Brother QC1000 owner's manual: Sewing the stitches

SEWING THE STITCHES

Quilting

You can make beautiful quilts quickly and easily with this machine. When making a quilt, you will find it convenient to use the knee lifter and foot controller to free your hands for other tasks (see “Using the Foot Controller” on page 41 and/or see “Using the Knee Lifter” on page 42).

The 30 quilting stitches Q-01 through Q-30 and the utility stitches with “P” or “Q” indicated on their key are useful for quilting.

SEWING THE STITCHES

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Piecing

Sewing two pieces of fabric together is called piecing. When cutting pieces for quilt blocks, make sure the seam allowance is 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch).

Memo

To change the width of the seam allowance, adjust the stitch width to change the needle position.

1. Press Q-02 or Q-03, and then attach presser foot “J”.

2. Sew with the edge of the fabric aligned with the side of the presser foot.

Stitch width when Q-02 is selected

① 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
② Align with right side of presser foot.

Stitch width when Q-03 is selected

① 6.5 mm (approx. 1/14 inch)
② Align with left side of presser foot.

Memo

• The stitch width refers to the needle position, not the width of the seam allowance.
• To change the needle position, press + or - in the width display.
• After the stitch length and needle position are set as desired, the settings can be saved (see page 53).

Piecing Using the 1/4" Quilting Foot with Guide

This quilting foot can sew an accurate 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch seam allowance.
It can be used for piecing together a quilt or for topstitching.

1. Press Q-01, and then attach the 1/4" piecing foot with guide.

① Guide

SEWING THE STITCHES

2 Use the guide on the presser foot and the marks to sew accurate seam allowances.

Piecing a 1/4 inch seam allowance Sew keeping the edge of the fabrics against the guide.

① Guide ② 1/4 inch

Memo For accurate fabric placement, refer to “Needle Plate and Needle Plate Cover Marks” on page 68.

Creating an accurate seam allowance Use the mark on the foot to begin, end, or pivot 1/4 inch from edge of fabric.

① Align this mark with edge of fabric to begin. ② Beginning of stitching ③ End of stitching ④ Opposite edge of fabric to end or pivot ⑤ 1/4 inch

Memo For details on pivoting, refer to “Pivoting” on page 47.

Topstitching quilting, 1/8 inch Sew with the edge of the fabric aligned with the left side of the presser foot end.

① Surface of fabric ② Seam 1/8 inch

■ Quilting Sewing together the quilt top, batting, and backing is called quilting. You can sew the quilt with the walking foot to keep the quilt top, batting, and backing from sliding. The walking foot has a set of feed dogs that move together with the feed dogs in the needle plate during sewing.

1 Follow the steps on page 34 to remove the presser foot.

2 Loosen the screw of the presser foot holder to remove the presser foot holder.

3 Set the operation lever of the walking foot so that the needle clamp screw is set between the fork, and position the walking foot on the presser foot bar.

① Operation lever ② Needle clamp screw ③ Fork ④ Presser foot bar

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SEWING THE STITCHES

4 Lower the presser foot lever. Tighten the screw securely with the screwdriver.

5 Place one hand on each side of the walking foot to hold the fabric secure while sewing.

Note

• Sew at slow to medium speed.
• Do not sew in reverse or use stitches that require side ways or reverse feeding.
• Always check to be sure that your quilting surface is securely basted before beginning to sew. Specialized machine quilt needles and threads are also available for machine quilting.
• If “AUTOMATIC FABRIC SENSOR SYSTEM” in the machine settings screen is set to “ON”, the fabric can be fed smoothly for best sewing results. For details on the automatic fabric sensor system, refer to “Automatic Fabric Sensor System” on page 48.

■ Using the Quilting Guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.

1 Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.

Walking foot

Presser foot holder

2 Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that the guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.

■ Appliqués The seam will blend in if transparent nylon thread is used for the upper thread.

