Brother ULT2003D owner's manual: Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”

Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”

1. Select a stitch pattern.

   1-18 For sewing stretch fabrics 1-19 For sewing medium stretch fabrics and heavyweight fabrics 1-20 For sewing stretch fabrics 1-21 For sewing knit stretch fabrics 1-22 For sewing stretch fabrics 1-23 For sewing stretch fabrics

2. Attach presser foot “J”. Sew with the needle dropping slightly off the edge of the fabric.

① Needle drop position

3-24 Sewing Utility Stitches

■ Overcasting Using the Side Cutter

By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabrics.

1. Push the “Needle Position” button to raise the needle, then turn off the power.
2. Raise the presser foot lever.

3. Press the black button on the presser foot holder, and remove the presser foot.

4. Set the fork of the operating lever around the needle clamp screw. ① Needle clamp screw ② Operating lever

• Make sure that the fork of the operating lever is set onto the screw firmly.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-25

5. Slowly lower the presser foot lever, and then position the pin on the presser foot (side cutter) in the notch of the presser foot holder to attach the presser foot (side cutter).

6. Select a stitch pattern. If there is an “S” in the bottom of the key display, the indicated stitch pattern can be sewn with the side cutter.

1-24 Normal sewing 1-25 Zigzag stitch 1-26 Overcasting stitch for light and medium weight fabrics 1-27 Overcasting stitch for heavyweight fabrics 1-28 Overcasting stitch for medium and heavyweight stretch fabrics

7. Make a cut of about 20 mm (3/4 inch) in the fabric. ① 20 mm (3/4 inch)

3-26 Sewing Utility Stitches

8. Place the fabric as shown left figure B.

• Right side of cut: on top of the guide plate
• Left side of cut: underneath the presser foot ① Guide plate (lower knife) ② Presser foot

9. Thread the needle, then pull out a long section of the upper thread, pass it below the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric feed direction (see left figure B). ② Presser foot ③ Upper thread

10. Lower the presser foot lever.

CAUTION If the width has been adjusted, turn the balance wheel by hand to check that the needle does not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches the side cutter, it may cause the needle to break.

When Sewing Straight Stitches only The seam margin should be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).

① Seam margin

• Make sure you select a pattern for the side cutter.
• Clean the side cutter after use, to avoid having dust and scraps of thread build up on it.
• Add a small amount of oil as required to the cutting edge of the cutter.

Note

• The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is simply spread out underneath the presser foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained in step 8, and then start sewing.
• Check that the needle is raised when the presser foot lever is raised.
• One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-27

Quilting

You can make beautiful, quilts quickly and easily with this machine. When making a quilt, you will find it convenient to use the knee lifter and foot controller (see pages 1-7) to free your hands for other tasks.

If there is a “P” or “Q” at the bottom of the key display, the indicated stitch pattern is intended for quilting.

1-29 Piecing straight stitch “RIGHT” Straight stitch for piecing. The default stitch length is 1.6 mm (1/16 inch). Default stitch width (needle position) is 5.5 mm (7/32 inch). The stitch is set short to keep the stitching from coming loose during construction of the quilt block. This is a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance when placing the edge of the fabric along the right edge of the presser foot (see Illustration Ⓐ on page 3-29).

1-30 Piecing straight stitch “LEFT” Straight stitch for piecing. The default stitch length is 1.6 mm (1/16 inch). Default stitch width (needle position) is 1.5 mm (1/16 inch). The stitch is set short to keep the stitching from coming loose during construction of the quilt block. This is a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance when placing the edge of the fabric along the left edge of the presser foot (see Illustration Ⓑ on page 3-29).

1-31 Hand look quilting stitch You can create the appearance of a hand quilted look by using transparent nylon thread in the needle and bobbin thread matching the color of the quilt. When using with the nylon thread, strengthen the upper thread tension. Use this stitch for quilting small to large projects.

1-32 Quilting appliqué zigzag stitch Use this stitch to appliqué quilt blocks, garments, etc. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of appliqué.

1-33 Quilting appliqué stitch Use this stitch for “invisible” appliqué or attaching binding.

1-34 Quilting Stippling stitch Use this stitch to quilt small areas such as vests, jackets, pillows, etc.

■ Piecing

Sewing two pieces of fabric together is called piecing. When cutting pieces for quilt blocks make sure the seam allowance is 6.5 mm (1/4 inch).

