Thanks for info! Mary
Mary, I can't comment about dental kilns, but I don't think you'd be very happy with the kiln listed at the link below.
You would have to batch anneal in it, it's very small, and manual controllers make it difficult to manage the temperature.
Just my opinion, of course, and I'm sure others will speak up with theirs.
T>
I think the kiln is basically a ring with the heating elements sitting on a base. If that is so, you can raise it off the base with kiln posts, using enough to make a temperature "seal", and leave a door to put your beads in with the mandrels. When you are through working, you can seal the door with Fiberfrax or a kilnpost. Or you can use it for batch annealing, which will not seal any cracks that were created during the initial cooling process. As far as maintaining the annealing temperature, since it has an infinite control switch, there should be a setting on it that will keep the temp steady at your annealing point. I have a different brand of kiln, but I have found that 3 1/2 will stay very close to 950F (and those pyrometers are not that accurate anyway) and 4 1/2 will stay at 1050F. Sometimes the temperature will creep up if I have been using it a long time. If you really want to test the sweet spot for annealing of a given glass in your kiln (even if it has a digital pyrometer, they are not all that more accurate that analog ones), take a rod of glass, secure it horizontally with firebrick with some length sticking out. Then slowly raise the temp of the kiln, checking through the peephole (not opening the lid or door) until the glass begins to move. Note the temperature and subtract 50F and the should give the reading for annealing that glass in that kiln better than any reference book or pyrometer. As far as dental kilns, any kiln that you can measure and hold at an annealing temp can be used for annealing.
Mary,
I had this kiln for about 8 months before I moved to the larger one. I absolutely love it! I may get another as backup as well.
I annealed beads in it very well. As soon as I could I would place the beads in the top with the mandrels sticking out. Worked great!
I can give you all the formulas for getting it to temp, where it should be for holding and what to put it on to anneal when finished.
It's a wonderful kiln and the person who has mine now absolutely loves it. It suites her purposes well.
And yes, you can batch anneal and I did for a while. Then I tried it with the mandrels sticking out and it did great too!
The exposed elements + mandrels make me nervous.
Tink
They made DH nervous too, but if you are careful it's okay. I never had a problem and I would highly recommend the kiln.
That's good to know. I'm such a safety freak, and I'd hate to see our Mary end up charbroiled. LOL! Good to know there are some affordable options out there. Sounds like a good kiln.
T>They made DH nervous too, but if you are careful it's okay. I never had a
I agree - also, it does not have a bead door. Bead doors are little doors on the front that swing open so you can stick the bead in right on the mandrel after you are done making it. Really a necessity for anyone making more than one or two beads in a sitting. Keeps the heat in instead of letting it all out like top-loaders do. Also, a digital controller makes everything really really easy. Infinite switches and manual controls are a huge pain, especially when you're new at this. You can get the whole kaboodle for a decent price these days. Here are some pics and specs for the Fusebox II, which is what I have:
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.