1 Trace the pattern onto the appliqué fabric, and then cut around it.

① Seam allowance: 3 to 5 mm

2 Cut a piece of thick paper or stabilizer to the finished size of the appliqué design, place it on the back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

3 Turn the applique over and remove the stabilizer or paper. Pin or bast the applique on to the main fabric.

4 Press , and then attach presser foot “J”.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

5 Check the needle drop point, and then sew along the edge of the appliqué while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

① Needle drop point

CAUTION

• Be careful that the needle does not strike a basting pin during sewing. Striking a pin can cause the needle to break, resulting in injury.

Quilting with Satin Stitches

Use the foot controller to sew with satin stitches. If you set the speed control slide to control the stitch width, you can make subtle changes in the stitch width during sewing.

1 Connect the foot controller (see page 41). 2 Press [icon], and then attach presser foot "J". 3 Press [-] in the length display to shorten the stitch length.

Memo

A stitch length between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (approx. 1/64 and 1/32 inch) is best for satin stitches, although this range varies depending on the type of fabric and thickness of thread used.

4 Press [icon].

• Change the sewing speed controller to a stitch width controller.

5 Set "WIDTH CONTROL" to "ON". The sewing speed will be adjusted using the foot controller.

6 Press CLOSE. 7 While sewing, slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the stitch width.

Memo

• Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider.
• The stitch width is adjusted equally from the middle (center) needle position. (Stitches Q-08 and 1-11 will adjust from the right, stitches Q-09 and 1-12 will adjust from the left.)

① Narrower ② Wider

8 When you are finished sewing, set "WIDTH CONTROL" back to "OFF".

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Free-motion Quilting

For free-motion quilting, use free-motion quilting foot “C” and free-motion open toe quilting foot “O” depending on the stitch that is selected, and set the machine to free-motion sewing mode. In this mode, the feed dogs are automatically lowered so the fabric can be moved freely, and the presser foot is raised to the necessary height for free-motion sewing. We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed.

Using free-motion quilting foot “C”

The free-motion quilting foot “C” is used for free-motion sewing using a straight stitch. Be sure to select a straight stitch with the middle (center) needle position or .

Free-motion quilting foot “C”

CAUTION

• With free-motion quilting, control the feeding speed of the fabric to match the sewing speed. If the fabric is moved faster than the sewing speed, the needle may break or other damage may result.
• When using free-motion quilting foot “C”, be sure to select one of the patterns with a center needle position (Q-01 or 1-30). Using any other stitch may result in the needle striking the quilting foot, causing damage or injuries.

Memo

• When starting to sew, the internal sensor detects the thickness of the fabric, and the quilting foot is raised to the height specified in the machine settings screen. Press , and then press or to change the value beside “FREE MOTION FOOT HEIGHT” on P. 2 of machine settings screen (see page 22). Increase the height that the quilting foot is raised, for example, when sewing highly elastic fabric, so that it is easier to sew.

• In order to sew with a balanced tension, it may be necessary to adjust the upper thread tension (see page 45). Test with a sample piece of quilting fabric.

1. Press to lower the feed dogs and to set the machine to free-motion sewing mode.

→ The feed dogs are lowered, and the quilting foot is raised to the necessary height for free-motion sewing.

2. Select or . → When stitch Q-01 or 1-30 is selected, free-motion foot “C” is indicated in the upper-left corner of the screen.

3. Remove the presser foot holder (see page 59).

4. Attach free-motion foot “C” at the front with the presser foot holder screw aligned with the notch in the quilting foot.

① Presser foot holder screw ② Notch

Note Make sure that the quilting foot is not slanted.

5. Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

① Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the quilting foot, causing it to bend or break.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

6 Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then move the fabric at a regular pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch) in length.

① Stitch

7 Press [icon] to cancel the free-motion sewing mode.

Using free-motion open toe quilting foot “O”

The free-motion open toe quilting foot “O” is used for free-motion quilting with zigzag or decorative stitches or for free-motion quilting of straight lines on fabric with an uneven thickness. Any stitch can be sewn with the free-motion open toe quilting foot “O”.

