Brother NX400 owner's manual: Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.

1 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3 Sew along the edge of the fabric with the needle dropping off the edge at the right.

① Needle drop point

① Needle drop point

Memo

• For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 39).

Overcasting Stitches 71

UTILITY STITCHES

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter

Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|p{4cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{4-7} & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline \multirow{5}{}{Overcasting stitch} & 63 & Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–2.5 (0–3/32) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & \multirow{5}{}{S} \ \cline{2-7} & 64 & Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric & 3.5 (1/8) & 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) & \ \cline{2-7} & 65 & Preventing fraying in thin and mediumweight fabrics while cutting the fabric & 3.5 (1/8) & 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-7} & 66 & Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \cline{2-7} & 67 & Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline \end{tabular}

1 Remove the presser foot.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Lower the presser foot lever, and then manually thread the needle.

• The needle threader cannot be used. If the needle threader is used with the side cutter, the sewing machine may be damaged.

3 Raise the presser foot lever.

4 Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the needle clamp screw.

① Connecting fork ② Needle clamp screw

5 Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.

① Notch in presser foot holder ② Pin

► The side cutter is attached.

72

6 Raise the presser foot lever to check that the side cutter is securely attached.

7 Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.

8 Select a stitch. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

CAUTION

• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

9 Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

① 2 cm (1/16 inch)

10 Position the fabric in the side cutter. The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.

① Guide plate

• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.

11 Lower the presser foot lever, and then start sewing.

► A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.

• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the seam allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).

① 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Memo

• The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13-oz. denim.
• After using the side cutter, clean it by removing any lint or dust.
• If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.
• The optional side cutter is available through your brother retailer.

Overcasting Stitches 73

Basic Stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|l|c|c|c|c|l|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline Basting stitch & 6 | & – & Temporarily securing & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & – & – & \ \hline \multirow{2}{}{Straight stitch (left needle position)} & 1 || & & Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/reverse stitching) & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & \multirow{4}{}{J} \ \cline{2-8} & 2 : & – & Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reinforcement stitching) & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline Straight stitch (center needle position) & 3 || & & Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching) & – & – & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline Triple stretch stitch & 4 |||| & & Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline \end{tabular}

Basting

Sew basting with a stitch length of 5 mm (3/16 inch).

1 Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Select stitch 6 |.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3 Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49).

① 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Basic stitching

1 Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

2 Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3 Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4 Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

CONTENTS

GETTING READY

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

INDEX

5 Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 49).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 51).

6 When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 53).

■ Changing the needle position The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).

① Straight stitch (left needle position) ② Straight stitch (center needle position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

① Stitch width ② Distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot ③ 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) ④ 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) ⑤ 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) ⑥ 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 55).

Basic Stitching 75

UTILITY STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|l|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline \multirow{2}{*}{Blind hem stitch} & 17 & & Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics & 0.0 (0) & 3← – 3→ & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) & R \ \cline{2-9} & 18 & & Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics & 0.0 (0) & 3← – 3→ & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) & R \ \hline \end{tabular}

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

1 Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Basting stitching ③ Desired edge of hem ④ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

2 Fold back the fabric along the basting, and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Basting

3 Attach blind hem foot “R”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

4 Select a stitch. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

5 Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Fold of hem ③ Guide

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6 Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

① Needle drop point

① Stitch width

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is too far to the left. Press ▶ (of the arrow keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press ◀ (of the arrow keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric

• For details on changing the stitch width, refer to "Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length" (page 55).

7 Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot guide.

8 Remove the basting stitching.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric

Memo

• For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to "Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot" (page 39).

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Blind Hem Stitching 77

UTILITY STITCHES

Buttonhole Stitching

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and one-step buttonholes.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|p{4cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline \multirow{10}{}{\textbf{Buttonhole stitch}} & 42 & -- & Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \multirow{10}{}{A} \ \cline{2-8} & 43 & -- & Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 44 & -- & Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 45 & & Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 46 & -- & Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0–6.0 (1/8–15/64) & 1.0 (1/16) & 0.5–2.0 (1/32–1/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 47 & -- & Buttonholes for stretch fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0–6.0 (1/8–15/64) & 1.5 (1/16) & 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) & \ \cline{2-8} & 48 & -- & Bound buttonholes & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0–6.0 (0–15/64) & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 49 & -- & Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 50 & -- & Keyhole buttonholes for mediumweight and thick fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \ \cline{2-8} & 51 & -- & Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & \ \hline \textbf{Button-sewing stitch} & 55 & -- & Button sewing & 3.5 (1/8) & 2.5–4.5 (3/32–3/16) & -- & -- & M \ \hline \end{tabular}

78

Buttonhole sewing

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

① Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

① Button guide plate ② Presser foot scale ③ Pin ④ Marks on buttonhole foot ⑤ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

1 Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position and length of the buttonhole.

