Brother ULT2003D owner's manual: Heirloom

Heirloom

■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy stitch)

Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and decorative stitching on shirt fronts.

1. Use a light to medium weight homespun fabric with a little stiffness.

2. Insert needle type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing needle.

CAUTION

• The needle threader lever can not be used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from front to back. Using the needle threader lever may result in damage to the machine.
• A more attractive finish can be obtained if you use “130/705H Wing” needle when sewing these patterns. If using a wing needle and the stitch width has been set manually, check that the needle will not touch the presser foot before starting sewing by carefully rotating the balance wheel.

3. Select a stitch pattern, attach presser foot “J”, and start sewing.

• Select any pattern between 3-01 and 3-22.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-49

■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn work)

1. Pull out several threads from one area on a piece of fabric to open the area. Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm (1/8 inch) area open.

Note Loosely woven fabrics work best for this.

2. Select .

3. Attach presser foot “N”. With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the open area.

3-50 Sewing Utility Stitches

4. Press [icon: two triangles pointing in opposite directions] to create a mirror image of the stitch pattern.

5. Sew the opposite side to keep the pattern symmetrical.

6. Illustration of finished product.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-51

■ Hemstitching (3)

1. Pull out several threads from both sides of the 4 mm (3/16 inch) area which is not yet open. (Pull out four threads, leave five threads and then pull out four threads, the width of five threads is approximately 4 mm (3/16 inch) or less.) ① Approx. 4 mm (3/16 inch) or less ② Four threads (pull out) ③ Five threads (leave)

2. Select .

3. Sew the decorative stitch on the center of the five threads created above.

   • Using a wing needle is an option.

4. Illustration of finished product.

3-52 Sewing Utility Stitches

Buttonholes

Buttonholes will sew from the front to back of the buttonhole foot. For best results, place horizontal positioned buttonhole to sew on the garment from the center to the edge of the placket.

*1 For use on low stress or decorative applications *2 For use on average stress applications *3 For use on high stress or utility applications

1. Select a stitch pattern, and attach buttonhole foot "A".

4-01 Narrow rounded buttonhole on light to medium weight fabric *2 4-02 Wide round ended buttonhole on medium weight fabric with extra space for larger buttons *2 4-03 Tapered reinforced waist closure buttonhole on medium to heavyweight fabrics *3 4-04 Round ended buttonhole with reinforced bar tack in heavyweight fabrics *3 4-05 Round ended buttonhole with reinforced bar tack in heavyweight fabrics *3 4-06 Round double ended buttonhole for fine medium to heavyweight fabrics *1 4-07 Narrow squared buttonhole for light and medium weight fabrics *1 4-08 Wide squared buttonhole for light to medium weight fabric with extra space for larger decorative buttons *1 4-09 Squared heavy-duty buttonhole with reinforced bar tacks in medium to heavyweight fabrics *3 4-10 Stretch buttonhole with reinforced bar tacks in light to medium weight stretch fabrics, medium to heavyweight tightly woven fabrics, heavyweight fabrics with stretch fabrics *2 4-11 Heirloom buttonhole for light to medium weight stretch fabric. Designed to stretch with and stabilize the base fabric *3 4-12 Bound buttonhole the first step in making bound buttonholes

For tailored and/or decorative front closures

4-13 Keyhole buttonhole in heavyweight fabrics for larger flat buttons *2 4-14 Tapered keyhole buttonhole in medium to heavyweight fabrics for larger flat buttons *2 4-15 Keyhole buttonhole with reinforcement in heavyweight fabrics for larger flat buttons *3

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-53

2. Mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

Note The maximum buttonhole length is 30 mm (1-3/16 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button)

3. Attach buttonhole foot “A”. Pull out the button holder plate on the presser foot, and insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole, then tighten the button holder plate around the button.

• The size of the buttonhole is decided by the button holder plate holding the button. ① Button holder plate

4. Align the presser foot with the mark on the fabric, and lower the presser foot lever. ① Mark on the fabric ② Mark on the presser foot

CAUTION

• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible as shown in the illustration, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.

• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

3-54 Sewing Utility Stitches

5. Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot. ① Metal bracket

6. Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and then start sewing. Feed the fabric carefully by hand while the buttonhole is sewn. Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then stops.

Note If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting.

7. Insert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, and then insert the seam ripper into the center of the buttonhole and cut towards the pin. ① Basting pin

CAUTION When using the seam ripper to open the buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and cause injury.

For Keyhole Buttonholes: Use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole. Then insert a pin along the inside of one of the bar tacks, insert a seam ripper into the hole made with the eyelet punch, and cut towards the pin. ① Eyelet punch ② Basting pin

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-55

Sewing Stretch Fabrics

When sewing on stretch fabric with 4-10 4-11, sew the buttonhole stitches over a gimp thread.

