Solder properties? Irons?

Hi all, I'm new to stained glass. Ok, that probably lost 90% of you but sometimes you just have to be new. I've been lurking, and rarely, posting here for the past month or so. I am considering working with lead free solder and am looking for a site that lists solder properties. What I want to know is what percentage of what metals it contains and the melting points. Any suggestions of where I could find something like this?

Anyone here using a lead free suitable for the copper foil method of stained glass work? Since melting points are higher than leaded solder, what iron/type of flux do you like to use with it? Will it work nicely with black patina? Look good on it's own?

Yes, I am taking a class and can ask the instructor (a 60/40 person); but, as with most things, I think there is more than one approach that will work. Opinions please?

Email is munged, remove the "eels" if you wish to use it.

Reply to
searobin8356
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Hooray! A newbie lurker that isn't an argumentative troll. Welcome. ;>)

I am considering working with lead free

Probably everything you'd ever want to know about solder is at this link, including the alloys, fluxes, and melting points:

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Not me. But my recent blood lead level tests may indicate that I have to go to such a solder, and soon.

The melting points of the lead free are only 50* or so higher than the

50/50. I doubt you'd ever know which you were working with unless you looked at the spool's label. Very experienced people probably can tell by how the solder melts and flows.

I dunno about patina-ing lead-free solder. It might work...or not. Experimenting is the only way to know if you'll like it. Did you ask your retailer about what to use?

60/40 person? What sort of a perversion is THAT? Heh, heh. >
Reply to
Moonraker

Lol, I can't think of a faster way to get totally roasted by an established NG. But, I can't promise to never argue:)

If lead free solder is not significantly more difficult to work with then why not? Prohibitive cost and/or inferior results is what comes to mind.

Looking at the Canfield site... Canfield Silvergleem is certainly in the upper realm of cost for that bit of silver it has. They also offer Pewter, which is less expensive but has a duller grey finish to it from what I have read. Maybe there is not enough market share in stained glass for competition to occur and bring in some new alternatives. I wonder about stepping out and using a lead free marketed towards mass production of some kind, of course, it may not be available to a retail buyer.

BTW, any adults getting a serum lead screen should also get the Zinc Protoporphyrin test as well, as you probably know. For those that don't:

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> Since melting points are higher than leaded solder, what iron/type of flux> > do you like to use with it?>

I was hoping that if I just go ahead and start out using it as a newbie that it won't seem anymore difficult to use than the leaded type. My concern was that with the higher temps and the slowness of being new, I might "create" some broken glass until I work up a bit of experience with it.

I'll ask about lthe lead free this week. I see them suggesting/selling

60/40 by Canfield to others in this class.

Not sure, but they seem to enjoy it and perhaps there is a video available ;^)

Thanks for the info.

Reply to
searobin8356

It's probably just a case of me being stuck in my ways....and now I get to be stuck with IV chelation therapy a whole bunch of times as payback. I probably use less solder per dollar of sales than anyone in this group. I don't really care what the solder costs...just that it will do what I need. I need to grab up a roll and give it a try. I'll stop by Homer Depo's and see if they have any. My local retailer isn't "local" unless I wanna drive

25 miles.

Maybe that's why the Hutmeister is having problems with his production of training tapes. He was watching the 60/40 duo perform and got the remote all sticky. ;>)

You be welcome.

Reply to
Moonraker

Clearly, your lead exposure was significant and possibly included some physiological symptoms as well. Maybe your SO needs a little break from the kitchen? I wish you well with the chelation. This is an article on Occupational Lead Poisoning a couple of docs wrote a few years back, it is geared towards medical professionals, but still has some good info in it.

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you been watching the Lynn Turner trial> on Court TV? She just got convicted of poisoning her former husband with> anti-freeze. While that trial was going on, I did a repair on the front> door of one of Cobb Co.'s law enforcement officals' homes. He was telling> me that they had inquiries from some county in KY because Lynn Turner's> grandmother had died under similar circumstances about 9 years ago. Guess> who the heiress was? Oh my. Grandma, hubby, and boyfriend...scary stuff. Maybe my relatives aren't so bad after all.

Thanks, I'll never think of 60/40 in the same way again!

