Waste Canvas

I am new to cross sttich and feel dumb asking this but I was wondering when you use waste canvas on a garment do you still use a hoop ?...it seems so stiff .....any hints from anyone ?

Thanks Cheryl

Reply to
MICHAEL C MARSYADA
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Welcome!

I always use a hoop, regardless. I don't like working in-hand, but you may find that those who work in-hand outnumber those of us working with hoops. I even use a largish embroidery hoop to do my hand quilting.

I've been stitching for 22 years and only this year did someone (Diane) tell me to wrap the bottom hoop. I followed this instruction, and it has made a good bit of difference for me in distortion of the fabric.

Hope you find this group helpful for you!

Reply to
lizard-gumbo

Hi Cheryl, I almost always use a hoop or Q-Snaps when working with waste canvas (wc) assuming you are working on a garment and not one of the heavy cloth tote bags or aprons. I think it makes it easier to deal with all the fabric. I use waste canvas that is about 2" bigger than the stitched design and then use a hoop or whatever that is just a bit bigger than the waste canvas. Could you please tell us what you are working on? Also, if you are interested, Dianne has my Waste Canvas Info sheet posted at her website. I *think* the web-addy is

formatting link
-- it's the spelling of the shoppe I'm not certain of!! Anyway, there are a number of people here who do waste canvas so you should be able to get a lot of helpful info. CiaoMeow >^;;^<

Reply to
Tia Mary

Paging Tia Mary, Goddess of Waste Canvas!

Reply to
Karen C - California

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

Thank You so much for the quick replies. I am going to work on a piece of either fleece or a velour that I want to make into a pillow...so it is actuall just a loose piece of fabric. I am going to ask another question...I got a reply from Brenda (Thank You too Brenda!) that says she uses non-fusible interfacing on the back also...do you all do that as well ? The instructions I have do not call for that....but like I said I am a newbie to this .

Thanks So Much Cheryl

Reply to
MICHAEL C MARSYADA

If you are working on *any* type of knit fabric -- be it garment or just a loose piece of fabric -- it's much easier if you use some sort of backing. Some people use a fusible but I use lightweight woven fabric. I like it even better than any of the inner facings. I usually use leftover muslin from quilting projects. Whether you work in hand or with the fabric in a hoop, the knit fabric WILL pull because that's what knits are supposed to do. Having some sort of backing helps to stabilize the knit fabric and makes it easier to stitch on. I can't work in hand because I have tendonitis and it starts to pain me after about 10 minutes. Also, I like putting my work (which is usually a garment but not always) into a hoop so that I can gather the garment up around the hoop to keep all the fabric out of the way of my stitching hand. If you are more used to stitching one way or the other, that's probably the way you will prefer to stitch with waste canvas. As with most stitching, whatever works best for you is what IS best for you :-). Except for the backing on the knits -- trust me, it's a whole lot easier -- ask me how I know -- LOLOL! CiaoMeow >^;;^<

Reply to
Tia Mary

Or, you can wrap the top hoop, or you can wrap both. :-) Different cultures/countries do it differently.

I followed this instruction, and it

Glad it's working for you! Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Some needleworkers insist on using a backing of some sort on the reverse side of the fabric, other needleworkers only use it in certain circumstances (main ground fabric is too flimsy to hold the embroidery), or not at all.

I wouldn't think a backing fabric would be necessary for either fleece or velous, since these materials do not stretch . . . which is another reason to use a backing fabric such as light-weight pellon or muslin.

Dianne

MICHAEL C MARSYADA wrote:

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Hint for removing waste canvas after you are done stitching:

Get it good and damp! It makes the sizing (glue) holding the canvas together break down, and a LOT easier to pull out!

I use needlenose pliers to pull the strands.

Caryn

Reply to
crzy4xst

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

But, But, Dianne -- BOTH of those fabrics do stretch?!?!? Are we talking about the same fabrics? To me, fleece means some brand of "polar fleece" and it stretches a lot in one direction and very little in the other but it does stretch. Velour to me is a knit fabric and also stretches (I have a *very* old velour jogging suit and just went to double check). Now that I think about it, I'm think I remember working on a woven velvet type of fabric ages ago that was called velour -- lots of things like towels that have a heavily napped surface are often called "velour". Lately, tho' it has all been a knit. I'm sitting here scratching my head wondering what if we are both talking about the same stuff. CiaoMeow >^;;^<

Reply to
Tia Mary

Personally, I thoroughly wash & dry the item if possible (working on fabrics like velvet precludes this) and then remove the threads. I have tried tweezers, both regular and locking, and have found TEETH (the ones in my mouth) to be the best thing yet -- LOLOL! CiaoMeow >^;;^<

Reply to
Tia Mary

I've embroidered on "polar" fleece and haven't found the knit to interfere so that I'd need a backing. But maybe because I'm used to embroidering and can "handle" the fabric.

I suppose if you're doing a lot of satin stitching, a backing (lightweight) might provide some safety.

I Googled "velour" and this definition (out of many similar) Fibre: Cotton, wool, or spun rayon. Weave: Thick, plush pile, with a plain or satin ground, or sometimes knitted.

I was def> Dianne Lewandowski wrote:

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Do you do counted XS using waste canvas on knits? That's when I find it best to use a backing. I always put my knit fabric stuff in a hoop of some sort and there's no way that works unless I have basted some sort of woven fabric to the back of the piece. I have embroidered (not XS) names, etc. on polar fleece and loads of other stuff without using a backing and had no problem. Probably, like you, I am used to it and can handle the fabric. It's the XS stuff done using waste canvas that I like to have a backing. The designs usually have several areas that are densely stitched and I just find it easier with a backing. CiaoMeow >^;;^<

Reply to
Tia Mary

Ahhhh, cross stitch. Wasn't thinking. Perhaps you are correct. I've only worked freehand. Indeed, "Inspirations" had a lovely wool-knit baby sweater with surface embroidery. The embroidery was worked on waste canvas . . . the waste canvas being a way to stabilize the knit ground and a place to transfer the design (if I remember that part correctly). Knowing this, I can't imagine why a backing would be necessary, since the waste canvas - itself - is a deliberate stabilizer.

Interesting that cross stitching would require TWO stiffeners/stabilizers on a knit ground.

Dianne

Tia Mary wrote:

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

I think the benefit is mostly for the backside and usually on T-shirts. Most T-shirt knit is so flimsy that it really does need two stabilizers -- one on the front and one on the back. Sweatshirts aren't as flimsy but the nap on the inside of sweatshirts can be pulled through to the front if you aren't careful! I've gotten so used to having a woven fabric on the inside that I would probably use it even on a heavy knit sweater. What I can't imagine using is waste canvas as a means to transfer the design to be embroidered! It's usually extremely stiff, even the good stuff. I would probably use a really heavy water soluble stabilizer, draw my design on that and then do the stitching. The stuff Solvy makes disappears with a quick rinse in cool water. I suppose if you had a knit that absolutely could not get wet you would have to use something like waste canvas but in that case, I would probably use an even weave instead! CiaoMeow >^;;^<

Reply to
Tia Mary

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