1. Hook the gimp thread onto the back of presser foot “A”. Insert the ends into the grooves at the front of the presser foot, and then temporarily tie it there. ① Upper thread

2. Lower the presser foot lever and start sewing.

Note Set the stitch width to the width of the gimp thread.

3. Once sewing is completed, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack, and trim off any excess.

Note After using the seam ripper to cut open the threads over the buttonhole, trim off the threads.

Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do not Fit into the Button Holder Plate

Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the size of the buttonhole. One mark on the presser foot scale equals 5 mm (3/16 inch). Add together the button diameter and its thickness, and then set the plate at the calculated value. ① Presser foot scale ② Button holder plate ③ Completed measurement of diameter + thickness ④ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch), a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the scale should be set at 25 mm (1 inch).

① 10 mm (3/8 inch) ② 15 mm (9/16 inch)

Darning

Use this stitch pattern for mending and other applications.

1. Select a stitch pattern.

   • 4-16 For medium weight fabrics
   • 4-17 For heavyweight fabrics

2. Attach buttonhole foot "A" and set the scale to the desired length of the darning.

Note The maximum length of darning is 30 mm (1-3/16 inch). ① Presser foot scale ② Completed measurement ③ Width 7 mm (1/4 inch) ④ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

3. Check that the needle drops at the desired position and lower the presser foot lever, making sure the upper thread passes underneath the buttonhole foot.

CAUTION

• Set the presser foot so that there is no gap behind the section marked with an "A" (in the shaded area in the illustration to the right). If there is a gap, the size of the darning will not be correct.
• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-57

4. Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot. ① Metal bracket

5. Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and then press the “Start/Stop” button to start the machine. Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then stops.

Note If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting.

Darning Stitch Cycle

① Cycle of reinforcement stitches

3-58 Sewing Utility Stitches

Bar Tacks

Use bar tacks to reinforce areas that will be subject to strain, such as pocket corners.

1. Select 4-18.

2. Attach buttonhole foot “A” and set the scale to the length of the bar tack you wish to sew.

Note Bar tacks can be between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-3/16 inch). Bar tacks are usually between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 10 mm (3/8 inch). ① Presser foot scale ② Completed measurement ③ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

CAUTION Be sure the thread passes under the presser foot.

3. Set the fabric so that the pocket moves towards you during sewing.

CAUTION

• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible as shown in the illustration, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the bar tack will not be sewn to the correct size.
• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-59

4. Check the first needle drop point and lower the presser foot. ① 2 mm (1/16 inch)

5. Lower the buttonhole lever so that it is positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot. ① Metal bracket

6. Gently hold the end of the upper thread and begin sewing. When sewing is completed, the machine will sew reinforcement stitches and stop automatically.

Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics Place a piece of folded fabric or cardboard beside the fabric being sewn to level off the buttonhole foot and allow for easier feeding.

Note If automatic thread cutting is turned on before you start sewing, both threads are automatically cut after the reinforcement stitches are sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, because it is too thick), increase the stitch length setting.

① Presser foot ② Thick paper

3-60 Sewing Utility Stitches

Button Sewing

CAUTION Do not use the automatic thread cutting function when sewing buttons. Otherwise, you will lose the thread ends.

1. Select 4-19 .

2. Raise the presser foot lever and detach the flat bed table attachment. Move the feed dog position switch to the right to lower the feed dogs. ① Feed dog position switch

3. Attach button sewing foot “M”, place the button in the presser foot, and lower the presser foot lever.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-61

4. Turn the balance wheel to check that the needle goes into each hole correctly. Then, gently hold the end of the upper thread and start sewing. The machine stops automatically when sewing is finished.

CAUTION Make sure the needle does not strike the button during sewing. The needle may break, leading to injury.

Note

• To attach the button more securely, repeat the process.
• If the needle does not reach the holes on the left side, adjust the stitch width.

5. From the wrong side of the fabric, pull the end of the bobbin thread to pull the upper thread through to the wrong side of the fabric. Tie the two thread ends together and cut the threads.

6. When sewing is completed, be sure to return the feed dog position switch to its original position. ① Feed dog position switch

■ Attaching 4 Hole Buttons

Sew the two holes closest to you. Then raise the presser foot lever and move the fabric so that the needle goes into the next two holes, and sew them in the same way.

■ Attaching a Shank to the Button

1. Pull the shank lever toward you before sewing. ① Shank lever

2. Pull the two ends of the upper thread between the button and the fabric, wind them around the shank, and then tie them firmly together.
3. Tie the ends of the bobbin thread from the beginning and end of sewing together on the wrong side of the fabric.

Eyelet

Use this stitch pattern for making belt holes and other similar applications.

1. Select .

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-63

2. Use \boxed- \boxed+ in either the stitch width display or the stitch length display to choose the size of the eyelet. Large 7 mm (1/4 inch), Medium 6 mm (15/64 inch), Small 5 mm (3/16 inch) actual size.