Free-motion open toe quilting foot “O”

Note Free-motion open toe quilting foot “O” can also be used with stitches used with free-motion foot “C” (Q-01 or 1-30). We recommend using free-motion quilting foot “O” with free-motion sewing of fabrics of uneven thicknesses.

Memo In order to sew with a balanced tension, it may be necessary to adjust the upper thread tension (see page 45). Test with a sample piece of quilting fabric.

1 Press [icon] to lower the feed dogs and to set the machine to free-motion sewing mode.

→ The feed dogs are lowered, and the quilting foot is raised to the necessary height for free-motion sewing.

2 Select a stitch.

→ When stitch Q-01 or 1-30 is selected, free-motion quilting foot “C” is indicated in the upper-left corner of the screen. When the other stitches are selected, free-motion open toe quilting foot “O” is indicated in the screen.

3 Remove the presser foot holder (see page 59).

4 Attach free-motion quilting foot “O” by positioning the pin of the quilting foot above the needle clamp screw and aligning the lower-left of the quilting foot and the presser bar.

① Pin ② Needle clamp screw ③ Presser bar

Note Make sure that the quilting foot is not slanted.

3 Utility Stitches

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SEWING THE STITCHES

5 Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

① Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the quilting foot, causing it to bend or break.

6 Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then move the fabric at a regular pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch) in length.

① Stitch

7 Press [icon] to cancel the free-motion sewing mode.

■ Echo Quilting Sewing quilting lines at equal distances around a motif is called echo quilting. The quilting lines, which appear as ripples echoing off the motif, are the distinguishing characteristic of this quilting style. Use the free-motion echo quilting foot "E" for echo quilting. Using the measurement on the presser foot as a guide, sew around the motif at a fixed interval. We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed.

Free-motion echo quilting foot “E” measurement

① 6.4 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) ② 9.5 mm (approx. 3/8 inch)

CAUTION

• With free-motion quilting, control the feeding speed of the fabric to match the sewing speed. If the fabric is moved faster than the sewing speed, the needle may break or other damage may result.

Memo

• When starting to sew, the internal sensor detects the thickness of the fabric, and the quilting foot is raised to the height specified in the machine settings screen. Press [icon], and then press [-] or [+] to change the value beside “FREE MOTION FOOT HEIGHT” on P. 2 of machine settings screen (see page 22). Increase the height that the quilting foot is raised, for example, when sewing highly elastic fabric, so that it is easier to sew.

• In order to sew with a balanced tension, it may be necessary to adjust the upper thread tension (see page 45). Test with a sample piece of quilting fabric.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

1 Press [icon] to lower the feed dogs and to set the machine to free-motion sewing mode.

2 Select a straight stitch with the middle (center) needle position [icon] or [icon].

3 Follow the steps on page 34 “Removing the Presser Foot” to remove the presser foot.

4 Loosen the presser foot holder screw, and then remove the screw and the presser foot holder.

5 Position the free-motion echo quilting foot “E” on the left side of the presser bar with the holes in the quilting foot and presser bar aligned.

6 Tighten the screw.

7 Using the measurement on the quilting foot as a guide, sew around the motif.

① 6.4 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)

Finished project

8 Press [icon] to cancel the free-motion sewing mode.

3 Utility Stitches

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches

Note When using the twin needle (see page 32), be sure to attach presser foot “J”.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|c|p{4.5cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Presser Foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch)]}} & \textbf{Twin Needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 1-01 & Straight stitch (Left) & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button. & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-02 & Straight stitch (Left) & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button. & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-03 & Straight stitch (Middle) & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-04 & Straight stitch (Middle) & J & General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2 - 5.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-05 & Triple stretch stitch & J & General sewing for reinforcement and decorative topstitching & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.5 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-06 & Stretch stitch & J & Reinforced stitching, sewing and decorative applications & 1.0 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.0 (1/16 - 1/8) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-07 & Decorative stitch & N & Decorative stitching, top stitching & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0 - 4.0 (1/16 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-08 & Basting stitch & J & Basting & 0.0 (0) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 20.0 (3/4) & 5.0 - 30.0 (3/16 - 1-3/16) & NO \ \hline \end{tabular}

① Left needle position ② Middle (center) needle position

① Reverse stitch ② Reinforcement stitch

Memo “▮” at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reverse stitches are sewn when the “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed. “•” at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reinforcement stitches are sewn when the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

1 Select a stitch.

2 Attach presser foot “J”.

3 Hold the thread ends and the fabric with your left hand, and turn the handwheel toward you with your right hand to insert the needle into the fabric at the starting point of the stitching.