① Marks on fabric

2 Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole foot "A", and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

Buttonhole Stitching 79

UTILITY STITCHES

If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

① Presser foot scale ② Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of button) ③ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

① 10 mm (3/8 inch) ② 15 mm (9/16 inch)

► The size of the buttonhole is set.

3 Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

4 Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

5 Position the fabric with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

① Mark on fabric ② Red marks on buttonhole foot

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.

① Do not reduce the gap.

6 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.

① Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Buttonhole lever ② Bracket

7 Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.

► Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops

8 Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, and then remove the fabric.

80

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

9 Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

10 Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.

① Pin

11 Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.

① Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

① Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

CAUTION

• When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.

■ Changing the density of the stitching Adjust the stitch length.

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 56).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), increase the density of the stitching.

■ Changing the stitch width Adjust the stitch width.

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 55).

Memo

• Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.

1 Hook the gimp thread onto the part of buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

Buttonhole Stitching 81

UTILITY STITCHES

2. Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

   • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3. Select stitch 46 [icon] or 47 [icon].

4. Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp thread.

5. Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

6. When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack.

7. Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.

8. With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole. Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

Button sewing

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

1. Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to [icon] (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

① Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the machine) ② Back side ► The feed dogs are lowered.

2. Attach button-sewing foot “M”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

82

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

3 Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.

① Button

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

4 Select stitch ⁵⁵.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).
• Leave automatic thread-cutting set to OFF.

5 Turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

CAUTION

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

6 Start sewing.

• The sewing machine automatically stops after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice.
• Do not press the thread cutter button.

7 Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

8 When you are finished attaching the button, slide the drop feed lever to ▲▲ (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

① Back side

Buttonhole Stitching 83

UTILITY STITCHES

■ Attaching a shank to a button

To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely.

1. Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”, and then pull the shank lever toward you.

① Shank lever

2. After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching. Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching at the wrong side of the fabric.

3. Cut off any excess thread.

84

Zipper Insertion

A zipper can be sewn in place.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|l|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline Straight stitch (center needle position) & 3 & & Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks & -- & -- & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline \end{tabular}

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.

Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.

① Right side of fabric ② Stitching ③ End of zipper opening

1 Attach zigzag foot "J" and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to "Basic Stitching" (page 74).

2 Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of the fabric.

① Basting stitching ② Reverse stitches ③ Wrong side of fabric ④ End of zipper opening

3 Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric.

① Wrong side of fabric

4 Align the seam with the center of the zipper, and then baste the zipper in place.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Basting stiching ③ Zipper

5 Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper foot "I".

① Pin on the right side ② Needle drop point

• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37).

Zipper Insertion 85

UTILITY STITCHES

6 Select stitch ³ .

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

CAUTION

• When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

7 Topstitch around the zipper.

① Stitching ② Right side of fabric ③ Basting stitching ④ End of zipper opening

CAUTION

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

8 Remove the basting stitching.

Inserting a side zipper

Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings.

① Stitching ② Right side of fabric ③ End of zipper opening

The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

1 Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching” (page 74).

2 Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of the fabric.

① Basting stitching ② Reverse stitches ③ Wrong side of fabric ④ End of zipper opening

3 Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric.

① Wrong side of fabric

86

4 Press the seam allowance so that the right side (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).

① Wrong side of fabric ② 3 mm (1/8 inch)

5 Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

① Zipper teeth ② Basting stitching

6 Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper foot “I”. If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.

① Pin on the right side ② Needle drop point • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

7 Select stitch ³ . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

CAUTION

• When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

8 Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.

