Brother NX400 owner's manual: Utility stitches

UTILITY STITCHES

Memo

• To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width.

Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the walking foot and the quilting guide.

1. Baste the fabric to be quilted.
2. Attach the walking foot.
   • For details, refer to “Using the walking foot” (page 40).
3. Select a stitch.
   • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).
4. Place one hand on each side of the presser foot, and then evenly stretch the fabric while sewing.

Note

• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.

96

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

■ Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.

1 Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.

☐ Walking foot

☐ Presser foot holder

2 Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.

Note ● The optional quilting guide is available through your brother retailer.

Free-motion quilting

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.

1 Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder. • Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 39).

2 Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side of the presser bar. The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.

3 Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

① Pin on quilting foot ② Presser foot holder screw ③ Needle clamp screw

CAUTION ● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97

UTILITY STITCHES

4 Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

① Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the machine) ② Back side ► The feed dogs are lowered.

5 Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

6 Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then move the fabric to follow the pattern. Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing.

① Pattern

7 After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

① Back side

• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at the left.

98

Satin stitching

A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller.

1 Connect the foot controller.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49).

2 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3 Turn on the sewing machine, and then press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

4 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

5 Press (OK key). ► The screen for specifying that the stitch width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller appears.

6 Press ◄ to select ON. To return to OFF, press ►.

► The machine is now set so that the stitch width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller.

7 Press (OK key). ► The initial stitch screen appears again.

8 Select stitch 60.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

9 While sewing, slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the stitch width. Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider.

Narrower Wider

• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller.

10 When you are finished sewing, set the stitch width control setting back to OFF.

Memo

• Although the stitching result differs depending on the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99

Reinforcement Stitching

Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|l|c|c|c|c|l|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline Triple stretch stitch & 4 & & Reinforcing the seams of sleeves and inseams & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & J \ \hline Bar tack stitch & 54 & – & Reinforcing the ends of openings, such as the corners of pockets & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & A \ \hline Darning stitch & 52 & – & Darning mediumweight fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.4–2.5 (1/64–3/32) & A \ \hline Darning stitch & 53 & – & Darning thick fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.4–2.5 (1/64–3/32) & A \ \hline \end{tabular}

Triple stretch stitching

Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams.

1 Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Select stitch 4

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3 Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49).

Bar tack stitching

Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below.

1 Determine the desired length of the bar tack. Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

① Presser foot scale ② Length of bar tack ③ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1–1/8 inch) can be sewn.

100

2 Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3 Select stitch 54 [stitch icon].

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4 Position the fabric so that the opening of the pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.

① 2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.

① Do not reduce the gap.

5 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.

① Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Buttonhole lever ② Bracket

6 Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.

► Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops

7 Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, and then remove the fabric.

8 Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

Memo

• If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 56).

Reinforcement Stitching 101

UTILITY STITCHES

Darning

Fabric that has been torn can be darned. Darning is sewn as shown below.

① Reinforcement stitching

1 Determine the desired length of the darning. Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

① Presser foot scale ② Length of darning ③ 5 mm (3/16 inch) ④ 7 mm (1/4 inch)

• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.

2 Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3 Select stitch 52 or 53.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4 Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned, and then lower the presser foot lever.

① Tear ② 2 mm (1/16 inch)

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size.

① Do not reduce the gap.

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5 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.

① Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Buttonhole lever ② Bracket

6 Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.

► Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops

7 Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, and then remove the fabric.

8 Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

Memo

• If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 56).

Reinforcement Stitching 103

UTILITY STITCHES

Eyelet Stitching

Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch).

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|c|l|c|l|l|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{4-7} & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline Eyelet stitch & $^{56}$ \circ & Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts & 7.0 (1/4) & 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) & 7.0 (1/4) & 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) & N \ \hline \end{tabular}

1 Attach monogramming foot “N”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Select stitch $^{56}$ \circ.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3 Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch length to select the desired eyelet size.

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 55).

4 Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.

5 Start sewing.

• Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops

6 Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the center of the eyelet.

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

Memo

• If thin thread is used, the stitching may be coarse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice, one on top of the other.

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Decorative Stitching

Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|p{4cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{4-7} & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline \multirow{2}{}{Fagoting stitch} & 26 & Sewing two pieces of fabric together across an open seam & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 27 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 2.5–7.0 (3/25–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline \multirow{3}{}{Joining stitch} & 22 & Decorative bridging stitches & 4.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.2 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & J \ \cline{2-8} & 23 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 24 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.2 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline Shell tuck stitch & 20 & Shell tuck stitching on collars and curves & 4.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline \multirow{3}{}{Smocking stitch} & 25 & Smocking fabrics to add texture and elasticity & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 26 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 27 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline Scallop stitch & 21 & Satin scallop stitching & 5.0 (3/16) & 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.1–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \ \hline \multirow{9}{}{Decorative stitch} & 33 & Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. & 3.5 (1/8) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.6–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 34 & & 6.0 (15/64) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 3.0 (1/8) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 35 & Decorative hemming and heirloom stitching, etc. on thin, mediumweight and plain weave fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 3.5 (1/8) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & N \ \cline{2-8} & 36 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 4.0 (3/16) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 37 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 38 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 39 & Decorative hemming, ribbon threading, heirloom stitching, etc. & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 3.0 (1/8) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 40 & Heirloom stitching, etc. & 6.0 (15/64) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 41 & & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline \end{tabular}

