Brother NX400 owner's manual: Sewing

SEWING BASICS

Sewing

Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION

• While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
• Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
• Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

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Positioning the fabric

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.

1 Turn on the sewing machine.

The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.

2 Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.

① Needle position button

3 Place the fabric under the presser foot.

• If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

4 While holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand, turn the balance wheel toward you with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

5 Lower the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever ▶ The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

Memo

• To adjust the pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 39).

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Starting to sew

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the operation buttons or the foot controller.

■ Using the operation buttons

Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (start/stop button).

1. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desired sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

① Sewing speed controller

2. Press (start/stop button) once.

① Start/stop button

► The machine starts sewing.

• If you continue to hold the start/stop button pressed immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.

3. When the end of the stitching is reached, press (start/stop button) once. ► The machine stops sewing with the needle down (in the fabric).

4. When you are finished sewing, raise the needle, and then cut the threads.

   • For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 53).

■ Using the foot controller

Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.

1. Turn off the sewing machine. When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

2. Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the side of the sewing machine.

① Foot controller jack

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

• Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-400/PC-420.

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SEWING BASICS

3 Turn on the sewing machine.

4 Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desired sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

① Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller's maximum sewing speed.

5 Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

• Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly. ► The machine starts sewing.

6 When the end of the stitching is reached, completely release the foot controller. ► The machine stops sewing with the needle lowered (in the fabric).

7 When you are finished sewing, raise the needle, and then cut the threads.

• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 53).

Memo

• When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing.
• When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the needle stop position" (page 16).

CAUTION

• Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.
• Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.
• If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Securing the stitching

When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.

1 Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.

2 Press (start/stop button) or press down on the foot controller. At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.

① Start/stop button

• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 49). ► The machine starts sewing.

3 After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.

① Reverse/reinforcement stitch button ► While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is held pressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

4 After sewing back to the beginning of the stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement stitch button. ► The machine stops sewing.

5 Press (start/stop button), or press down on the foot controller. ► The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction.

6 When the end of the stitching is reached, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn. ► While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is depressed, reverse stitches are sewn.

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7 After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, release (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). ► The machine stops sewing.

8 Press (start/stop button), or press down on the foot controller. At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed. ► The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction.

9 After sewing to the end of the stitching, the sewing machine stops. Release the start/stop button or foot controller.

① Beginning of stitching ② End of stitching

■ Sewing reinforcement stitches When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.

① Reverse stitching ② Reinforcement stitching

Memo

• Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 128).

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Cutting the thread

When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The threads can be cut in either of two ways.

■ Using the thread cutter button

1. When you wish to finish the stitching, press (thread cutter button) once.

① Thread cutter button ► The threads are cut and the needle is raised.

2. Raise the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever

CAUTION

• Do not press the thread cutter button after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

Note

• Do not press the thread cutter button if there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

Memo

• The machine can be set so that the threads will be cut when sewing is finished. For details on setting the machine so that the threads are cut automatically, refer to "Automatically cutting the thread" (page 58).

■ Using the manual thread cutter

When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads.

1. When you wish to finish the stitching and the sewing machine is stopped, press (needle position button) once to raise the needle.

① Needle position button ► The needle is raised.

2. Raise the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever

3. Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

① Thread cutter

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Adjusting the Thread Tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal.

Changing the tension of the upper thread

If the thread and needle combination is correct for the type of fabric being sewn (according to "Needle types and their uses" on page 33), the thread tension will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate setting. However, if the preset thread tension does not give the desired result or if you are sewing with special thread or on special fabric, use the thread tension dial under the upper cover to adjust the tension of the upper thread.

■ Correct thread tension The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric ③ Upper thread ④ Bobbin thread

■ Upper thread is too tight If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric ③ Upper thread ④ Bobbin thread ⑤ The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen the upper thread.

■ Upper thread is too loose If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric ③ Upper thread ④ Bobbin thread ⑤ The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten the upper thread.

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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 128).

Adjusting the stitch width

The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys.

1 Turn on the sewing machine.

► The LCD comes on.

2 Select a stitch.

► A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 68). • Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

3 To make the stitch width narrower, press ◀ (–). To make the stitch width wider, press ▶ (+).

► The stitch width is changed.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

Memo

• To reset the stitch width to its standard setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value. • If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left. • The settings can be saved so that they will always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to "Saving stitch settings" (page 60). • The sewing machine can be set so that the stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to "Satin stitching" (page 99).

CAUTION

• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Adjusting the Thread Tension/Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 55

SEWING BASICS

Adjusting the stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow keys.

1 Turn on the sewing machine.

► The LCD comes on.

2 Select a stitch.

► A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.

3 To make the stitch length shorter, press ▼ (–). To make the stitch length longer, press ▲ (+).

► The stitch length is changed.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.

Memo

• To reset the stitch length to its standard setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.
• The settings can be saved so that they will always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 60).

CAUTION

• If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

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Useful Functions

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 128).

1 Turn on the sewing machine.

► The LCD comes on.

2 Select a stitch.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 68).

3 Press (settings key) in the operation panel.

► The settings screen appears.

4 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

5 Press (OK key).

► The screen for specifying automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching appears.

6 Press ◄ to select ON. To return to OFF, press ►.

► The machine is now set to automatically sew reverse/reinforcement stitches.

7 Press (OK key).

► The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen.

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled.

8 Position the fabric under the presser foot, and then press (start/stop button) once.

① Start/stop button

► After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the machine starts sewing.

SEWING BASICS

9 After reaching the end of the stitching, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once. This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

① Reverse/reinforcement stitch button ► After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the sewing machine stops.

Memo

• Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching.