CAUTION

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

9 When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.

Zipper Insertion 87

UTILITY STITCHES

10 Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

① Basting stitching

11 Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin of zipper foot "I". If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in step 6, change it to the left pin.

① Pin on the left side ② Needle drop point

12 Topstitch around the zipper. Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.

① Right side of fabric ② End of zipper opening ③ Reverse stitches ④ Beginning of stitching ⑤ Basting stitching

13 When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.

14 Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper, and then continue sewing.

88

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Zipper/piping Insertion

A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.

There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot.

Inserting a centered zipper

1. Refer to step ①–④ of “Inserting a centered zipper” (page 85).

2. Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder (page 39) to attach the screw-on adjustable zipper/piping foot.

Note

• Use a screw driver to securely tighten the screw that holds the presser foot. If the screw is loose, the needle may break and cause injuries.

3. Select stitch 1 ||.

4. Loosen the positioning screw on the back of the presser foot.

① Positioning screw

5. Slide the presser foot over either the left or right feed dog.

Left sewing position Right sewing position

6. Change the needle position so that the needle does not touch the presser foot.
   For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 55).

① Needle drop point

CAUTION

• After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check the needle does not touch the presser-foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

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UTILITY STITCHES

7 Securely tighten the positioning screw with a screwdriver.

① Positioning screw

8 Topstitch around the zipper.

① Stitching ② Right side of fabric ③ Basting stitching ④ End of zipper opening

Inserting a piping

1 Place the piping between two fabrics inside out, as shown below.

① Fabric Piping ③ Fabric

2 Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable zipper/piping foot on the previous page.

3 Sew along the piping.

4 After sewing, turn them over.

! CAUTION

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

9 Remove the basting stitching.

CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

90

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|l|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline Stretch stitch & 5 & 〰️ & Stretch fabrics & 1.0 (1/16) & 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline 2-point zigzag stitch & 9 & – & Attaching elastic & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 1.0 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & J \ \hline 3-point zigzag stitch & 10 & 〰️ & Attaching elastic & 5.0 (3/16) & 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 1.0 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & J \ \hline Elastic-attaching stitch & 28 & – & Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics & 4.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.0 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & J \ \hline \end{tabular}

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching

1 Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

2 Select stitch 5 ⚡.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

3 Sew the fabric without stretching it.

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

1 Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

① Elastic tape ② Pin

2 Attach zigzag foot "J".

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

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UTILITY STITCHES

3 Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4 Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

CAUTION

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

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CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|p{4cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Presser Foot} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline Zigzag stitch & 7 & (icon) & Attaching appliqués (center baseline/reverse stitching) & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) & \ \hline & 60 & – & Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) & \ \hline Appliqué stitch & 19 & (icon) & Attaching appliqués & 3.5 (1/8) & 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.6–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline & 61 & – & Attaching appliqués and binding & 1.5 (1/16) & 0.5–5.0 (1/32–3/16) & 1.2 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline Piecing straight stitch & 57 & – & Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the right edge of the presser foot) & 5.5 (7/32) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & J \ \hline & 58 & – & Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the left edge of the presser foot) & 1.5 (1/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline Joining stitch & 22 & – & Patchwork stitching & 4.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.2 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline & 23 & – & & 5.0 (3/16) & 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline & 24 & – & & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.2 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & \ \hline Mock hand quilting stitch & 59 & – & Straight stitch quilting that looks hand quilting & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline Quilting stippling & 62 & – & Stippling & 7.0 (1/4) & 1.0–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & \ \hline \end{tabular}

Appliqué stitching

1 Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch).

① Seam allowance

2 Place a pattern made of thick paper on the back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

• Remove the thick paper after pressing the seam allowance.

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UTILITY STITCHES

3 Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it onto the fabric that it will be attached to.

① Basting stitching

4 Attach the open toe foot.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

5 Select a stitch. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

6 Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.

When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.

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Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

1. Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it over the lower piece.
2. Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the pattern spans over both pieces.

Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.

1. Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric that you wish to piece together.
2. Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 37).

3. Select stitch $^{57}$ ::P or $^{58}$ ::P.

   • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 68).

4. Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric.

   ■ For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch $^{57}$ ::P.

① 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

**■ For a seam allowance on the left side**
Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch $^{58}$ `::P`.

① 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 95