Frames and hoops

neat find but did you see all the images? When I visited with Mozilla some were awol.

Q-snaps (on the site under another name) can distort the threads in linen badly.

I have never, ever been able to get a large project on a scroll frame satisfactorily and have always used a hoop, with good results.

Monique in TX

Hoops get a bad rap. They do *not* damage areas already stitched, including knot stitches or ribbon embroidery - though the latter requires more care. If you have a square design or a design that comes up to the edges, you simply can attach pieces of muslin. No sewing machine? Running stitch them onto your main fabric.

The tambour hoop is often ignored and I have used it for any number of projects. It holds a project drum tight or looser, whatever your needs. I've used it for needlepainting, drawn thread, Schwalm, and other embroidery projects. They are wonderful.

Smaller hoops allow you to concentrate in small areas, and also help if you have small hands or shorter fingers. You'll also need one if you want to try raised embroidery because of the detached motifs you'll do.

Dianne

m>> This is an interesting site if you are trying to decide what kind of

That's interesting. I've never had a problem with Q-snaps distorting threads. And like the fact that it's easy to release the tension when you're not stitching. Mostly we see people who find them loose - so we suggest putting a piece of the rubbermaid shelf liner - like rug grip stuff

- in . Have definitely had more issues with people leaving work in tight hoops, and getting definite ridge distortion.

That's too bad. Personally, I'll use a scroll for really large things - sometimes with the suspender gadgets on the sides to provide a bit more uniform tension. Or, Q-snaps and move things.

For canvas work that is going to be on for a while, I use Evertite stretchers - which can be adjusted without removing the piece.

I really hate to see is linen tacked or stapled onto canvas stretchers.IME, almost everyone who does that stretches the linen so taut that it isdistorted, fibers pulled open. The effect is that after they've stitched,and remove it, the areas that aren't stitched, the fabric will relax. Thismeans that in framing, there are big ripples in the unstitched area (thestitching has kept the distorted threads pulled taut together), and is trulya headache for the framer. What ends up is that the now unstitched groundlinen becomes pulled really taut to balance out any ripples, and you'll seethe backing thru it - as the fabric is so opened. It's interesting how we all have different experiences.

Ellice

I've always stapled, or used thumb tacks, on the side edges of needlepoint canvas. I like it drum tight and find that's the only way to keep it that way. I've never had it ripple or stretch or anything of the sort.

I don't do that with linen, but I nearly always do it with mono canvas.

Lucille

>

I've been using Q-snaps since they came out years ago. I have never had a problem with linen, or any other fabric distorting. I love the control that I have with them...I can always get just the amount of tension that I want. IMHO

just me, Cathy from KY in CA

*snip*

I'm with you about the canvas. It definitely needs to be taut. I do the same as you. Lucille, for the most part. I only use the Evertites with long-term things, or pieces when I think the stitches will cause the canvas to loosen much.. The Evertites have a set screw mechanism in the corners so you can tighten the canvas by just slightly stretching the frame - which is much more caonvenient than removing and replacing tacks. Linen - the fabric will just distort easily, same as when pulling it tooo tightly through a hoop - but at least with a hoop you can remove it when not working. If the linen fabric is stapled on, it's on there.

ellice