Cling wrap sloper

I've been gradually working my way through a most interesting blog site

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I found mention of a Saran wrap block and Liana (the amazing and productive blogger) gave a link to another site which gives instructions on how to do this.http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/saran_wrap_pattern_making_method_1.htmlandhttp://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/saran_wrap_pattern_making_method_2.htmlSaran wrap isn't a product available here but I assumed it is what I'd call 'cling film'. I need a few new close fitting shell tops so this sounded just the thing to use to draft up a new sloper as I've had surgery which I know has changed my shape so that I think I am now quite assymetrical. We did the wrap and cut it off up the centre front and centre back and up the side seams and across the shoulder seams and it is all held together with tape. Looks good.

I put the cling wrap back sections on top of heavy paper to draft up the sloper. No drama with the back which I slit from the centre shoulder seam to the point of the shoulder so it would lay flat. This is the shoulder dart which I can manipulate later.

I then put the front on the paper and slit from the side seam to the bust point but it won't lie flat. It gets a 'dart' shaped fold at the armscye.

I have a large and low bust and these silly thin arms and I've had this problem before when making a sloper. If I accomodate my thin arms and put the curve of the armhole high up under the arm (which is where I want it and especially for this style of top) the curve of the armhole looks wrong - too severe and acute an angle. to make it lie flat at the armscye, I get a slight buckle in the top edge of the cut at the bust, but my bust point on the cling film is certainly where it is on my body. I can't understand it.

I wondered if I tape the side seam to bust point cut back together again and then cut from the shoulder seam to the bust point to form a dart and from the waist to the bust point to form a dart (rather like a Princess seam) and just held together at the bust point by a sliver of film, if this might make the cling wrap body double then lay flat at the armscye????

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions as to what to do to fit a big low bust and thin, thin arms from my cling flim double please?

Reply to
FarmI
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Having thought about it a bit more, could I cut from the side seam to the bust point and also from the armscye to the bust point? Would that work so I could manipulate these into better placed darts on a flat pattern?

Reply to
FarmI

Dear Farml,

I see that our trolls have gone away, so I'm back. First, know that wherever a bodice dart is, it always points at the bust point. But it doesn't always go to the bust point, although you would slash all the way to the bust point, then use this formula to complete the dart:

Neckline darts--two inches from bust point; shoulder darts--2 inches from bust point; armscye darts--1-3/4 inches from bust point; side bust darts--1-1/2 inches from bust point; french darts--3/4 inch from bust point; center front darts--1/2 inch from bust point; waistline darts--to the original bust point. These measurements are based on a size 10, using approximately 2 inches as the radius for the bust area. This information comes from the Jack Handford book, Professional Patternmaking for Designers--Women's Wear, Men's Casual Wear, page 99. So, slash all the way to the bust point from the location you want the dart, flatten out the draft, then use the chart to to put a dot aligned with the bust point, and draw the dart. Remember to fold the dart in place before you cut, so that you have the required amount of fabric to create the dart. Vertical darts point to the center; horizontal darts point downward. That means the fold on the wrong side goes to the center or down.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

I always thought that when a slash/dart goes to the bust point it is known as a 'designers dart' and then later when it is used to draft up the pattern, it becomes a 'dressmakers dart' and that is when the distances you mention apply for stopping short of the bust point.

But I have to get past this current problem before I can get to the pattern stage.

The problem is that I got that far and can't get it to lie flat. In theory it should but it doesn't.

then use the chart

Thanks for the post. Looks like I'll just have to wing it and try to fly solo :-))

Reply to
FarmI

Dear Farml,

I taught patternmaking for more than twenty years, and I never heard the phrase Designer dart vs. Dressmaker's dart. When you make a sloper, it can have one or two darts--one from the waistline to the bust point; the other from the side seam to the bust point. When you move these darts, you make a slash from the location you want the dart to start, to the actual bust point. You then tape closed the original dart. The new dart will open, and may be wider or narrower than the original, depending upon where it is. You then use the chart to draw the dart.

Don't worry about how the thing "looks." You can true the armhole by making a smooth line with a curved ruler. If you have gaping material in the armhole, fold it out. This is not a dart, but fabric that doesn't need to be there. And you are right about the armhole height. It needs to be high for comfort and mobility.

Please post again if this doesn't help your problem.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

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