Insulating Panels

I hope this answers alot of questions, I did this for a great many years, and still do on occasion.

Builder insists? Be sure and tell him what the insulating factory will most likely tell you, "if there is anything sealed inside the unit, there is no warranty" (this does exclude their own extruded aluminum mullions) be sure and ask at the factory.

Low e and clear are two different things, but if he is insisting on Low e, there is a glare involved that will prevent the leaded unit from being seen from the exterior during the day. ( The more you know about this subject, the more intelligent the conversations between you and the builder.) Low e becomes more efficient when used together with argon gas. This usually means a double seal process, generally not a problem. It does matter what method of sealing is used. The factory may make suggestions for you. 3 ply? leaded insert stacked and sandwiched by the "airspace" material or is it wrapped around the insert? This will determine what works for the argon gas. Personally I stayed away from it, used clear glass, no Low-e, no argon, 3-ply seal, 1" overall thickness, the window company will determine you overall thickness for you, you just have to meet it. Co-ordinate effort between you, the insulators, and the window company.

To answer further questions 'by the number:

1) either, but end result must be ABSOLUTELY clean, slightest smudge or fingerprint will mean a re-do. 2) I do, but the grout must be absolutely dry before it is sealed otherwise you will get "off-gassing" (my term) or a cloudiness, that does not go away or get absorbed by the desiccant. the desiccant absorbs moisture in the dead air space, not the resulting moisture from the turp or linseed oil. Make sure it is dry, 2-3 days after cementing at least. 3)Ask the shift/plant supervisors about their experience level and suggest you assist them until you feel comfortable having them do it on their own. They would probably appreciate someone showing them how they should do it, alot different from handling sheets that are solid. 4) no book I know of, but you need a separate room, exhaust air, no dust and clean the glass with a mechanical glass washer, (see BILCO products), just before insulating, have the airspace handy to make it up, and then gun it with the 2 part Poly sulphide material and have the place to leave it sit undisturbed for several hours while it cures. I do it myself on the odd occasion when I must. Admittedly, it is a pain in the butt and a time waster to do myself. not physically demanding though. 5)Desiccant is embedded in (See Lauren Edgetech)or filled into a tube(airspace) (see CRL)that is around the edge of the unit, there is no "pumping down a vacuum", it depends on a sealed "dead air" space for insulating, low-e and argon gas help increase insulating factor, along with maximum thickness, 7/8 in. overall thickness is as good as it gets.

Some of this may be in dispute by some people, I only write what has worked for me.