deep water glaze effect wanted

Hello Stephen ---

...i d>I would like to create a deep water glaze effect as I am doing a clay

Interesting work. You ought to say what clay and cone you are firing. There are lots of glazes out there. By deep water effect do you mean a transparent dark blue? Guess I ought to take a look at Monet gardens. Crystal

i think you might want to try rutile based glazes for a watery affect. they seeme especially great when used OVER iron based glazes too. a "jensen blue" over "tenmoku" might do what you want. i ususally buy my glazes dry-premixed from aardvark in santa ana, but get the same-similar from laguna clay at times too. (a more USA nation wide source)

i do cone 10 reduction glazing on stoneware &/or porcelain.

steve

steve graber

I suppose I should have mentioned I'm in the UK ! The dollar is quite weak at the moment so that's good. Thanks though. I'll have to find out what clay I use and temps. I just use the facilities at the local Adult Education. I leave all that to them.

I use Duncan based colours for the main colours.

Thanks

Stephen

in article bu8h6n$prq$1$ snipped-for-privacy@news.demon.co.uk, ¬Stephen Hammond at snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote on 1/16/04 5:16 AM:

In the area of the pond use a wash of cobalt sulphate. Make a mixture by volume 12/1 water/sulphate. Pretend you are doing a water color (by the way Monet's gardens aren' deep water) on the green dry clay of the pond. Draw the brush areas first with a pencil because you won't be able to see the sulphate when dry. Do various layers but leave uncovered areas as well for light reflections. 3/4 coats a deep blue.

Then glaze that area with clear.

If you want greenery use copper sulphate (oxidation firing) for green. Same mixture but you will need more layers to get a strong green.

Marty

I'm going to use the colours at

Oh well guess it can't be done

Stephen

I'm not sure what you mean by "Deep Glaze". Do you mean that you see thru it to the bottom? As if it were water in a pond? If that's what you mean I have an idea. After your piece is done and the pond is glazed blue you can cut a piece of glass that fits the pond. It would help, I think, if the pond was indented as deep as the thickness of the glass. Refire the piece to the glass melting point which is 1300 degrees F (approx 704C according to my converter). I saw this done on a show by a potter that combines clay with glass. You may have to fire above that temperature to make it stick or depending on how thick the glass I'm not sure. You might want to do a little test piece and see how it works for you. I've never done it but it sounded interesting to me. I may try it one day. I hope this helps and let me know if it works for you. Good luck, Crystal

One thing to watch out for here is that the glass may not have the same expansion rate as the clay body. When I've tried this method, melting a marble on top of a flat piece, the glass had big cracks afterward. I liked the effect in what I was doing, but it might not make a very convincing "water".

My cracking might be because it was quite thick (1/8 inch or so), so you may be OK with thinner glass. Or you may have to try to match expansion rates somehow.

How about a thick clear glaze over a blue stain? Maybe add just a hint of copper or cobalt to the glaze. Or you can paint copper sulphate solution over the dry clear glaze, which allows you to have an uneven blue-green mottling with some depth that might help simulate water. I've used this to get greenish mottling on blue glazes, but never actually tried to ,ake it look like water.

Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis