Brother NX400 owner's manual: Getting ready

GETTING READY

CAUTION

• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.
• Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

8 While holding the spool with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover to the front.

① Thread guide cover

9 Pass the thread under the thread guide plate from the right.

① Thread guide plate

10 Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the hook on the thread guide for bobbin winding, and then wind it counterclockwise between the discs.

① Thread guide for bobbin winding

11 While using your left hand to hold the end of the thread that wraps around the thread guide for bobbin winding, use your right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin four or five times.

12 Pull the thread to the right and pass it through the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

① Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter) ► The thread is cut to a suitable length.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

CAUTION

• Be sure to cut the thread as described on the previous page. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

13 Slide the sewing speed controller to the right (so that the speed will be fast).

① Sewing speed controller

14 Press ① (start/stop button) once.

① Start/stop button

• The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is wound around the bobbin.
• The bobbin stops spinning when it is full.

15 Press ① (start/stop button) once.

• The sewing machine stops.

16 Use scissors to cut the end of the thread wound around the bobbin.

17 Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.

18 Remove the bobbin from the shaft.

19 Slide the sewing speed controller back to its original position.

CAUTION

• Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

Memo

• When the sewing machine is started or the balance wheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 21

GETTING READY

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

CAUTION

• Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
• The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, XA5539-151).

Actual size 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) This model Older model

Memo

• The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the shuttle is indicated by marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

1. Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

① Bobbin cover ② Latch ► The bobbin cover opens.

2. Remove the bobbin cover.
3. Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold the end of the thread with your left.

• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.

4. Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the thread unrolls to the left.

• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.

5. Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right hand, and then guide the thread as shown with your left hand.

6. Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and then pull the thread out toward the front.

① Cutter ► The cutter cuts the thread.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

CAUTION

• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unroll the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

7 Reattach the bobbin cover.

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

▶ The lower threading is finished.

Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in “Upper Threading” (on the next page).

Memo

• You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 31).

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23

GETTING READY

Upper Threading

In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described.

CAUTION

• When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.

Memo

• The order that the machine should be threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

Threading the upper thread

1. Turn on the sewing machine.

2. Raise the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever ► The presser foot is raised.

24

• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly.

3 Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

① Needle position button • If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check that the mark on the balance wheel is facing up as shown in the illustration below. If the balance wheel is not in this position, be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before using the needle threader.

① Mark on balance wheel

4 Lift open the upper cover.

5 Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.

① Spool pin ② Spool cap

6 Place the spool for the upper thread onto the spool pin. Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unrolls from the bottom front of the spool.

• If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unrolls correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.

7 Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin. With the rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible until the right side of the spool touches the right end of the spool pin.

• Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small). Use the spool cap with a diameter that is slightly larger than the diameter of the spool. The medium-sized spool cap is already on the spool pin when the sewing machine is purchased.

① Spool cap (large) ② Spool cap (medium) ③ Spool

• When using a spool of cross-wound thread, install the small spool cap with some space between the cap and the spool.

① Spool ② Gap ③ Spool cap (small)

GETTING READY

CAUTION

• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.
• Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

8 While holding the spool with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover to the front.

① Thread guide cover

9 Pass the thread under the thread guide plate from the right.

① Thread guide plate

10 While using your right hand to hold the thread passed under the thread guide plate taut, pass the thread through the guides in the order (up → left → down → up → down) shown.

① Shutter

The following diagram shows the shutter position when the presser foot is lowered. Since the shutter is closed when the presser foot is lowered, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot so that the shutter is open in order to thread the machine.

① Shutter

11 Pass the thread through the thread hook at the base of the needle bar.

① Thread hook

Next, use the needle threader to thread the needle. Continue with the procedure in "Threading the needle" (on the next page).

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Threading the needle

The needle threader can be used with needle size 75/11 through 100/16. For more details on the needle, refer to "Needle types and their uses" (page 33).

1 With your left hand, hold the end of the thread passed through the needle bar thread hook, and then pass the thread through the thread guide discs from the front.

① Thread guide discs ② Pass to the back. ③ Pass through the slit.

2 Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side of the machine.

