Red glaze

The following is a very good glaze when fired to 1265'C on white stoneware
in an electric kiln. I use it all the time, its very stable does not run
when soaked for 18 minutes.
Potash Feldspar 44
Quartz 14
Bone Ash 14
Talc 10
A.K. Ball Clay 8
H.V Ball Clay 5
Lithium Carbonate 3
Bentonite 2
______________ 100%
Plus;
Red Iron Oxide 11
Reply to
Kevin Baldwin
I tried that glaze but I didn't have A.K. Ball Clay or H.V. Ball Clay so I used 13% OM4 and I tried it on a buff clay. I did not get the red color that I wanted. It was brown. Do you think it was due to substituting the ball clay or because of the clay body I used? The picture in the book showed a deep red with black mottling which was beautiful. I didn't get that. Also can you tell me what cone that you fire it too? I tried fireing it to several different cone temperatures. All came out brown. Thanks, CNB
| The following is a very good glaze when fired to 1265'C on white stoneware | in an electric kiln. I use it all the time, its very stable does not run | when soaked for 18 minutes. | | Potash Feldspar 44 | Quartz 14 | Bone Ash 14 | Talc 10 | A.K. Ball Clay 8 | H.V Ball Clay 5 | Lithium Carbonate 3 | Bentonite 2 | ______________ 100% | Plus; | Red Iron Oxide 11 | | |
Reply to
CNB
What iron did you use? For oxidation firings it has been our experience that you need to use Special (Spanish) red iron oxide... Otherwise as you say you get a brown (maybe a red on the inside of the pot). DKat
Reply to
dkat
I used "Rio" red iron oxide. Is that the same thing? What cone do you fire it to? Crystal
| What iron did you use? For oxidation firings it has been our experience | that you need to use Special (Spanish) red iron oxide... Otherwise as you | say you get a brown (maybe a red on the inside of the pot). DKat |
Reply to
CNB
Thanks for the picture. That is exactly the color I want to come up with. Crystal
| I know I'm not supposed to send pictures on this newsgroup but here goes. | This was the original test firing I did and the result. The blue and green | tests have different recipes. A point to note when the GREEN is applied over | the RED you get a mottled BLUE probably because of the rutile in the green | glaze. | | Regards | | Kevin. | | |
| > What iron did you use? For oxidation firings it has been our experience | > that you need to use Special (Spanish) red iron oxide... Otherwise as you | > say you get a brown (maybe a red on the inside of the pot). DKat | >
| > > I tried that glaze but I didn't have A.K. Ball Clay or H.V. Ball Clay so | I | > > used 13% OM4 and I tried it on a buff clay. I did not get the red color | > that | > > I wanted. It was brown. Do you think it was due to substituting the ball | > > clay or because of the clay body I used? The picture in the book showed | a | > > deep red with black mottling which was beautiful. I didn't get that. | Also | > > can you tell me what cone that you fire it too? I tried fireing it to | > > several different cone temperatures. All came out brown. | > > Thanks, | > > CNB | > >
Reply to
CNB
We fire to cone six. The only two iron oxides that I have known of for getting red in an oxidation firing are "Spanish" and "Special". I don't know about "Rio". We rarely get anything as nice as what was posted though (I do wish this country would move into the 21st century so we could post pictures freely - that was a real treat to see those samples - I shouldn't rant about how most of S Korea is on fast internet connections of one form or another and the U.S. only has a small part of it connections not still on modems...)
Reply to
dkat
There are a couple of things that may have made the difference. Did you use real bone ash or synthetic? Also, these oxidation saturated iron glazes have to be applied thickly! Usually, refiring the piece in a bisque firing will bring out the red. This also works with high fired shinos. And, lastly, use the more expensive iron oxide -- Spanish or even better the 95% Red Iron Oxide which is more expensive, but would give you a better chance of getting what you want. You can find it on line if your local dealer doesn't carry it.
Regards, June
formatting link
Reply to
ShantiP1
I hestitate to ask but since you shared the red can you share the green? Thanks in any case
Reply to
D Kat
Hi D Kat, No problem the green is; Potash Feldspar 60 Dolomite 20 Quartz 15 China clay 5 Total 100% Plus; Rutile 6 Copper Carbonate 1 Bentonite 1
This has to be applied thicker than the red otherwise the green becomes a bit "wishy-washy" ( love the technical terms) and translucent. But fired to cone 9 (1265'C) and soak for 15 mins. the ramp rate for firing is 200'C/Hr to 900'C then 100'C/Hr to 1265'C
Hope this helps Regards
Kevin.
Reply to
Kevin Baldwin
I used synthetic bone ash because that's what my supplier gave me when I asked for bone ash. Should I should have used real bone ash? I did try re-firing in bisque but that didn't work. I tried slow firing up and I tried slow firing down. I will check my iron oxide today with my supplier today. I have RIO and I don't think that is the same but they do have Spanish Red. Thanks, Crystal
| There are a couple of things that may have made the difference. Did you use | real bone ash or synthetic? Also, these oxidation saturated iron glazes have to | be applied thickly! | Usually, refiring the piece in a bisque firing will bring out the red. This | also works with high fired shinos. | And, lastly, use the more expensive iron oxide -- Spanish or even better the | 95% Red Iron Oxide which is more expensive, but would give you a better chance | of getting what you want. You can find it on line if your local dealer doesn't | carry it. | | Regards, | June |
formatting link
Reply to
CNB
Thanks for the other recipe and especially your ramp schedule. I'm assuming that this is the same ramp schedule you use for the red glaze. I've but the ramp schedule and the pic in my glaze program. Today I'm calling my supplier and ask questions about the ingredients I used in my glaze. Crystal
| Hi D Kat, | No problem the green is; | Potash Feldspar 60 | Dolomite 20 | Quartz 15 | China clay 5 | Total 100% | Plus; | Rutile 6 | Copper Carbonate 1 | Bentonite 1 | | This has to be applied thicker than the red otherwise the green becomes a | bit "wishy-washy" ( love the technical terms) and translucent. But fired to | cone 9 (1265'C) and soak for 15 mins. the ramp rate for firing is 200'C/Hr | to 900'C then 100'C/Hr to 1265'C | | Hope this helps | Regards | | Kevin.
Reply to
CNB
If I get half the red of Kevin's I'll be happy. Maybe if you follow his firing schedule you would get more red? If you have a picture of the result you get at cone 6 I would love to see it. You could send it directly to me. I have a couple internet potter friends who exchange pictures with me directly. Crystal
| We fire to cone six. The only two iron oxides that I have known of for | getting red in an oxidation firing are "Spanish" and "Special". I don't | know about "Rio". We rarely get anything as nice as what was posted though | (I do wish this country would move into the 21st century so we could post | pictures freely - that was a real treat to see those samples - I shouldn't | rant about how most of S Korea is on fast internet connections of one form | or another and the U.S. only has a small part of it connections not still on | modems...)
Reply to
CNB
I will try getting some pictures that are usable by this weekend and send them. As I said, at best our red is an earthy red to brown and the glaze uses Gertsley Borate (you can easily find it under Randy's Red or the like in the Clayart archives I believe).
formatting link