Eyelet Stitching/Decorative Stitching 105

UTILITY STITCHES

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

1. Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their seams.
2. Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

① Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
② Basting stitching
③ 4 mm (3/16 inch)

3. Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

4. Select stitch 26 or 27.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

5. Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 55).

6. Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric.

7. After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

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Scallop stitching

The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called "scalloping". It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.

1. Attach monogramming foot “N”.

*   For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2. Select stitch $^{21}$ } .

   • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3. Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

*   For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.

4. Trim along the stitches.

*   Be careful not to cut the stitches.

Smocking

The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.

1. Attach zigzag foot “J”.

*   For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2. Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension.

   • For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 56) and “Changing the tension of the upper thread” (page 54).

3. Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm (3/8 inch).

① 1 cm (3/8 inch)
*   It is not necessary to sew reverse/ reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.

4. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Decorative Stitching 107

UTILITY STITCHES

5 Select stitch 25 , 26 or 27 .

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

6 Stitch between the straight stitches.

7 Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

Shell tuck stitching

The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

1 Fold the fabric along the bias.

2 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3 Select stitch 20 , and then increase the thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4 Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

① Needle drop point

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

108

5 Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one side.

Joining

Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt.

1 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Sew together the right sides of the two pieces of fabric, and then open up the seam allowances.

① Wrong side of fabric ② 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance ③ Straight stitch

3 Select stitch 22, 23 or 24.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4 Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces up, and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.

① Right side of fabric

Decorative Stitching 109

UTILITY STITCHES

Heirloom stitching

When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or mediumweight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.

1 Install the wing needle.

• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 35).
• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

2 Attach monogramming foot "N".

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3 Select a stitch.

The stitches that can be used are 33 , 34 , 35 , 36 , 37 , 38 , 39 , 40 or 41 .

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).
• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less.

4 Start sewing.

CAUTION

• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”. This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a loose weave. Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.

■ Drawnwork (Example 1)

1 Pull out several threads from the fabric.

2 Attach monogramming foot “N”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3 Select stitch 33 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4 With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew along the right edge of the frayed section.

5 Press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

6 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

7 Press (OK key). ► The screen for mirror imaging the pattern appears.

8 Press ◄ to select [N]. To return to ►, press OFF.

► The pattern is flipped.

9 Press (OK key). ► The initial stitch screen appears again.

10 Sew along the other edge of the frayed section so that it looks like the previous stitching.

11 Set the mirror image pattern setting back to OFF.

Decorative Stitching 111

UTILITY STITCHES

■ Drawnwork (Example 2)

1. Pull out several threads from two sections of the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch).

① 4 mm (3/16 inch)

2. Attach monogramming foot “N”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3. Select stitch 36 .

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4. Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns

Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming foot “N”.

Sewing beautiful patterns

In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following must be considered.

■ Fabric Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics with a coarse weave, affix the optional stabilizer material to the wrong side of the fabric or place a thin sheet of paper, such as tracing paper, under the fabric. Since material puckering or bunched stitches may occur when satin stitches are sewn, be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric.

■ Needles and threads When sewing thin, mediumweight or stretch fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine needle. In addition, 75/11 to 90/14 thread should be used.

■ Trial sewing Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material is used, the desired result may not be achieved. Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before sewing your project. In addition, while sewing, be sure to guide the fabric with your hands in order to prevent the fabric from slipping.

Sewing patterns

1 Attach monogramming foot “N”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to steps 4 through 9 of “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3 Start sewing.

• The stitching is sewn in the direction indicated by the arrow.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 113

UTILITY STITCHES

4 Sew reinforcement stitches. When sewing with a character stitch, reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn after each character.

• When sewing a pattern with a stitch other than a character stitch, it is useful to first set the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting. For details, refer to "Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches" (page 57).

5 When you are finished sewing, use scissors to trim off any excess threads at the beginning of the stitching and between the patterns.

Combining patterns

Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn together.

1 Select the first pattern, and then press OK (OK key). ► The first pattern is selected and appears in the LCD.

• When the sewing is started, the selected pattern is sewn repeatedly until the sewing machine is stopped.