① Thread cutter

3 Lower the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever ► The presser foot is lowered.

4 Lower the needle threader lever until it clicks.

① Needle threader lever ► The thread is passed through the eye of the needle.

5 Release the needle threader lever.

6 Carefully pull on the loop of thread passed through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.

Upper Threading 27

GETTING READY

7 Raise the presser foot lever, pass the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

① 5 cm (2 inch)

▶ The lower threading is finished.

Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.

Note

• If the needle is not raised, the needle threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before using the needle threader.
• If the twin needle is installed, the needle threader cannot be used. For details, refer to "Using the twin needle" (at the right).

Using the twin needle

With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap.

For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 128).

CAUTION

• Only use the twin needle (part code: X59296-051). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

1 Install the twin needle.

• For details on installing a needle, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35).

2 Thread the upper thread for the left needle eye.

• For details, refer to steps ① through of "Threading the upper thread" (page 24).

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

3 Manually thread the left needle with the upper thread. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

4 Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin winder shaft. Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.

① Bobbin winder shaft

5 Swing down the spool pin so that it is horizontal.

6 Place the upper thread spool for the needle on the right side onto the extra spool pin, and then secure it with the spool cap. The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool.

① Spool cap ② Spool

7 Thread the upper thread in the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded.

① Thread guide cover

• For details, refer to step 8 through 10 of “Threading the upper thread” (page 26).

8 Without passing the thread through the needle bar thread hook, manually thread the right needle. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

9 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

CAUTION

• When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

10 Turn on the sewing machine.

▶ The LCD comes on.

Upper Threading 29

GETTING READY

11 Press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

12 Press ▲, ▼, ◀ and ▶ (arrow keys) until is selected.

13 Press (OK key). ► The screen for selecting the twin needle appears.

14 Press ▶ to select . To return to , press ◀.

► The twin needle can now be used.

15 Press (OK key). ► The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen.

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the twin needle setting is not cancelled.

CAUTION

• When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

16 Select a stitch.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 68).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 128).

CAUTION

• When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

17 Start sewing.

• For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 49). ► Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.

CAUTION

• When changing the sewing direction, press (needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

30

Using thread that winds off quickly

When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the enclosed spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.

① Spool net ② Spool ③ Spool cap ④ Spool pin

Pulling up the bobbin thread

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

1 Insert the bobbin into the shuttle.

• Refer to steps ① through of “Installing the bobbin” (page 22).

2 Pass the bobbin thread through the slot. Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

3 While lightly holding the upper thread with your left hand, press (needle position button) twice to raise the needle.

① Needle position button ► The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread and can be pulled up.

4 Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the end of the bobbin thread.

Upper Threading 31

GETTING READY

5 Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of the bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.

6 Reattach the bobbin cover. Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Replacing the Needle

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION

• Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|c|l|} \hline \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Fabric Type/Application}} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Thread}} & \textbf{Size of Needle} \ \cline{3-4} \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{} & \textbf{Type} & \textbf{Size} & \ \hline \multirow{3}{}{Medium weight fabrics} & Broadcloth & Cotton thread & 60–80 & \multirow{3}{}{75/11–90/14} \ \cline{2-4} & Taffeta & Synthetic thread & & \ \cline{2-4} & Flannel, Gabardine & Silk thread & 50–80 & \ \hline \multirow{3}{}{Thin fabrics} & Lawn & Cotton thread & 60–80 & \multirow{3}{}{65/9–75/11} \ \cline{2-4} & Georgette & Synthetic thread & & \ \cline{2-4} & Poral & Silk thread & 50–80 & \ \hline \multirow{3}{}{Thick fabrics} & Denim & Cotton thread & 30–50 & \multirow{3}{}{90/14–100/16} \ \cline{2-4} & Corduroy & Synthetic thread & 50 & \ \cline{2-4} & Tweed & Silk thread & & \ \hline \multirow{2}{}{Stretch fabrics} & Jersey & Thread for knits & 50–60 & Ball point needle (golden colored) 75/11–90/14 \ \cline{2-4} & Tricot & & & \ \hline \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\multirow{3}{}{Easily frayed fabrics}} & Cotton thread & 50–80 & \multirow{3}{}{65/9–90/14} \ \cline{3-4} \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{} & Synthetic thread & & \ \cline{3-4} \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{} & Silk thread & & \ \hline \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\multirow{2}{}{For top-stitching}} & Synthetic thread & 30 & \multirow{2}{*}{90/14–100/16} \ \cline{3-4} \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{} & Silk thread & & \ \hline \end{tabular}

Replacing the Needle 33

GETTING READY

Memo

• The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.
• Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
• Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.
• A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased.