Reply to
dkat
Oh, I'm sorry. I was misunderstanding your post. I thought you were using the SAME glaze recipe as Kevin's. I had tested the exact same recipe as Kevin is using and couldn't get the results he got. I have the recipe for Randy's red although I have not tried it. I saved a picture that I found to my computer and linked it with my glaze calculater. (Not that I know how to use the calculation part but I use it to save all my recipies.) I'm glad my memory is jogged of that recipe. It is also in cone 6 which is more my firing range. Thanks, Crystal
| I will try getting some pictures that are usable by this weekend and send | them. As I said, at best our red is an earthy red to brown and the glaze | uses Gertsley Borate (you can easily find it under Randy's Red or the like | in the Clayart archives I believe). | |
formatting link
|
formatting link
||
Reply to
CNB
I called my supplier after reading all of your posts and messages to me. They agreed it is most likely the Red Iron Oxide that I used that is causing the problem with the color. I was using Rio but I now have Spanish Red iron oxide on order. I will retest the recipe Kevin is using and also try Randy's Red (DKat thanks for reminding me about Randy's Red.) And everyone... it's nice to get all the extra information that is passed on. For example thickness applications, firing schedules, etc. Every bit helps, Much appreciation, Crystal
Reply to
CNB

Site Timeline Threads

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.