Automatically cutting the thread

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called "programmed thread-cutting". If programmed thread-cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing buttonholes or bar tacks is selected.

1 Turn on the sewing machine.

► The LCD comes on.

2 Select a stitch.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 68).

3 Press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

4 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

5 Press (OK key). ► The screen for specifying automatic thread-cutting appears.

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6 Press ◄ to select ON. To return to OFF, press ►.

► The machine is now set for programmed thread-cutting.

7 Press (OK key).

► The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen.

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the programmed thread-cutting setting is cancelled.

8 Position the fabric under the presser foot, and then press (start/stop button) once.

① Start/stop button ► After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the machine starts sewing.

9 After reaching the end of the stitching, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once. This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

► After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts the thread.

The thread is cut here.

Memo • Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn and the thread will not automatically be cut if the start/stop button is pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching.

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SEWING BASICS

Saving stitch settings

Adjusted stitch width and length settings can be saved so that they will be specified each time the stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved for each utility stitch.

1. Select the stitch, and then adjust the stitch width and length. To adjust the stitch width, press ◀ (–) and ▶ (+). To adjust the stitch length, press ▼ (–) and ▲ (+).

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68). ► The stitch width and length are changed.

2. Press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

3. Press ▲, ▼, ◀ and ▶ (arrow keys) until is selected.

4. Press (OK key). ► The screen for saving the settings appears.

5. Check the is selected, and then press (OK key).

► The settings for the stitch width and length are saved.

• The next time that the stitch is selected, the saved settings are the first ones that are displayed.
• To clear the saved settings and return the stitch width and length to their default settings, press ▶ so that , and then press (OK key).

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Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot

Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.

■ Installing the knee lifter

1. Turn off the sewing machine.

2. Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front of the sewing machine in the lower-right corner. Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.

Note

• If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into its jack, it may fall out while the sewing machine is operating.

■ Using the knee lifter

1. Stop the sewing machine.

   • Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing machine is operating.

2. With your knee, press the knee lifter to the right. Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.

► The presser foot is raised.

3. Release the knee lifter. ► The presser foot is lowered.

! CAUTION

• While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed while the sewing machine is operating, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

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Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.

For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

1. When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the sewing machine. Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (needle position button) to lower the needle.

2. Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

3. Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to "Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 64).

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

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Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.

① Sewing direction

1. When you encounter a seam that is too thick to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.

2. Press the black button on the left side of the foot. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.

3. Release the button. The foot will lock in place level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.

► Once the trouble spot has been passed, the foot will return to its normal position.

CAUTION

• If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

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Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

① Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

① Basting

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics

When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the presser foot to the non stick foot.

① Leather

Sewing an even seam allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.

■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

① Seam Presser foot

■ Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot.

① Seam Stitch guide foot ③ Markings

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■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

① Seam ② Presser foot ③ Centimeters ④ Inches ⑤ Needle plate ⑥ 16 mm (5/8 inch)

SEWING BASICS

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3 UTILITY STITCHES

The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

• Selecting Stitching ........ 68
• Overcasting Stitches ........ 70
• Basic Stitching ........ 74
• Blind Hem Stitching ........ 76
• Buttonhole Stitching ........ 78
• Zipper Insertion ........ 85
• Zipper/piping Insertion ........ 89
• Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ........ 91
• Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ........ 93
• Reinforcement Stitching ........ 100
• Eyelet Stitching ........ 104
• Decorative Stitching ........ 105
• Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns ........ 113
• Designing a Pattern ........ 123

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

Selecting Stitching

You can select any of the various types of stitching available.

Stitch types

A total of 8 groups of stitch types (utility stitches, decorative stitches, satin stitches, cross-stitches, decorative satin stitches and 3 types of character stitches) are available. For details on the types of stitches available, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).

• Utility stitches [Icon] There are 67 utility stitches, including straight stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole stitches.
• Decorative stitches [Icon] There are 31 decorative stitches, including hearts, leaves and flowers.
• Satin stitches [Icon] There are 16 satin stitches.
• Cross-stitches [Icon] There are 5 types of cross-stitches.
• Decorative satin stitches [Icon] There are 10 decorative satin stitches.
• Character stitch—Gothic font [Icon] There are 55 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.
• Character stitch—Script font [Icon] There are 55 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Script font.
• Character stitch—Outline style [Icon] There are 55 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the outline style.

Selecting stitching

Using the operation panel keys, select the desired stitch from those shown in the LCD. Twelve of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the stitch keys. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.

1. Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
   • Refer to “Stitch types” (at the left).
2. Determine which presser foot should be used with the selected stitch. The presser feet are stored in the accessory compartment.
   • For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 128).
3. Attach the presser foot.
   • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).
4. Turn on the sewing machine.

► The straight stitch (left needle position) is shown selected in the LCD.

5. Press [Icon] (stitch selection key) in the operation panel. To select a stitch using the stitch keys, press the key of the desired stitch. Continue with step 10.

► The screen containing the various types of stitches appears.

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6 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until the type of stitch that you wish to use is selected.

7 Press OK (OK key). ► The screen containing the various stitches in the selected stitch type appears.

■ Understanding the screen

① Selected stitch type ② Number of stitches in the selected stitch type • To select a different stitch type, press (back key).

8 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until the stitch that you wish to use is selected. Press ▲ to return to the previous screen. Press ▼ to display the next screen.

9 Press OK (OK key). ► The stitch is selected.

10 If necessary, specify the setting for automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc. • For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to the following pages.

Note ● When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Memo ● For details on adjusting the stitch width and length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 55).

Selecting Stitching 69

Overcasting Stitches

Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.

1 Attach overcasting foot “G”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3 Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

① Guide

4 Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.

① Needle drop point

CAUTION

• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.