A quick guide to crocheting cheese wheel plushies for beginners

Oct 25, 2026 Last reply: 2 days ago 3 Replies
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After making something like sixty of these little cheese guys for orders last year, I figured I'd share what I wish someone had told me before the first one. The body is just a sphere worked in continuous rounds, so start with a magic ring and count your stitches on every round. The first few I made came out lopsided because I was rushing the increase rounds. Use a hook a size down from what the yarn label says. Tighter stitches mean the stuffing won't poke thru later. Stuffing is where most people go wrong, honestly. Understuff and it slumps, overstuff and your increases bulge out like a lumpy orange. I aim for firm but squishy, adding small pinches at a time. Put the safety eyes in before you close the sphere, not after. Ask me how I know. You want them low and close together on the face side, that's what gives the derpy look everyone loves.



The wax shell is the fun part and it's easier than it looks. Work a flat rectangle in back loops only, long enough to wrap around the sphere with a slight overlap, then seam it up the side and close the top with a few stitches so it pops off and back on. The back loops give you those little ridges that read as wax ridges. Red acrylic with a slight sheen beats matte cotton here, it catches the light better. One last tip, use a slightly lighter red for the little tab on top of the shell. Two reds that are almost the same shade looks odd, but a clear contrast makes the whole thing click. And block the shell over the actual cheese body while it dries so it holds the round shape instead of sitting flat.


I worked through this method last month for a small local market and found the stuffing advice to be spot on. I was worried about getting the sphere shape right beacuse I always ended up with a bit of a lump near the base, but keeping those increases really steady helped me get a smoother surface. I use worsted weight yarn because I prefer the drape it gives when finished, even though the post suggested a specific acrylic. My biggest difference was the shell construction. I found that if you measure the circumference of the final body and multiply it by about 1.2, that gives you a good starting point for the length of the flat piece before you begin seaming it up. I had to make my back loop rectangle about four inches wider than I first planned just to ensure there was enough room for the overlap and a secure final stitch around the top. I also noticed a difference in how the color looks when you use a slightly deeper red for the underbelly of the shell. The light catches it differently, giving the whole thing a more weathered look rather than just looking bright. It helped the finished pieces stand out on my display table, which was definatly the goal. It felt satisfying to finish the batch without any pieces looking sloppy.

I think the tip about using a deeper red for the underbelly is really helpful. It changes the whole vibe from just bright toy to somethig that acutally looks like aged cheese, which is key for selling them. I had a similar expirience when I started making these too. To help keep the back loop tension even, I always mark the start of the rectangle with a little stitch marker. It makes the seaming process a lot smoother.

I think the final finishing of the outer casing is where most people lose a bit of polish. I used a 3.0mm crochet hook just for the last few closure stitches, and that was the biggest difference. It made sure the tension stayed perfectly uniform across the entire piece, which really helped mask any inconsistencies in the shell's texture. It's funny how that small detail changed the look from something handmade to something that felt finished and quality.

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