2 Press the + key in the operation panel. ► The screen for selecting a pattern appears again.

3 Select the next pattern, and then press OK (OK key). To select a different stitch type, press (stitch selection key). ► The combined patterns appear in the LCD.

• To remove a selected pattern, press the C key in the operation panel. The pattern that was selected last is removed.

4 Repeat steps 2 and 3.

5 After all of the desired patterns are selected, start sewing.

① Sewing direction ► The order that the patterns appear in the LCD is the order that they will be sewn.

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

114

Repeat sewing patterns

To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the procedure described below.

1 Select the pattern.

• For details, refer to “Combining patterns” (on the previous page).

2 Press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

3 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

4 Press (OK key). ► The screen for specifying repeat sewing appears.

5 Press ◄ to select (repeat sewing). To return to (single sewing), press ►.

6 Press (OK key). ► The initial stitch screen appears again, and the machine is set to repeatedly sew the selected pattern.

Memo

• Up to 70 patterns can be combined.
• Some utility stitches cannot be combined.
• If multiple patterns have been combined, the sewing machine stops once all the selected patterns displayed in the LCD have been sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, refer to “Repeat sewing patterns”.
• The combined pattern can be stored for later use. For details, refer to “Storing a pattern” (page 120).

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 115

UTILITY STITCHES

① Single ② Repeated

Note

• If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is stopped.
• If the sewing machine is turned off, the repeated/single sewing setting returns to its default setting.

Checking the selected pattern

Up to 70 patterns can be combined. If all of the selected patterns cannot be displayed in the LCD at the same time, the pattern can be checked according to the following procedure.

1. Press (settings key) in the operation panel.
   • The settings screen appears.
2. Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until √ABC is selected.

3. Press (OK key).
   • The screen for checking the pattern appears.
4. Press ◄ and ► to scroll through the pattern and check it.

5. Press (OK key).
   • The initial stitch screen appears again.

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

116

Changing the pattern size

The size of character stitches in the Gothic font and outline style can be switched between large and small. However, the size of other patterns cannot be changed.

1 Select a stitch. Select a character stitch in either the Gothic font or outline style.

2 Press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

3 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

4 Press (OK key). ► The screen for changing the pattern size appears.

5 Press ◄ and ► until the desired size is selected. Select for the small size or select for the large size.

► The pattern size is changed.

6 Press (OK key). ► The initial stitch screen appears again.

LEAF LEAF

Memo

• The large pattern size is the default. If the small pattern size is selected, small patterns can be combined and connected.
• If multiple patterns have been combined, the size of each selected pattern can be specified.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 117

UTILITY STITCHES

Changing the stitch density

If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the stitch density can be changed.

1. Select a decorative satin stitch .
2. Press (settings key) in the operation panel.
   • The settings screen appears.
3. Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

4. Press OK (OK key).
   • The screen for specifying the stitching density of the decorative satin stitch appears.
5. Press ◄ and ► until the desired density is selected. Select for coarser stitching or select for finer stitching.

6. Press OK (OK key).
   • The initial stitch screen appears again, and the stitching density is changed.

CAUTION

• If the stitching density is too fine, depending on the needle, the stitches may be bunched together, causing the needle to break.

Changing the pattern length

The length of one part of a satin stitch can be set to one of five sizes.

1. Select a satin stitch .
2. Press (settings key) in the operation panel.
   • The settings screen appears.
3. Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

4. Press OK (OK key).
   • The screen for changing the length of a satin stitch appears.
5. Press ◄ and ► until the desired ratio is selected. The length can be set within the range of ×1 and ×5.

• The satin stitch length is changed.

6. Press OK (OK key).
   • The initial stitch screen appears again.

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

118

Mirror imaging the pattern

The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical axis.

1. Select a stitch.
2. Press (settings key) in the operation panel.
   • The settings screen appears.
3. Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected.

4. Press (OK key).
   • The screen for mirror imaging the pattern appears.
5. Press ◄ to select ON. To return to OFF, press ►.

• The pattern is mirror imaged.

6. Press (OK key).
   • The initial stitch screen appears again.

① Normal Mirror-imaged

Memo

• Some of the utility and decorative patterns can be mirror imaged.
• Mirror imaged patterns can also be combined with other patterns.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 119

UTILITY STITCHES

Storing a pattern

Combined patterns can be stored for later use. Since stored patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off, they can be recalled at any time. This is convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be used often. Up to five patterns can be stored.

■ Storing a pattern

1. Create the combined pattern that you wish to store.
   • For details, refer to “Combining patterns” (page 114).

2. Press (stitch selection key) in the operation panel.

   • The screen containing the various types of stitches appears.

3. Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until [icon] is selected.

4. Press OK (OK key).

   • The screen for selecting the storage location (pocket) appears.

5. Press ◄ and ► until the pocket (1 through 5) where you wish to store the pattern is selected.

   • indicates an empty pocket. indicates a pocket where a pattern is already stored.