① Starting point of stitching

4 Lower the presser foot lever.

5 Hold the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button pressed to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches), and then press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing slowly.

① Reverse stitches

CAUTION

• Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

6 At the end of the stitching, hold the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button pressed to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches).

7 Press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the threads.

• If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) at the beginning of stitching. When the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed at the end of stitching, the machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and cut the thread.

3 Utility Stitches

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position Stitches Only)

When you select left or middle (center) needle position stitches, you can use □ and □ in the stitch width display to change the position of the needle. Match the distance from the right edge of the presser foot to the needle with the stitch width, then align the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric during sewing for an attractive finish.

Memo

When □.□ mm appears in the stitch width display, select a different straight stitch.

① Stitch width

Needle Plate and Needle Plate Cover Marks

For a standard 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) seam allowance, set the width to 3.5 mm on the screen. While sewing, align the edge of the fabric with the 5/8 inch (approx. 16mm) mark on the needle plate.

① 5/8 inch (approx. 16 mm)
② For stitches with a middle (center) needle position
③ For stitches with a left needle position
④ Middle (center) needle position
⑤ Middle (center) needle position
⑥ Middle (center) needle position
⑦ Left needle position

Basting

1. Press □, and then attach presser foot “J”.
2. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning of the stitching.

Memo

The stitch length can be set between 5 mm and 30 mm (approx. 3/16 and 1-3/16 inches).

① Between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm (approx. 1-3/16 inches)

SEWING THE STITCHES

3 Sew while lightly guiding the fabric.

Memo This is easy to do if the foot controller is used (see page 41).

4 End the basting with reinforcement stitches.

Darts Seams

1 Press , and then attach presser foot “J”.

2 Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches at the beginning of the stitching, and then sew from the wide end to the narrow end without stretching the fabric.

• If the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is selected before sewing, reverse stitches will be sewn at the beginning of the stitching.

① Basting

3 Without sewing reverse stitches at the end of the stitching, pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of the threads, cut them, and then tie the two ends together.

4 Insert the ends of the thread into the dart with a sewing needle.

5 Iron the dart to one side.

3 Utility Stitches

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Gathering

Sew gathers on sleeves, the waist of a gathered skirt, etc.

1 Select a straight stitch, and then attach presser foot “J”.

2 Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 2.0 (weaker tension).

Memo If you press [icon], then GATHERING, the stitch length is automatically set to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension is automatically set to 2.0.

3 Pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of both the upper and bobbin threads (see “Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread” on page 28).

① Upper thread ② Bobbin thread ③ 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

4 Sew a row of straight stitches along each side of the seam line, pull out 50 mm (1-15/16 inches) of the upper and bobbin threads, and then cut the threads.

① 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 to 9/16 inch) ② Seam line ③ 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

5 Pull the bobbin threads to create the desired amount of gathering, and then tie the threads.

6 Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

7 Sew along the seam line, and then remove the basting stitch.

Flat Fell Seams

Use flat fell seams to reinforce seams and finish edges neatly.

1 Press [icon], and then attach presser foot “J”.

2 Align the fabric with right sides together, sew the seam line, and then cut off half the seam allowance from the side on which the flat fell seam will lie.

• If the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and automatic thread cutting settings are selected before sewing, reverse stitches will automatically be sewn at the beginning and end of the stitching and the thread will be cut.

