hand-finishing stitches

Since you are replacing a sewing machine with hand stitching, there are three approaches:

  1. Tiny running stitch. Not very sturdy, but you could make it double running if the cloth is easy to count.
  2. Back stitching, which makes a stem stitch on the reverse side.

  1. Stem stitch, which makes a back stitch on the reverse side.

I'm going to assume you know that you will have to clip your curves anc corners to make the stocking smooth when you turn it right side out.

Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski
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I'm looking *way* ahead to when I get done stitching the designs on Christmas stockings for my family. Can nun's stitch be modified to work on a curve or will simple backstitch be strong and locking enough for attaching the backing fabric to the stocking front? Would some other stitch work better? The instructions generally assume one will use a sewing machine for finishing; I will not. The stockings will be used so must be able to bear some weight. I use backstitch on ornies but those only have to hold fiberfill--no chocolate!

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

I'd suggest considering a chain stitch (a very small one) and then using the outer loop of it as the base from which to whip stitch the back of the stocking in place.

Kind of time-consuming to do, but offers interesting possibilities for additional embellishment along the edge.

Phyllis Maurer

Reply to
Phylis Maurer

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

This is what I do for ornaments, and I don't see why it wouldn't work for a stocking. And, even if you just work it plain, it looks pretty cool.

Using the weave of the fabric to make the stitches even and in the same (mirror-imaged) positions on both pieces, work a chain stitch from the opening, around the stocking and back to the other side of the opening. Fudge around the curves if you have to, and don't work the opening; turn down a hem or nun's stitch it, and/or sew in a lining, after everything's put together. Clip and turn the edges to the back of the work and place the two stocking pieces together, right sides out. If you've been careful enough, the loops of the chain stitching should line up on the two pieces. Anchor a thread - and it doesn't have to match the chain stitching - at one end of the opening and whip the chain stitches together all the way around.

If the chain stitches didn't line up, use the same thread to whip, and fudge as you need to. As long as the fiber is the same, it won't be particularly visible unless you _really_ messed up.

You could also do double Cordovan lacing, which is sort of like Montenegran stitch and gives a braided effect, or you can whip the chain stitches twice (same or different fiber). Any fancy linear stitch (simple cross and all the long-arm cross variations, another chain stitch worked through the existing ones, double running through the chains in different fibers, Palestrina knots, etc., etc., etc.) can be used, in fact. Most of these will be stronger than just whipping once, and, as Phyllis said, have interesting embellishment possibilities, especially in the use of different fibers. And I very often add a bead at every second chain stitch, which creates a neat 'picot' edge.

HTH.

-- Emc^2

Reply to
elizabeth_mccrary

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

I learned that tip about clipping curves after I finished the kids stockings. I was kind of frustrated that the final stockings had slight wrinkles in them when I turned it right side out and I didn't know what I had done wrong. Now that I know I guess I could go back and try to fix them. If I get motivated. They're done now and and I'd have to cut the lining to get to where the cuts would go and whip stitch the lining back up. They aren't that bad the way they are. At this point I've accepted their imperfections and the kids have used them for years as they are. Oh well. -Evelyn

Reply to
Evelyn M

You can still do the same thing. Just make dots along the sewing line on the backing fabric for each stitch to match the front, and use those to guide your stitches.

You might want to reconsider using felt, though, if durability is in question. Felt does not hold up well for the long haul (and a stocking made for a toddler is likely to be used for a while); it stretches, pulls holes where the needle went through in sewing, and changes color if it's the modern synthetic-fibers-held-together-with-glue kind. If you're concerned with the effects of weight inside the stocking, felt is not your friend. Use a plain woven fabric, or even an unworked piece of the same as the front, instead.

-- Emc^2 (who is slowly replacing some banners for her church that were done with felt. A crying shame, too, because the designs are great, but the felt is simply worn out, just from hanging.)

Reply to
elizabeth_mccrary

Wool felt doesn't have these problems. :-) You said you were referring to "modern synthetic et al", but I thought I'd throw in the word "wool" for clarification on something that would be very long lived. Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Diane,

Even wool felt (which doesn't have the fading / color shift problems) stretches and pulls holes open, plus you've got the moth problem...

Synthetic felt is held together with glue. Wool felt is held together by the scales of the wool fiber being opened by heat and moisture, and then allowed to close up around the other strands. Neither construction is as stable as woven fabric. I will allow that synthetic is worse, and that wool felt in a benign application will last (absent the moths) for a good long time, but it still wouldn't be my choice where I was concerned with weight-bearing and longevity. For that, I'd go with a sturdy woven linen.

FWIW, some of the banners I'm replacing are wool felt. The holes hanging has pulled in them are as bad or worse than the synthetic, and they are at least a couple of inches narrower in the middle (where they have stretched in the length) than they are at the ends, where the hanging rods have kept the width stable. And, yes, they have moth damage, too.

-- Emc^2

Reply to
elizabeth_mccrary

I wonder if there are differences of quality in wool felt?

Anyway, I stand corrected. :-) Dianne

elizabeth snipped-for-privacy@uclalumni.net wrote:

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

We've got an all felt stocking which is over 30 years old and hasn't pulled as far as I can tell. I don't care much about fading since this piece will be facing the wall. Upon examination, I think my biggest concern will be the size of the piece; I don't think the felt is big enough to be cut according to the instructions so I might have to come up with a substitute in any case.

I certa> Diane,

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

I usually use a good quality plain woven cotton fabric. A pillowcase would probably provide enough fabric to do the lining and the back of the stocking. Many fabric stores will be putting their Christmas prints on sale next month, as well.

-- Jenn Ridley : snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net WIP: Water Lilies, Honey I Shrunk the Heart, Rose Trio, Emperor's Coat II, Carousel Most recently Finished: Be Mine, Romance, Halloween Circle Stitching log:

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Reply to
Jenn Ridley

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