My retail shop says they haven't found a lead free they really like. They have the Silvergleem by Canfield, I think $25 per lb. it has 4% Ag. They have a less expensive one but are not happy with it at all.

I did a bunch of web browsing and hope to find a lead free that is workable, has nice finish and cheaper than $25 lb. I just ordered a couple of pounds of lead free silver bearing solders to experiment with from Johnson Mfg. I got IA-423 and 425 and a sample of flux. Should have it in a few days, but no chance to try it out for awhile as I need to do a bit of travel. The seller admits they won't follow the iron quite as nicely as the 60/40 but reports they are nice looking solder and that I will get used to it. Ha, I am not even used to the 60/40 yet--I'll report back after I get a chance to play with it. I did finish a

14" Victorian panel as my first project and am actually pretty happy with it :-) Properties for these solders are at the site below if anyone has interest
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Reply to
searobin8356

You're chasing an impossible dream. The quickest way to convince someone to continue using lead, is make them work with lead-free solder.

Reply to
Dennis Brady

Alternatively, the quickest way to get someone to work with lead-free solder is to have a blood lead level test come back >50 when

Reply to
Moonraker

I seriously doubt such a reading came from stained glass work unless you were fool enough to be eating the lead instead of soldering it.

Check the ingredients in "lead-free" solder and you'll find many contain cadmium and mercury - both enormously more serious than lead. The lead-free advocacy movement has nothing to do with health and safety - everything to do with economics. The economic improvement of those companies wanting to sell lead-free alternatives.

Consider it a move to improved efficiency. Instead of poisoning yourself slowly with lead, you can get the job done quick and slick with cadmium and mercury.

Reply to
Dennis Brady

as was pointed out to me in a different forum:

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state that some lead can be absorbed through the skin. regards, charlie cave creek, az

Reply to
Charles Spitzer

Your understanding of lead poisoning and the dangers of working with lead and soldering are apparently on a par with your economic accumen.

Reply to
Moonraker

The propaganda that lead can be absorbed thru skin pores while being handled was debunked many years ago. As was the more recent bunkum that lead heated to 800 degrees created a vapourized lead that could be inhaled.

Ya gotta eat it to get into ya.

Reply to
Dennis Brady

I'm sure the CDC and EPA will be glad to have these nuggets of wisdom. Did you think this up all on your own?

What you DON'T know about lead poisoning is monumental. You are as misinformed and wrong as you typically are about most things you post here.

Take Will Roger's advice : " Never miss a good chance to shut up."

Reply to
Moonraker

So then, oh wise and learned one: explain how stained glass workers get lead poisoning - other by ingesting it.

Reply to
Dennis Brady

Pure Pb is toxic, but Pb* (Lead Oxide) is much more so.

You can figure it out from there, Einstein.

Reply to
Moonraker

Moonraker is correct.

You can get lead in your bloodstream by breathing in the fumes. The air and fumes go into your lungs and from your lungs go into your blood.

You can get lead on your skin - and then if you smoke - some gets in your mouth and on it goes to the blood.

Also if you handle lead and get it on your hands and do not wash them before putting anything in your mouth (cigarette, food, drink a cup of coffee, etc.) that is how lead gets in typically.

A good source for this would be the solder handling guidelines in the electronics industry - they deal with similar problems as stained glass.

Reply to
Bromo

Lead additives in gasoline was proven to directly to contribute to high lead content in city dweller's blood.

You do have to ingest lead - but breathing in lead particles in fumes from a solder pot is possible and does happen.

Sorry.

Reply to
Bromo

Forgot to add - that if you put a hood above your soldering irons and solder pots, you will reduce the possibility of inhaling significant lead particulates in fumes.

Reply to
Bromo

Organic lead compounds, such as tetraethyl lead are readily absorbed through the skin.

Reply to
nJb

Didn't know that - thanks for the info. Worse than I thought.

Reply to
Bromo

Where do you get this stuff Dennis, comic books? Of course you get lead poisoning via lead fumes. That's an undisputed fact. Do you actually do much soldering without a fume mask? Are you old enough to remember auto mechanics getting lead in the bloodstream via inhaling fumes pre lead free gas? I had a mechanic friend who was afflicted twice, and had a hell of a time getting it back to normal. I had an elevated lead level, and reduced it to a normal range by wearing a fume mask.

Reply to
jk

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