1. Select or , and attach presser foot "J".

A To align a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance with the right edge of the presser foot.

(Stitch 1-29)

① 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

B To align a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance with the left edge of the presser foot.

(Stitch 1-30)

① 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

2. Align the edge of the fabric with the edge of the presser foot, and start sewing.

To change the needle position use or in the width display.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-29

Quilting

Sewing together the quilt front, batting, and backing is called quilting. You can sew the quilt with the walking foot to keep the quilt front, batting, and backing from sliding. Your walking foot has a set of feed dogs that match the reaction of the feed dogs that rise above the surface of the needle plate as you sew.

1. Attach the walking foot (see page 1-40).

2. Select or .

3. Place one hand on each side of the presser foot to hold the fabric securely. Sew while holding the fabric.

Note

• Sew in slow to medium speed.
• Do not sew in reverse or use stitches that require side ways or reverse feeding Always check to be sure that your quilting surface is securely basted before beginning to sew. Machine quilt specialized needles and threads are also available for machine quilting.

3-30 Sewing Utility Stitches

■ Appliqué

1. Trace the pattern onto the appliqué fabric and then cut around it, leaving 3 to 5 mm (1/8 to 3/16 inch) seam allowance.

① Seam allowance : 3 to 5 mm (1/8 to 3/16 inch)

2. Place a piece of thick paper cut to the finished size of the appliqué design onto the fabric, and then fold over the seam margin using an iron. Clip curves when necessary.

3. Turn the appliqué over, and attach the thick paper with basting pins or a basting stitch.

4. Select [image: stitch selection screen showing '1-33' selected], and attach presser foot "J".

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-31

5. Use the quilting appliqué stitch to attach the appliqué. Sew around the edge, while dropping the needle as close to the edge as possible.

CAUTION Be careful that the needle does not strike a basting pin during sewing. Striking a pin can cause the needle to break, resulting in injury.

① Dresden plate ② Stained glass ③ Sunbonnet sue

3-32 Sewing Utility Stitches

■ Quilting with Satin Stitches

Use the foot controller to sew with satin stitch. If you set the speed control lever to control the stitch width, you can make subtle changes in the stitch width during sewing.

1. Attach the foot controller. ① Foot controller ② Foot controller jack

2. Select , and attach presser foot "J".

3. Press $-$ in the LENGTH display to shorten the stitch length.

• The setting will vary according to the kind of fabric and the thickness of the thread, but a length of 0.3 to 0.5 mm (1/64 to 1/32 inch) is best for satin stitch patterns.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-33

4. Set the speed control slide to control the stitch width. Press .

5. In the display, change the setting to “ON.”

During this process:

• You can use the speed control slide to adjust the stitch width.
• Use the foot controller to adjust the sewing speed.

6. Press CLOSE to return to the original screen.

7. You can adjust the stitch width during sewing by moving the sewing speed controller. Slide the lever to the left, and the stitch width becomes narrower. Slide it to the right, the stitch width becomes wider. The size of the width changes equally on both sides of the middle needle position.

① narrower ② wider

3-34 Sewing Utility Stitches

Blind Hem Stitches

Select from these stitches to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts.

1. Select a stitch pattern. 2-01 For woven fabrics 2-02 For stretch fabrics (jersey, knit fabrics)

2. Place the fabric wrong side up. Fold and baste the fabric as illustrated. ① 5 mm (3/16 inch) ② Basting stitches ③ Wrong side of the fabric

3. Attach blind hem stitch foot “R”, and lower the presser foot. Position the fabric so the folded edge touches the guide of the presser foot. ① Guide ② Fold

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-35

4. Sew the fabric, keeping the folded edge in contact with the presser foot. ① Needle position

5. Remove the basting stitches and turn over the fabric. ① Wrong side of fabric ② Right side of fabric

Blind hem stitches can not be sewn if the left needle drop point does not catch the fold. If the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric can not be unfolded and the seam appearing on the right side of the fabric will be very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you experience either of these cases, follow the instructions below to solve the problem.

■ If the Needle Does not Catch the Fold

Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing $-$ in the WIDTH display.

■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold

Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing $+$ in the WIDTH display.

3-36 Sewing Utility Stitches

Appliqué

1. Use a temoprary spray adhesive, fabric glue or a bast- ing stitch to attach the appliqué to the fabric. This will keep the fabric from moving during sewing. ① Appliqué ② Fabric glue

2. Select or .

• Adjust the stitch length and width to correspond to the appliqué shape, size, and quality of material (see pages 2-8, 2-9).

