ring sawed glass and foil

Just a hunch here. You are using some "coolant" or additive to the ring saw's water tank? Or maybe using "Markstay" so the water won't float your pattern lines off the glass?

Try some acetone/lacquer thinner/denatured alcohol on the glass before you try foiling it. Get the grease/vaseline/glycol/beeswax/whatever off the glass. Which solvent you use will depend on what you have on the glass. Experiment.

thank you will try that, I used rubber cement to glue the paper on the glass and 3M scotchguard on the paper to keep water off the paper, so thank you again for your advice...John

You're over killing this stuff. Trace your piece with a sharpie, cut inside the line, grind & rinse with plain water, dry and foil. I never use any kind of solvent, cleaner, protectant, oil, of any kind.

No oil in your cutter?

"No oil in your cutter?" ======================================= Toyo HEAVY KNURLED NECKED BRASS CUTTER.....knurling is worn off where I hold the cutter after 25 years of abuse (to the cutter). Never add oil to the barrel, just a very light dip or spray of WD40 about once a week or so. Yes I have gone through MANY MANY cutter heads. ===================================================== "thank you will try that, I used rubber cement to glue the paper on the glass and 3M scotchguard on the paper to keep water off the paper, so thank you again for your advice...John"

Also agree that is way too much thinking it out.............. Also just trace the pattern on the glass and cut off the trace line........... However if you are using a 6 to 9 repeat pattern on PLAIN HEAVY PAPER, BEFORE you cut the pattern cover both sides with CLEAR SHELF or CONTACT PAPER. Cut out pattern and use and abuse it. It will last indefinitely! h

Haven't put oil in a cutter in years. I keep mine in an old tupperware container that has two layers of paper towels in the bottom that are saturated in oil.

andy

Nope.... too juicy for me. I'll dip once or twice an hour of heavy work. The interior wick holds lots of oil when dipped.

I went whole hog last week and DIPPED my Toyo handles in that red rubber tool handle coating goop....no taking that oil filler nut off again, ever! And this just may be the best improvement in cutters since db's copper tube handle adapter...hahahahahah. I, too, haven't poured oil into my cutter in decades...too messy! An occasional dip at an oily rag in a can, as mentioned above, works fine.

cheers, Jacques Bordeleau

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Hi John

I just came across this forum and read your post. I am new to SG and am doing my second project now. Here is what Ihave done that is similar to you. First, Use clear and repositionable Contact Paper For 1- the cartoon, and two for the pieces to be cut up. The first piece or the cartoon is now covered with contact paper and will withstand water when you lay pieces that are wet from the grinder, you can also assemble pieces there also. 2-Use Glue stick to hold pieces to glass when cutting and grinding. It works very very well. Just let glue dry awhile. then when you want to pattern piece off of glass, soak in warm water and it comes right off.. Another idea I just got is to use 3M repositionable glue stick. It sticks but doesn't dry, just like a post it note. :>

Jim

You guys are making life difficult for yourselves. Sticking patterns on the glass and all that is a waste of time.

Make a pattern out of file folder manila, cut it all apart with a pattern scissors. I DO protect my cartoon with shelf paper, but not the patterns.

Trace around each piece of the pattern onto the glass with a Sharpie. Don't use one of those hair-line fine point ones. Use one that makes a mark about

1/16 to 3/32" wide. If you have dark glass where the Sharpie won't show up, use a paint pencil. (Gold or Silver, in the crafts dept at your local Walmart.)

Cut your glass so that the black line of the Sharpie is left on the scrap side of your cut. Your desired piece shouldn't have any Sharpie ink on it at all...if your pattern was to size, then the black line was traced outside the pattern. If you leave the line on the scrap, your finished piece will be the same size as your pattern.

Now, take the glass that is cut to the pattern and wipe it around the grinder one time to get a matte finish edge (or to remove the Sharpie line you couldn't bring yourself to leave on the scrap.) ;

The

The only thing faster is to put your glass over the template on a light table, as long as you can see through the glass, you simply score inside the pattern lines. No cutting, tracing, gluing needed, and eliminating a step means less chance for error in pattern cutting. I can cut and grind as many as 100 pieces an hour this way. By the way Moon, get yourself the new Sharpie silver/gray marker. It's the best thing for dark glass in 30 years. No paint marker dripping, and priming the tip.

I didn't know there was a sharpie in silver. Thanks for letting me know. Simple things like that add up to huge time and fit savings!

It's fairly new..... maybe 6 months or so.

it's been out for at least 4 years.

You'll need to prove this to me.

JK Sinrod Sinrod Stained Glass Studios

Coney Island Memories

Advantage Charlie. Sharpie's website refers to the metallic markers in Dec., 2002.

Actually, the silver sharpie is what Terrell Owens pulled out of his sock to autograph the football after scoring that touchdown in December, 2001 in San Fransissy.

Send me the postage and I'll send some that are old and dried up.

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Well what can I say? I guess my next way of getting out of this is to claim that they weren't available in my area? Would that work?

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No.