① About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch) ② Wrong side of fabric

3 Spread out the fabric along the seam line.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Seam line

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SEWING THE STITCHES

4 Lay both seam allowances on the side of the shorter one (cut seam allowance) and iron them flat.

① Wrong side of fabric

5 Fold the longer seam allowance around the shorter one, and then sew along the edge of the fold.

① Wrong side of fabric

Finished flat fell seam

① Surface of fabric

Pintucks

Use pin tucks to decorate blouses.

1 Mark the positions of the folds on the wrong side of the fabric.

① Wrong side of fabric

2 Turn the fabric over, and then iron only the folds with the tip of the iron.

① Surface of fabric

3 Press , and then attach presser foot "I".

4 Attach the pin on the right side of presser foot "I" to the presser foot holder, and then sew along the folds.

• If the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and automatic thread cutting settings are selected before sewing, reverse stitches will automatically be sewn at the beginning and end of the stitching and the thread will be cut.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Surface of fabric ③ Width of pin tuck

5 Iron the folds in the same direction.

3 Utility Stitches

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SEWING THE STITCHES

Zigzag Stitches

Zigzag stitches are useful for a variety of applications, including overcasting and sewing appliqués and patchwork.

Note When using the twin needle (see page 32), be sure to attach presser foot "J".

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|p{4cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Presser Foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch)]}} & \textbf{Twin Needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 1-09 & Zigzag stitch (Middle) & J & For overcasting, mending. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-10 & Zigzag stitch (Middle) & J & For overcasting, mending. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button. & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0 - 4.0 (0 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-11 & Zigzag stitch (Right) & J & Start from right needle position, zigzag sew at left. & 3.5 (1/8) & 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.3 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline 1-12 & Zigzag stitch (Left) & J & Start from left needle position, zigzag sew at right. & 3.5 (1/8) & 2.5 - 5.0 (3/32 - 3/16) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.3 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & OK (J) \ \hline \end{tabular}

1 Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot "J".

Memo "▮▮" at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reverse stitches are sewn when the "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button is pressed. "• •" at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reinforcement stitches are sewn when the "Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch" button is pressed.

■ Overcasting Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

① Needle drop point

■ Appliqués Attach the appliqué using starch or basting, and then sew along the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge.

Memo For additional applique instructions, see page 60.

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SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Patchwork (Crazy Quilts) Turn back the desired width of fabric, place it over a different piece of fabric, and then sew the two fabric pieces together so the stitching bridges both pieces.

■ Sewing Curves Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve.

■ Using the Cord Guide Bobbin Cover

1. Remove the bobbin cover from the machine (see page 28).
2. Thread gimp thread through the hole in the cord guide bobbin cover from top to bottom. Position the thread in the notch at the back of the cord guide bobbin cover.
   • For easy thread flow through the notch, the gimp thread should not exceed 1.5 mm (approx. 1/16 inch) in diameter.

① Notch ② Gimp thread

3. Snap the cord guide bobbin cover into place, making sure that the gimp thread can be fed freely.
   • Make sure there are no restrictions when feeding the thread.

4. Set the zigzag width from 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch).
5. Attach presser foot “N”.
6. Position the fabric right side up on top of the cord and place the cord to the rear of the machine under the presser foot.

① Fabric (right side) ② Gimp thread

7. Lower the presser foot and start sewing to make a decorative finish.

3 Utility Stitches

73

Elastic Zigzag Stitches

Use elastic zigzag stitches for a wide variety of applications, including overcasting, tape attaching, and darning.

1. Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot "J".

Tape/Elastic Attaching

Stretch the tape or elastic flat. While stretching the tape or elastic flat, sew the tape or elastic to the fabric.

① Tape/elastic

Overcasting

Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of stretch fabrics. Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

Overcasting

Sew overcasting at the beginning and end of seams for skirts or pants, and at the beginning and end of all cuttings. Depending on the selected stitch, use presser foot “G” or “J” or the optional side cutter attachment.

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G”

1 Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot “G”.

2 Lower the presser foot so that the presser foot guide is flush against the edge of the fabric.

3 Sew along the presser foot guide.

① Presser foot guide

CAUTION

• After the stitch width is adjusted, turn the handwheel toward you by hand and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may break and cause injury.