3. Attach presser foot “J”. Check that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the appliqué, then begin sew- ing. ① Appliqué material

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-37

① Needle drop position

■ Sewing Sharp Curves

Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing, for an attractive finish to the seam.

Note Placing a lightweight tear away stabilizer beneath stitching area will improve the stitch placement along the edge of the appliqué fabric.

3-38 Sewing Utility Stitches

Shelltuck Stitches

Shelltuck stitches give an attractive appearance of shells along the curve of a collar. This stitch pattern can be used for edging the neckline or sleeves of dresses or blouses.

1. Select 2-04.

2. Increase the upper thread tension for an attractive scallop finish to the shelltuck stitches.

   • If the upper thread tension is too weak, the shelltuck stitches will not scallop.

3. To make rows of shell tuck stitches, fold the fabric in half along the bias.

   • Use a thin fabric.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-39

5. Unfold the fabric, and iron the tucks to one side.

Note To make shell tucks at edge of a collar or neckline follow the pattern's instructions and then use this stitch to make a decorative finish on the collar or neckline.

4. Attach presser foot “J”. Set the needle drop point slightly off the edge of the fabric, and start sewing.

① Needle drop position

3-40 Sewing Utility Stitches

Scallop Stitches

This wave shaped running stitch pattern is called the scallop stitch pattern. Use this stitch pattern to decorate the edges of blouse collars and handkerchiefs or use it as an accent at a hem. A temporary spray adhesive may be necessary for lightweight fabrics. Test sew before sewing on project.

1. Select 2-05 .

2. Attach presser foot “N”. Sew scallop stitches along the edge of the fabric. Do not sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

3. Trim along the seam, making sure not to cut the stitches.

Note Use a seam sealant to secure the edges of the scallop stitches.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-41

Patchwork Stitches

For a decorative look called “Crazy Quilting” the following stitches can be sewn on top of a pressed seam allowance.

1. Select [Image of stitch selection showing "1-29" and "P"], and attach presser foot “J”.

2. Place two pieces of fabric right side together. Sew the fabrics together, then press open the seam allowance. ① Straight stitch ② Seam margins ③ 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) ④ Reverse side

3-42 Sewing Utility Stitches

3. Select a stitch pattern.

4. Place the fabric right side up in the machine. Center the presser foot over the seam, and sew over the seam. ① Right side of the fabric

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-43

Smocking Stitches

Use smocking stitches for decorative sewing on clothes, etc.

1. Select a straight stitch pattern, and attach presser foot "J".

2. Set the stitch length to 4.0, loosen the upper thread tension, and sew the seams, leaving about 10 mm (3/8 inch) between the seams.

① About 10 mm (3/8 inch)

3. Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, and then smooth the gathers by ironing them.

3-44 Sewing Utility Stitches

4. Select or .

5. Sew the spaces between the straight seams.

6. Pull out the straight stitch threads.

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-45

Fagoting

When there is a space between two fabrics, with thread sewn over the space to join the fabrics together, it is called fagoting. Use this stitch when sewing blouses or children's clothes.

1. Baste two pieces of fabric onto thin paper, leaving a space of 4 mm (3/16 inch) between the fabrics. ① 4 mm (3/16 inch) ② Paper ③ Basting stitches

2. Select [icon: 2-11] or [icon: 2-12].

3. Attach presser foot "J". Align the center of the presser foot with the middle of the space between the fabrics and begin sewing. Use a thick thread. ① Basting stitches

4. When sewing is finished, gently tear the paper away.

3-46 Sewing Utility Stitches

Tape or Elastic Attaching

1. Select a straight stitch pattern, and attach presser foot "J". Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm, and loosen the upper thread tension to 2.0.

Note Be sure that neither the automatic reinforcement nor the automatic thread cutting is selected.

2. Sew 2 rows of straight stitches on the right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin thread to gain the necessary gather.

Note Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the balance wheel and pull up the bobbin thread, grasping the top and bobbin thread pull a length of thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is lifted).

3. Place the tape over the gather, and hold it in place with basting pins. ① Tape

Sewing Utility Stitches 3-47

4. Select or .

5. Sew over the tape (or elastic).

CAUTION Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

6. Pull out the straight stitch threads.