CAUTION

• The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

① Flat side ② Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

① Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

① Flat surface

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in "Checking the needle".

1 Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

① Needle position button

2 Turn off the sewing machine.

CAUTION

• Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

3 Lower the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever

4 Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.

① Screwdriver ② Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

5 With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

6 While holding the needle with your left hand, use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

Replacing the Needle 35

GETTING READY

CAUTION

• Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Replacing the Presser Foot

The presser foot presses down on the fabric.

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the needles.

CAUTION

• Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
• Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below. For details on using the side cutter "S", refer to "Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter" (page 72).

1. Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

① Needle position button ► The needle is raised.

2. Turn off the sewing machine.

CAUTION

• Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

3. Raise the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever ► The presser foot is raised.

Replacing the Presser Foot 37

GETTING READY

4 Press the black button at the back of the presser foot holder.

① Black button ② Presser foot holder

► The presser foot holder releases the presser foot.

5 Place a different presser foot below the holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read.

① Presser foot holder ② Notch ③ Pin

6 Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.

① Presser foot lever ► The presser foot is attached.

7 Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser foot is securely attached.

Note

• When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Buttonhole foot “A” Overcasting foot “G” Zigzag foot “J” Button fitting foot “M” Monogramming foot “N” Blind stitch foot “R” Side cutter “S”

• For details on the presser foot that should be used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).

38

Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot

The amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric can be adjusted.

1 Lower the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever

2 Turn the presser foot dial at the back of the sewing machine. The scale on the dial indicates the range from 1 (weak) to 4 (strong). Turn the dial to the right (smaller number) to decrease the pressure. Turn the dial to the left (larger number) to decrease the pressure.

3 When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to 3 (standard).

Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

1 Remove the presser foot. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot holder screw.

① Screwdriver

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

1 Align the presser foot holder with the lower-left side of the presser bar.

2 Hold the presser foot holder in place with your right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

① Screwdriver

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Replacing the Presser Foot 39

GETTING READY

Note

• If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

Using the walking foot

With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.

■ Attaching the walking foot

1. Remove the presser foot holder.

   • For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (on the previous page).

2. Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot onto the needle clamp screw.

① Connecting fork ② Needle clamp screw

3. Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.

① Presser foot holder screw

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

CAUTION

• Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
• Before starting to sew, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Note

• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.

■ Removing the walking foot

1. Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

① Needle position button ► The needle is raised.

2. Turn off the sewing machine.

3. Raise the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever ► The presser foot is raised.

4. With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot holder screw, and then remove the walking foot.

5. Attach the presser foot holder.
   • For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 39).

Memo

• Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot. For details on the stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).

Replacing the Presser Foot 41

GETTING READY

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces

When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.

1 Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

► With the flat bed attachment removed, free-arm sewing is possible.

2 Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm, and then sew from the top.

3 When you are finished with free-arm sewing, install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.

Sewing large pieces of fabric

The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier.

1 Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide table. Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.

2 Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

► With the flat bed attachment removed, free-arm sewing is possible.

3 Install the wide table. Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into place.

Note ● The optional wide table is available through your brother retailer.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

4 Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to adjust their height.

CAUTION

• Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur.

5 When you are finished using the wide table, remove it. While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it off to the left.

6 Install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.

Memo

• With the legs folded up, the wide table can be stored attached to the hard case.

• The knee lifter can be stored attached to the bottom of the wide table.

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 43

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

GETTING READY

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

44

2 SEWING BASICS The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

• Sewing ........ 46
• Adjusting the Thread Tension ........ 54
• Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ........ 55
• Useful Functions ........ 57
• Useful Sewing Tips ........ 62