① The needle should not touch

• If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, the needle may strike the presser foot.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”

1 Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot “J”.

2 Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

Memo

For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot.

① Needle drop point

Overcasting Using the Optional Side Cutter

By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.

CAUTION

• Make sure to only select one of the stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break, possibly causing injury.

Memo

Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the needle threader.

1. Follow the steps on page 34 to remove the presser foot.

2. Position the fork on the side cutter’s operating lever onto the needle clamp screw.

① Needle clamp screw
② Operating lever

Memo

Make sure that the fork of the operating lever is set onto the needle clamp screw firmly.

3. Position the side cutter so that the side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then lower the presser foot.

① Notch in presser foot holder
② Pin

→ The side cutter is attached.

SEWING THE STITCHES

4 Select a stitch.

5 Make a cut of approximately 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric.

① 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch)

6 Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot.

① Guide plate (lower knife) ② Presser foot

7 Thread the needle manually and pull out a long section of the upper thread. Pass it below the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric feed direction.

① Presser foot ② Upper thread

8 Start sewing.

→ A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.

Note If the width has been adjusted, turn the handwheel by hand to check that the needle does not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches the side cutter, it might cause the needle to break.

■ When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Optional Side Cutter The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch).

① Seam margin

Memo

• The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is simply spread out underneath the presser foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained in step 6 from the previous section, and then start sewing.

• One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.
• Clean the side cutter after use to avoid having dust and scraps of thread build up on it.
• Add a small amount of oil as required to the cutting edge of the cutter.

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Blind Hem Stitches

Select a blind hem stitch to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|l|c|c|c|c|l|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Presser Foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch)]}} & \textbf{Twin Needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 2-01 & Blind hem stitch & R & Hemming woven fabrics & 00 & 3←--→3 & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.5 (1/16 - 1/8) & NO \ \hline 2-02 & Blind hem stitch & R & Hemming stretch fabric & 00 & 3←--→3 & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.5 (1/16 - 1/8) & NO \ \hline \end{tabular}

1 Select a stitch.

Memo For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot.

2 Place the fabric wrong side up, and then fold and baste the fabric as shown.

① 5 mm ② Wrong side of fabric ③ Basting

3 Fold the fabric again, as shown.

① 5 mm ② 5 mm ③ Basting ④ Wrong side of fabric

4 Attach presser foot "R", and then lower the presser foot so that the presser foot guide is flush against the fold of the fabric.

① Presser foot guide ② Fold

5 Sew while keeping the fold in the fabric against the presser foot guide.

① Needle position ② Presser foot guide

79

SEWING THE STITCHES

6 Remove the basting, and then turn over the fabric.

① Wrong side of fabric ② Surface of fabric

Memo Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the needle does not catch the fold on the left side. However, if the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and too much of the seam will appear on the surface of the fabric, leaving an unattractive finish. If either of these occur, follow the instructions below to correct the problem.

■ If the Needle Does Not Catch the Fold Press [−] in the width display so that the needle slightly catches the fold.

■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold Press [+] in the width display so that the needle slightly catches the fold.

Appliqués

1 Use a temporary spray adhesive or basting to attach the appliqué to the fabric.

① Appliqué ② Fabric glue

2 Press or **.

Memo

• Adjust the stitch width and length according to the shape, size and fabric quality of the appliqué (see page 44).
• For details on the stitches, refer to the "STITCH SETTING CHART" at the end of this manual.

3 Attach presser foot “J”, and then sew along the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge.

① Appliqué

① Needle drop point

80

SEWING THE STITCHES

Sewing Sharp Curves Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing for an attractive finish to the seam. The pivot setting is useful when changing the sewing direction. When the machine is stopped at the corner of the fabric, the machine stops with the needle in the fabric and the presser foot is automatically raised so the fabric can easily be rotated (see “Pivoting” on page 47).