6. Press OK (OK key).

   • The contents of the selected pocket are displayed.

7. Check the contents, and then press OK (OK key).

   • The contents stored in the [icon] pocket are overwritten.
   • “Saving...” appears while the pattern is being stored in the pocket.
   • Do not turn off the sewing machine while a pattern is being stored, otherwise the pattern data may be lost.
   • After the pattern is stored, the initial stitch screen appears again.

■ Recalling a pattern

1. Press (stitch selection key) in the operation panel.

   • The screen containing the various types of stitches appears.

2. Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until [icon] is selected.

3. Press OK (OK key).

   • The screen for selecting a pocket appears.

4. Press ◄ and ► until the pocket containing the pattern that you wish to recall is selected.

   • A pattern is stored in the [icon] pocket.

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120

5 Press (OK key).

► The contents of the selected pocket are displayed.

6 Check the contents, and then press (OK key).

To select a different pocket, press (back key).

► The initial stitch screen appears again, and the pattern from the selected pocket is recalled.

Realigning the pattern

The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending on the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. If this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for your project.

1 Attach monogramming foot "N".

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

2 Press (stitch selection key) in the operation panel.

► The screen containing the various types of stitches appears.

3 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected, and then select .

► The pattern alignment stitch is selected.

4 Start sewing.

► The pattern for making the adjustment is sewn.

► The sewing machine stops after it has finished sewing the pattern.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 121

UTILITY STITCHES

5 Check the sewn pattern. If the part of the pattern indicated in the illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is correctly aligned.

If the pattern is not sewn correctly, following the steps below to adjust the sewing.

6 Press (settings key) in the operation panel. ► The settings screen appears.

7 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until +||+ is selected.

8 Press (OK key). ► The screen for adjusting the pattern appears.

9 Press ◄ (–) or ► (+).

► Make the necessary adjustments according to how the pattern is sewn.

Press ► to increase the adjustment setting.

Press ◄ to decrease the adjustment setting.

10 Start sewing again, and then check the pattern. Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn correctly.

11 When the pattern is sewn correctly, press (OK key). ► The initial stitch screen appears again.

122

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Designing a Patterrn

With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself.

Drawing a sketch of the patterrn

Prepare a grid sheet set.

1 Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet set.

Draw the pattern as one continuous line and with the start point and the end point of the design at the same height.

2 If the pattern will be repeated, determine the space between the repeating patterns.

3 Mark the points in the pattern that are positioned at intersections in the grid, and then link those points with a continuous straight line.

4 Determine the sewing order.

For a more attractive stitch, close the pattern by intersecting the line.

UTILITY STITCHES

Entering the pattern data

Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and program the pattern into the sewing machine.

1 Attach monogramming foot "N".

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

2 Turn on the sewing machine.

3 Press (stitch selection key) in the operation panel. ► The screen containing the various types of stitches appears.

4 Press ▲, ▼, ◄ and ► (arrow keys) until is selected, and then press (OK key). ► The screen for entering a pattern appears.

① Number of the current point/Total number of points ② Horizontal coordinate (0–75) ③ Vertical coordinate (0–14)

5 Check the grid sheet set, and specify the coordinates of the first point. Press ◄ and ► to select the horizontal coordinate and press ▲ and ▼ to select the vertical coordinate, and then press (OK key).

6 Specify the coordinates of the second point, and then press (OK key).

► A screen appears, allowing you to specify the settings for the stitching between the two points.

7 Specify whether single stitching or triple stitching will be sewn between the points. Press ◄ and ► to select for single stitching or for triple stitching, and then press (OK key).

► A screen for selecting the next operation appears.

8 Select, and then press (OK key).

• If you make a mistake while specifying a point, press the C key to erase the last point specified. ► A screen for specifying the next point appears.

9 Repeat steps through to specify each point. Up to 99 points can be entered.

10 After all points in the pattern have been specified, select in the screen that appears in step 8, and then press (OK key).

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124

The embroidery screen appears.

11 Specify the various stitching settings, such as reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same way as with other stitches.

• With this screen displayed, pressing \leftarrow (back key) allows you to add or remove points.

Memo

• To store the entered pattern data, store it from the embroidery screen. For details, refer to “Storing a pattern” (page 120).
• The pattern in the LCD will appear different from the pattern drawn in the grid sheet set and the actual sewn stitch. Also, refer to these when entering the design.

Designing a Pattern 125

UTILITY STITCHES

Design exampled

Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch.

126

4 APPENDIX

The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter.

• Stitch Settings ........ 128
• Maintenance ........ 135
• Troubleshooting ........ 137
• Index ........ 144

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Stitch Settings

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches

128

Stitch Settings

Stitch Settings 129