Is there something similar to a Glaze Book for Dummies? I am not able to find a class that specifically addresses glazes and very much want to learn more about making them. I am curious about underglazing right now but know precious little about the how- to aspect. And Mason stains? What are they used for specifically? See why I need a book for Dummies?
Glaze Book for Dummies?
Sep 11, 2003
13 Replies
If you are doing cone6 I would suggest Ron Roy and John Hesselbreth (SP?) Mastering Cone 6 Glazes book. It is available from their web site as well as from pottery suppliers. I tells you in plain English what the parts of the glaze are and what they do. Then there are several recipes included to start from. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Penni Stoddart of Penelope's Pots Full Time Education Assistant, Part Time Potter
Sometimes we just need to remember what the rules of life really are... You need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the duct tape.
There's some great potters books listed at
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- check thecustomer reviews for the books on Amazon's web site by"clicking-through" from there.How this helps.
I just bought that book, but haven't seen them address stains or much at all on underglazing. Of course, I've been known to overlook things before. I think I am feeling so in the dark because I am a very visual person and would greatly benefit from a class covering all different ways of glazing. I was told that there aren't any classes because it's really all so simple. That REALLY makes me feel D-U-M-B.
Thank you. I'll check it out.
Whoever told you that clearly doesn't understand. . . Glazes are one of the more technical aspects of pottery and, once you get a handle on some of the technical aspects, the aesthetics of glazing is very challenging.
I'd suggest going to your local library and/or bookstore and checking out a number of general pottery books. "Clay and Glazes for the Pottery" by Rhodes/Hopper is an excellant reference, but may be more technical than you want at this point. "The Craft and Art of Clay" by Peterson might be a good choice, but it may be out of print. I think Peterson may have a new book out.
After doing a little reading, do some experienting. FInd a clear or white glaze that works for you and try adding stains in different amounts. Make some test tiles and test. Try one glaze over another. Cover some of your test with a clear glaze and see if the decoration underneath stays sharp or if it bleeds into the clear glaze. Etc., etc., etc.
deg
deg
Thank you, Deg. I just purchased the Rhodes/Hopper book and am looking through an old Chappell book. Things are beginning to make some sense. I know things will begin to fall into place once I get a fair foundation of knowledge built.
I have a question on using oxides as a stain. Say I want to paint a simple design on a mug. If I understand correctly, I can mix red oxide, for example, with enough water to make a paintable paste and then apply my design, right? If I am not heavy handed, I shouldn't have a problem with it running, right? Once it's dry I could then apply a clear or transparent glaze over all? With answers to these question I think I may actually be off and runnin'! Then I'll play with a white base and different colorants. Thanks so your help and for not laughing at my total ignorance.
My guess is that if you paint with a paste of straight iron oxide and water, you won't get the effect you want - but maybe you will. Give it a try. Sometimes glazes won't adhere properly to heavy oxide coatings and will "crawl". Also try mixing a tablespoon of iron oxide with maybe 1/4 cup of slip made from the clay you are using. And try a fairly watery mix of iron oxide and water. And try mixing a tablespoon of iron oxide into 1/4 cup of the glaze you are going to cover it all with. Some oxides (especially cobalt) are stronger (and more expensive) than others, so smaller amounts would be appropriate. For example, 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon of cobalt would probably be sufficent to color a 1/4 cup of your clear glaze a rich blue. A teaspoon of copper carb would likely give you a strong green.
You haven't mentioned what cone or atmosphere you are firing with, but iron oxide can act as a flux and make your glaze more fluid, especially in a reduction atmosphere (i.e. a fuel fired kiln). If you're concerned about glaze runs, you can always fire pieces on a pancake of clay to protect your kiln shelves.
deg
If you can find a copy, The Potters' Pallet is a rather useful book in the area you are addressing. one of the authors is named Ogden. Can't remember any more; I lent my copy and guess what: it's vanished!
Steve
In article , GaSeku writes
Thank you Steve. I'll keep my eyes open for it. Sorry your "vanished". I never loan my books anymore. My sister gave me a bookmark that says, "Neither a borrower nor a lender be"!
Thanks so much, deg! You've helped A LOT! Oh, I fire at cone 5 and 6 in an electric kiln.
In article , Steve Mills writes
'The Potter's Palette' is by Christine Constant and Steve Ogden Published by Apple Press, London in 1996 ISBN 1-85076-723-8
I agree it's a useful book.
And apropos the book theft, here's a bit from a poem by Robert Service, called 'Book Borrower':
'But worst of all I hate those crooks (May hell-fires burn them!) Who beg the loan of cherished books And don't return them.
My books are tendrils of myself No shears can sever . . . May he who rapes one from my shelf Be damned forever.'
I slip a copy of this poem in any book I lend . . . but it doesn't always work!
Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. UK
Steve, I found the book on Amazon.com and ordered it this morning. Thank you! Gaye
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