Shell Tuck Stitching

The arched tuck that looks like shells lined up in a row is called a shell tuck. In addition to edging, this decorative stitching can be used on the neckline or sleeves of dresses and blouses.

1. Press [icon: stitch selection dial showing 2-04].

   Memo For details on the stitches, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

2. Increase the thread tension for an attractive scalloped finish to the shell tuck stitching.

   Memo If the thread tension is too loose, the shell tuck stitching will not scallop.

3. Fold the fabric in half along the bias.

**Note**
Use a thin fabric.

4. Attach presser foot “J”, and then sew along the edge of the fabric, making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge.

① Needle drop point

5. Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one side.

Scalloping

Scallop stitching (wave-shaped running stitching) can be used to decorate the edges of blouse collars and handkerchiefs.

1. Press [icon: stitch selection dial showing 2-05], and then attach presser foot “N”.

   Memo

   • If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning of stitching. When the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed at the end of stitching, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches and cut the thread.
   • For best results, apply starch and iron the fabric before sewing.
   • For details on the stitches, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

81

3 Utility Stitches

SEWING THE STITCHES

2 Leave a seam when sewing the scallop stitches so that the pattern is not sewn directly on the edge of the fabric.

Note Sew test stitches on the fabric before sewing on your project.

3 Trim along the seam, making sure not to cut the stitches.

Top Stitching

For a decorative effect in a crazy quilt, stitches can be sewn over a pressed seam allowance.

1 Select a straight stitch, and then attach presser foot “J”.

2 With right sides together, sew two pieces of fabric, and then open the seam allowances.

① 6.5 mm (1/4inch) ② Wrong side of fabric ③ Straight stitch ④ Seam allowance

3 Turn the fabric over so the right side faces up, and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.

• Select one of the following stitches.

① Surface of fabric

Smocking

The decorative stitching created by sewing over gathers is called smocking. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.

1 Select a straight stitch, and then attach presser foot “J”.

Note Make sure that the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and automatic thread cutting settings are not selected.

2 Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 2.0 (loose tension).

3 Pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of both the upper and bobbin threads.

4 Sew stitching 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) apart.

① Approximately 10mm (approx. 3/8 inch)

SEWING THE STITCHES

5 Pull the bobbin threads to create the desired amount of gather, and then smooth the gathers by ironing them.

6 Press [icon: 2-10] or [icon: 2-12] **.

Memo For details on the stitches, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

7 Sew between the straight stitches.

8 Pull out the straight stitch threads.

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called fagoting. It is used on blouses and children’s clothing.

1 Separate the two pieces of fabric by about 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch), and baste them onto thin paper.

① 4 mm ② Thin paper ③ Basting

2 Press [icon: 2-11] or [icon: 2-12] , and then set the stitch width to the maximum (7.0 mm).

Memo For details on the stitches, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

3 Attach presser foot “J”, and then sew with the presser foot centered between the two pieces of fabric.

Memo This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

① Basting

4 When you are finished sewing, gently tear off the paper.

3 Utility Stitches

83

SEWING THE STITCHES

Tape or Elastic Attaching

Elastic tape is sewn onto the fabric unstretched.

1. Select a straight stitch, and then attach presser foot “J”.

   Note Make sure that the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and automatic thread cutting settings are not selected.

2. Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 2.0 (weaker tension).

3. Pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of both the upper and bobbin threads (see “Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread” on page 28).

① Upper thread
② Bobbin thread
③ 50 mm

4. Sew two rows of straight stitches on the surface of the fabric, and then pull the bobbin threads to create the desired amount of gather.

5. Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric with the elastic tape evenly positioned on the gathers.

① Elastic tape

6. Press [icon: zigzag stitch] or [icon: straight stitch].

   Memo For details on the stitches, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” at the end of this manual.

7. While pulling the elastic tape so that it is about the same length as the fabric, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand, and feed the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand according to the feeding speed.

   Memo This is easy to do if the foot controller is used.

**CAUTION**
*   Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

8. Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

84

SEWING THE STITCHES

Heirloom Stitching

By sewing with the wing needle sold separately, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This stitching is used to decorate tablecloths, hems, and shirt fronts.

