get one-on-one help through a club or video.. I'm proof that you can practice the wrong methods for years if you don't learn them correctly and then practice them.. I really wish I would have taken a turning class 30 years ago..
mac
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Dan, First two tips are sharp tools (not recently sharpened but just sharpened) and correct technique (bevel and so forth If this fails on small areas, dont be bashful about 60 grit paper treatment If it fails on laqrger areas or on pith centers, use a wax and spirits paste on area to change fiber behavior. ....and practice good luck Norm
"Practice may not make perfect, but it certainly makes a lot of chips".... Dale Nish
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