A B C

3. Attach monogramming foot “N”, then turn the balance wheel to check the needle drop position. Lower the presser foot lever and start sewing. When sewing is finished, the machine sews reinforcement stitches and stops automatically. ① Needle drop position

4. Use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the center of the stitching.

3-64 Sewing Utility Stitches

Multi-directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch)

To attach patches or emblems to pant legs, shirt sleeves, etc.

1. Remove the flat bed attachment to create the free arm function.

2. Select 5-07 , and attach monogramming foot “N”.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-65

3. Set the needle in the fabric at the sewing start point, and sew seam “1” as shown.

① Start Point

4. Select [image: 5-04 stitch pattern] and sew seam “2” as shown.

• The fabric will move sideways, so guide the fabric by hand to keep sewing straight.

5. Select [image: 5-02 stitch pattern] and sew seam “3” as shown. The fabric feeds forward while stitching backward.

6. Select [image: 5-05 stitch pattern] and sew seam “4” as shown, connecting the seam to the starting point of seam 1.

Note Follow the same steps for multi-directional sewing with zigzag stitches.

3-66 Sewing Utility Stitches

Zipper Insertion

■ Centered Zipper

Use for bags and other such applications.

1. Select 1-03 .

CAUTION Make sure you sew using the middle needle position.

2. Attach presser foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. Change to a basting stitch and sew to the top of the fabric. ① Basting stitches ② Reverse stitches ③ End of zipper opening ④ Reverse side

3. Press the seam allowance open and attach the zipper with a basting stitch in the middle of each side of the zipper tape. ① Basting stitches ② Zipper ③ Reverse side

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-67

4. Remove presser foot “J”. Align the right side of the pin in zipper foot “I” with the presser foot holder, and attach the zipper foot. ① Right Left ③ Needle drop position

CAUTION When using zipper foot “I”, make sure the straight stitch, middle needle position is selected. Turn the balance wheel to make sure the needle does not strike the presser foot. If another stitch is selected, the needle will strike the presser foot, causing the needle to break and possible leading to injury.

5. Topstitch 7 to 10 mm (1/4 to 3/8 inch) from the seamed edge of the fabric, then remove the basting.

CAUTION Make sure the needle does not strike the zipper during sewing. If the needle strikes the zipper, the needle may break, leading to injury.

■ Inserting a Side Zipper Use for side zippers in skirts or dresses.

1. Select .

CAUTION Make sure you sew using the middle needle position.

2. Attach presser foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening. Change to a basting stitch and sew to the top of the fabric. ① Reverse stitches ② Wrong side of fabric ③ Basting stitches ④ End of zipper opening

3. Press the seam allowance open and align the folded hem along the teeth of the zipper, while maintaining 3 mm (1/8 inch) for the sewing space. ① Zipper pull tab ② Wrong side of fabric ③ Zipper teeth ④ End of zipper opening ⑤ 3 mm (1/8 inch)

4. Remove presser foot “J”. Align the right side of the pin in zipper foot “I” with the presser foot holder, and attach the presser foot. ① Right ② Left ③ Needle drop position

CAUTION When using zipper foot “I”, make sure the straight stitch, middle needle position is selected. Turn the balance wheel to make sure the needle does not strike the presser foot. If another stitch is selected, the needle will strike the presser foot, causing the needle to break and possible leading to injury.

5. Set the presser foot in the 3 mm (1/8 inch) margin. Starting from the end of the zipper opening sew to a point about 50 mm (2 inch) from the edge of the fabric, then stop the machine. Pull down the zipper slider, then continue sewing to the edge of the fabric. ① 50 mm (2 inch) ② 3 mm (1/8 inch)

CAUTION Make sure the needle does not strike the zipper during sewing. If the needle strikes the zipper, the needle may break, leading to injury.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-69

6. Close the zipper, turn the fabric over, and sew a basting stitch. ① Front of the skirt (wrong side of fabric) ② Basting stitches ③ Front of the skirt (right side of fabric) ④ Back of the skirt (right side of fabric)

7. Remove the presser foot, and reattach it so that the left side of the pin is attached to the presser foot holder.
   • When sewing the left side of the zipper, the needle should drop on the right side of the presser foot. When sewing the right side of the zipper, the needle should drop on the left side of the presser foot. ① Right ② Left ③ Needle drop position

8. Set the fabric so that the left edge of the presser foot touches the edge of the zipper teeth. Sew reverse stitches at the top of the zipper, then continue sewing. Stop sewing about 50 mm (2 inch) from the edge of the fabric, leave the needle in the fabric, and remove the basting stitches. Open the zipper and sew the rest of the seam. ① Basting stitches ② 7 to 10 mm (1/4 inch to 3/8 inch) ③ Reverse stitches ④ 50 mm (2 inch)

3-70 Sewing Utility Stitches