■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch)

Note For best results, use lightweight to medium weight homespun fabrics with a slight stretch.

1 Insert the wing needle (130/705H, size 100/16).

Note The needle threader cannot be used. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front. If the needle threader is used, damage to the machine may result.

2 Select a stitch, attach presser foot “N”, and then start sewing.

• Select a stitch between 3-01 and 3-22.

CAUTION

• The needle threader cannot be used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from front to back. Using the needle threader may result in damage to the machine.
• A more attractive finish can be obtained if you use a “130/705H Wing” needle when sewing these patterns. If using a wing needle and the stitch width has been set manually, check that the needle will not touch the presser foot by carefully rotating the handwheel before starting sewing.

Memo For details on the stitches, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1))

3 Utility Stitches

85

SEWING THE STITCHES

1 Pull out several threads from the fabric to leave a 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) area open.

Memo For best result, use loosely woven fabrics.

2 Press [icon: stitch width 3-04], and then attach presser foot “N”.

Memo For details on the stitches, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

3 With the surface of the fabric facing up, sew along the right edge of the open area.

4 Press [icon: mirror image] to create a mirror image of the stitch.

5 Sew along the left edge of the open area so that the stitching looks symmetrical.

■ Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2))

Memo Drawn work can also be sewn using the wing needle (sold separately).

1 Pull out several threads from both sides of a 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area left unopened, as shown in the illustration.

① Pulled out thread ② Pulled out area ③ Approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) remaining

2 Press [icon: stitch pattern 3-10].

Memo For details on the stitches, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

3 Attach presser foot “N”, and then sew along the center of the unopened area.

86

Buttonhole Stitches

Select the desired buttonhole stitch according to your application and the size of the button.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|c|p{3.5cm}|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Key} & \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Presser Foot} & \textbf{Applications} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch width [mm (inch)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{\textbf{Stitch length [mm (inch)]}} & \textbf{Twin Needle} \ \cline{5-8} & & & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \ \hline 4-01 & Narrow rounded buttonhole & A & Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-02 & Wide round ended buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with extra space for larger buttons & 5.5 (7/32) & 3.5 - 5.5 (1/8 - 7/32) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-03 & Tapered round ended buttonhole & A & Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-04 & Round ended buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with vertical bar tack in heavyweight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-05 & Round double ended buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for fine, medium to heavyweight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-06 & Narrow squared buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-07 & Stretch buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) & 1.0 (1/16) & 0.5 - 2.0 (1/32 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-08 & Heirloom buttonhole & A & Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) & 1.5 (1/16) & 1.0 - 3.0 (1/16 - 1/8) & NO \ \hline 4-09 & Bound buttonhole & A & The first step in making bound buttonholes & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0 - 6.0 (0 - 15/64) & 2.0 (1/16) & 0.2 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) & NO \ \hline 4-10 & Keyhole buttonhole & A & Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for larger flat buttons & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-11 & Tapered keyhole buttonhole & A & Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics for larger flat buttons & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline 4-12 & Keyhole buttonhole & A & Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) & NO \ \hline \end{tabular}

Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

① Reinforcement stitching

SEWING THE STITCHES 3 Utility Stitches 87

SEWING THE STITCHES

1 Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot “A”.

2 Mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

Memo The maximum buttonhole length is 28 mm (approx. 1-1/6 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).

3 Pull out the button holder plate on the presser foot, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

• The size of the buttonhole is set by clamping the button in the button holder plate.

Note Pass the thread under the presser foot.

① Button holder plate

4 Hold the outside frame of the buttonhole foot toward the back with your finger, and then lower the presser foot so that the mark on the fabric aligns with the marks on the buttonhole foot.

① Mark on fabric ② Marks on presser foot

Note

• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”, as shown in the illustration. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at the correct size.
• Pass the thread under the presser foot.

5 Pull down the buttonhole lever.

• The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot, as shown in the illustration.

① Buttonhole lever

① Metal bracket

88