Re: Kiln not heating up as much any more

"Wendy Cyrenne" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@enews1.newsguy.com:

Hello all. I have an old Cress Electric kiln which I purchased a year > ago. At first I had no problem getting to Cone 6 (which is the maximum > recommended for that kiln). Now it seems to take forever to get to > that temperature. > > I read in a book that the elements could be wearing out. Is that > possible? I thought either electrical elements worked or they didn't. > I was thinking of replacing the elements, but would like to hear > whether anyone out there has had this problem and how did you fix it. > > Thanks. > > Wendy > > >

You may find that one of your elements has broken. Don't despair, repair.

Turn you kiln on for a little while so that the elements heat up. Turn the power off at the wall or unplug your kiln. Open the kiln and then touch each element with a damp sponge. (I use my sponge on a stick that I use in my pots). The elements and circuit that is okay will sizzle when touched by the wet sponge, the one or circuit that is broken won't.

When the kiln has cooled down you can join the broken elements together and you will be away again.

John W

Reply to
Uncle John
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In article , Wendy Cyrenne writes

In my experience, elements *do* get tired. I replace mine about once every eighteen months, and this, together with a good spray of ITC 100, certainly gives the kiln a shot in the arm.

Actually another reason for replacing the element (singular: a long single one) is that it begins to sag, and I don't like big loops of Kanthal dangling into the kiln.

I've never heard of joining broken elements: how do you do it?

Regards

Jake Loddington POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. UK

Reply to
Jake Loddington

[Before you rip out your elements, make sure it's not a bad switch that's causing the problem. The switches are easier and cheaper to replace, and they go bad more frequently. Cress has replacement switches, and they come with instructions on how to do the repair. See
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formore info.] Andrew Werby
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Reply to
Andrew Werby

With great difficulty ............ used elements are as brittle as hell .......... and also poking wet sponges into the kiln is dangerous.

Depending on the type of kiln the could be more than one circuit.

Gently poke a small peice of tissue paper (but do not touch) on all the element levels, turn on for 20 mins or so ............. no burnt tissue paper = broken element wire circuit, also check the wiring and switches as well... ALSO, but you did not say, if you fire with a controller, check that as well.

Keep damp sponges out of the way!!

Reply to
AndWhyNot

I test elements by firing on *Full* for 10 minutes, turning off the power at the main, opening the lid, and touching each element with a long spill or wand made out of newspaper. If it smoulders the element is OK, if not it ain't! Elements oxidise over time, and with each firing the layer of oxide increases and the element core decreases, rendering them increasingly inefficient. If you need to move element coils, heat them up to red heat with a small blow torch and re-position them with a pair of snipe-nosed pliers (long thin ones!). I've found hooking broken element ends together is not always effective as they can move and then arc and burn out worse. New is cheaper in the long run.

Steve Bath UK

In article , AndWhyNot writes

Reply to
Steve Mills

Why not just open the lid and watch the elements heat up? Any one that stays dark is faulty, or its connections are. You would only need to leave the kiln on until the working elements start to glow a little, and then you would see the whole situation at one glance. No need for poking things onto fragile Kanthal.

Bob Masta dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis Shareware from Interstellar Research

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Bob Masta

Reply to
Eddie Daughton

In article , Bob Masta writes

In the UK all kiln lids and doors have a safety switch which shuts off power when they are opened unless they are VERY old!

Steve

Reply to
Steve Mills

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