Turning Punky wood

I am trying to turn a silver maple bowl with punky areas . I tried using thin CA glue but it does not seem to penetrate far enough to help much. Have any of you found anything that works better?

Reply to
G. Ross
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You might try

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performance-wood- hardener?WT.srch=1&gclid=CIOguKzbt7ICFQP0nAodXgQAHQ One of the guys in my Woodturner's Club (Alabama Woodturners Assn) recommended it to me. It is as effective as thin CA, without the fumes you get from CA if the wood is at all wet. The added advantage is, you can pour it in your bowl and let it set for awhile as it soaks into the wood.

Its not that expenisve, try it and see how it works.

Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

Thanks! Ordered some and will give it a try.

Reply to
G. Ross

I've had good luck with sharp tools and CA glue, I've also used wax and pentrating epoxy and white glue - it all depends on what you have and what you want to achieve. the key is what finish will you put over the thing when you are done and how does the glop you are putting on affect the finish.

Reply to
Bill

Let me know how it works for you. \ Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

Try a 1- or 2- lb cut of shellac. Soak the piece for a while, then let it dry. Be aware that it will change shape, as it absorbs the liquid.

John Pierce Maker of Fine Wood Chips and Sawdust

Reply to
woodgrinder

dry. Be aware that it will change shape, as it absorbs the liquid.

Thanks for the reply. I wound up using, I believe, Minwax wood hardener. Anyway the bowl has been finished and sold a couple of months ago.

Reply to
G.W.Ross

Or paint it liberally with thin CA glue. But be aware, IF there is any moisture in the wood (and with punky wood there always is) you are going to generate some serious fumes that will drive you out of the room, so do this either in a VERY well ventilated room or outside.

With either the shellac or the CA, you will probably have to reapply after you have have worked on it a bit.

The advantatge of the CA over the Shellac is drying time. While shellac dries quickly on the surface, it will take a bit longer deeper down. CA will be ready to go in a couple of minutes, or by the time the fumes clear.

Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

Agreed on the CA... I use "water thin" to soak in and harden the wood...

I always unscrew the lathe chuck and leave the piece mounted in it, and take it outside.. Not only toxic fumes but I've also had some wood that generated intense heat...

Reply to
Mac Davis

I've had some success using this wet rot hardener -

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It brushes on easily, soaks in well to penetrate deep into the wood and dries quickly. Seems to be cheaper than CA. Using too much can clog abrasive a little but that's the only downside that I've found.

Mac Davis said the following on 19/02/2013 17:15:

Reply to
Duncan Hoyle

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